I’m giving up.

Jerett83 · Jul 17, 2018

FWIW I tested my nitrates for the first time in about a year and a half back at Christmas time with an API kit I bought when I cycled my tank and got a reading or 160+, freaked out and bought a salifert kit to double check and got a reading of 20. Everything in the tank is happy and no algae so I tossed the API and Im going with the salifert reading.

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

What about this test kit? Better than API??

Reefpuck · Jul 17, 2018

Gaines69 said:
What about this test kit? Better than API??

In my opinion...yes. I've used both for many years.

CeeGee · Jul 17, 2018

Red Sea kits (and I used the pro ones) give me very different readings than my saliferts and I mean substantially different so I no longer use them.

I use a refractometer for salinity, Hanna alk checker and salifert for everything else. Nitrate test kits are pretty terrible overall the salifert version seems ok. Wish someone would make a better kit for nitrate.

What is your magnesium levels? If those aren’t correct you will always struggle with alk and cal.

I don’t really see any coral in your tank. If you don’t have any stony corals sucking up alkalinity I wouldn’t expect it to drop.

You seem to be at a point where you really need to slow down and get a grip on the basics before moving forward. Water changes won’t do much to drop your parameters if you are adding the same high parameters back to the tank.

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

CeeGee said:
Red Sea kits (and I used the pro ones) give me very different readings than my saliferts and I mean substantially different so I no longer use them.

I use a refractometer for salinity, Hanna alk checker and salifert for everything else. Nitrate test kits are pretty terrible overall the salifert version seems ok. Wish someone would make a better kit for nitrate.

What is your magnesium levels? If those aren’t correct you will always struggle with alk and cal.

I don’t really see any coral in your tank. If you don’t have any stony corals sucking up alkalinity I wouldn’t expect it to drop.

You seem to be at a point where you really need to slow down and get a grip on the basics before moving forward. Water changes won’t do much to drop your parameters if you are adding the same high parameters back to the tank.

Well I’m sure I’m not the first person to use API test kits. That’s what all the lfs carry and use. Also, how am I adding the high parameters back to the tank? I have been told by several people and have read several things online that all say that water changes were something I needed to do to get levels back in check. I have not tested for magnesium because I have a FOWLR tank and just started considering adding a few soft corals. And I am trying to get a grip on the basics. That’s why I’m doing research and asking questions here. I’m just a little overwhelmed and confused.

Brew12 · Jul 17, 2018

Gaines69 said:
Well I’m sure I’m not the first person to use API test kits.

I don't have an issue with API tests. They aren't my preference, but I don't find them that bad. In fact, I think their calcium test is very good. I do prefer the Salifert and Red Sea products for most tests and do find them more repeatable but you can make API work.

Gaines69 said:
Also, how am I adding the high parameters back to the tank?

I would recommend measuring your freshly mixed salt. It's possible that you have a bad batch.

Another possibility is that your salinity is too high and you are concentrating your tank water. How do you measure your salinity?

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

Brew12 said:
I don't have an issue with API tests. They aren't my preference, but I don't find them that bad. In fact, I think their calcium test is very good. I do prefer the Salifert and Red Sea products for most tests and do find them more repeatable but you can make API work.

I would recommend measuring your freshly mixed salt. It's possible that you have a bad batch.

Another possibility is that your salinity is too high and you are concentrating your tank water. How do you measure your salinity?

My calcium stayed between 400-520. I will be testing my water tonight. API salinity test. I have the master test kit. I have never dosed anything because I only have a FOWLR tank. I just purchased a sea whip a few weeks ago and it’s doing fine.

Brew12 · Jul 17, 2018

Gaines69 said:
API salinity test.

Is it a swing arm hydrometer or a refractometer? I'm not familiar with API's salinity testing equipment.

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

Brew12 said:
Is it a swing arm hydrometer or a refractometer? I'm not familiar with API's salinity testing equipment.

Sorry I was talking calcium. Salinity is 1 023-1.025. Swing arm. I have two different ones and they read the same.

Brew12 · Jul 17, 2018

Gaines69 said:
Sorry I was talking calcium. Salinity is 1 023-1.025. Swing arm. I have two different ones and they read the same.

Using two every time should help, but I wouldn't use them long term. I highly recommend investing in one of these (or similar) if you intend to grow coral.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/refr...-with-calibration-fluid-bulk-reef-supply.html

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

Brew12 said:
Using two every time should help, but I wouldn't use them long term. I highly recommend investing in one of these (or similar) if you intend to grow coral.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/refr...-with-calibration-fluid-bulk-reef-supply.html

Oh one is in the plans. Just waiting on extra funds. I do keep the swing arms very clean. I soak in vinegar and rinse really well after every use. My friend has a refractometer and told me where they got theirs. Thanks for the info and sorry about the confusion with calcium and salinity. I was having a blond moment. Lol

Brew12 · Jul 17, 2018

Gaines69 said:
Oh one is on the plans. Just waiting on extra funds. I do keep the swing arms very clean. I soak in vinegar and rinse really well after every use. My friend has a refractometer and told me where they got theirs. Thanks for the info and sorry about the confusion with calcium and salinity. I was having a blond moment. Lol

Happens to us all!

Alfrareef · Jul 17, 2018

Gaines69 said:
Oh one is in the plans. Just waiting on extra funds. I do keep the swing arms very clean. I soak in vinegar and rinse really well after every use. My friend has a refractometer and told me where they got theirs. Thanks for the info and sorry about the confusion with calcium and salinity. I was having a blond moment. Lol

And get a refractometer specifically for saltwater.

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

Alfrareef said:
And get a refractometer specifically for saltwater.

Ok. Thanks.

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

So I just tested my distilled water and dKH was less than one ( test water is supposed to start out blue and turn yellow. It was a very light yellow with first drop so I believe that means it’s less than 1.
PO4 is .25 ppm so I’m not sure if my PO4 test kits is accurate because it’s always .25 or .50 every time I test.
NO3 is zero

I’ll now mix up two gallons of fresh salt water and test later tonight.

Brew12 · Jul 17, 2018

Gaines69 said:
So I just tested my distilled water and dKH was less than one ( test water is supposed to start out blue and turn yellow. It was a very light yellow with first drop so I believe that means it’s less than 1.
PO4 is .25 ppm so I’m not sure if my PO4 test kits is accurate because it’s always .25 or .50 every time I test.
NO3 is zero

I’ll now mix up two gallons of fresh salt water and test later tonight.

That is one flaw with API. I treat any 0.25 reading as a zero. The PO4 API test kit is the one that they have I wouldn't bother using at all. I should have mentioned that earlier.

Alfrareef · Jul 17, 2018

If you can, for PO4 buy a Hanna Checker, preferably the ULR (Phosphorus). For me that have difficulties with colors and drops it was the best option I took.

Gaines69 · Jul 17, 2018

Just tested fresh mixed salt water using IO salt.
PO4 stayed at .25 ppm
Nitrate stayed zero
dKH jumped to 11-12 ( started turning yellow at 11 but bright yellow at 12).

CeeGee · Jul 18, 2018

I didn’t say anything about API I said Red Sea. As far as your levels if your alk is 14 and you add back water with high alk you are defeating the purpose.

It sounds like you got it all figured out so good luck.

Brew12 · Jul 18, 2018

Gaines69 said:
Just tested fresh mixed salt water using IO salt.
PO4 stayed at .25 ppm
Nitrate stayed zero
dKH jumped to 11-12 ( started turning yellow at 11 but bright yellow at 12).

For the API and most other Alk tests, you hit your end point when you start getting the first color change. If you go until you see a significant color change, you have gone to far.