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- Dec 9, 2014
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- tejas
- What state or country do you live in
- Alaska
Three times too big to rip clean admittedly / need practical solution
the hobby is currently working on that for large tanks/tbd
as a cherry picker of 2020 top methods if your tank was mine it would get this order of ops:
still four hours of topical/siphon out replace with clean water all mats of growth, in the end you have a fully cleaned reef but you know growback is coming. Even at 200+ gallons, no opting out of physical work/large tankers task, the clean condition vs the invaded condition start is what physical cleaners bring in portion to large tank job headaches...but you won’t be taking tank apart to clean it like we do for nano reefs
Standard reach in to your hips wet, siphon out the mats, hours of hard work. Lift some rocks out and rinse in sw outside the tank, work what you can if any.
It’s forcing the least mass condition for the next steps. The masses always start in the fully invaded condition, and we‘ve had this problem ten years now the hobby might want to expand treatment approaches...dinos are still our top scourge. It’s ok to venture outside of norms a little
in the clean condition, the pickings from the algae barn / ipsf refugium charger packs get added, don’t add invisible pods to your reef add the busy ant-like gammarid charger packs. Eaters of dinos and scum
increase competitive diversity in the clean condition by adding real micro life forms not currently there in strong numbers.
next, add UV appropriate to that size tank and spend well its equal in importance to a skimmer. That’s not to say we can’t luck into big tanking without uv, it means it can be a costly endeavor to try
I would always always cheat with a pond sterilizer off Amazon if I owned a reef larger than fifteen pounds full running including rock and water and glass.
remove all forms of phosphate control and nitrate control as you wage battle, but still don’t allow algae. Manually clean it off the rocks, recurring theme.
still aren’t reacting to nitrate and phosphate yet, few steps left.
if you are having to hand siphon even after ten days on uv, cleaned tank, and added microfauna and removed adsorption media, then try some bottled preps for competition there are a few dino prevention packs out there nowadays. Bacterial doser companies have dinos competition packs, they’re cheap to try.
the last step is measuring and adjusting nitrate and phosphate. Those two don’t go wildly out of step in maturing reefs by and large unless we selectively remove them, and that was stopped a while back. Alter your params in the clean post treatment, not as the initial step in the invaded condition, thats what everyone has been doing ten years and we are still here battling.
I’m aware ten thousand posts say my nitrate is zero even without adsorption media. am also aware of test reading comparison threads, 95% of posted nitrate readings are simply wrong-save parameter adjustments for the very last place you’ll be ballparking right when it feels you’re being exact, thats a last position move. Last last place is dinox or adding peroxide to the water, the burner approaches
the hobby is currently working on that for large tanks/tbd
as a cherry picker of 2020 top methods if your tank was mine it would get this order of ops:
still four hours of topical/siphon out replace with clean water all mats of growth, in the end you have a fully cleaned reef but you know growback is coming. Even at 200+ gallons, no opting out of physical work/large tankers task, the clean condition vs the invaded condition start is what physical cleaners bring in portion to large tank job headaches...but you won’t be taking tank apart to clean it like we do for nano reefs
Standard reach in to your hips wet, siphon out the mats, hours of hard work. Lift some rocks out and rinse in sw outside the tank, work what you can if any.
It’s forcing the least mass condition for the next steps. The masses always start in the fully invaded condition, and we‘ve had this problem ten years now the hobby might want to expand treatment approaches...dinos are still our top scourge. It’s ok to venture outside of norms a little
in the clean condition, the pickings from the algae barn / ipsf refugium charger packs get added, don’t add invisible pods to your reef add the busy ant-like gammarid charger packs. Eaters of dinos and scum
increase competitive diversity in the clean condition by adding real micro life forms not currently there in strong numbers.
next, add UV appropriate to that size tank and spend well its equal in importance to a skimmer. That’s not to say we can’t luck into big tanking without uv, it means it can be a costly endeavor to try
I would always always cheat with a pond sterilizer off Amazon if I owned a reef larger than fifteen pounds full running including rock and water and glass.
remove all forms of phosphate control and nitrate control as you wage battle, but still don’t allow algae. Manually clean it off the rocks, recurring theme.
still aren’t reacting to nitrate and phosphate yet, few steps left.
if you are having to hand siphon even after ten days on uv, cleaned tank, and added microfauna and removed adsorption media, then try some bottled preps for competition there are a few dino prevention packs out there nowadays. Bacterial doser companies have dinos competition packs, they’re cheap to try.
the last step is measuring and adjusting nitrate and phosphate. Those two don’t go wildly out of step in maturing reefs by and large unless we selectively remove them, and that was stopped a while back. Alter your params in the clean post treatment, not as the initial step in the invaded condition, thats what everyone has been doing ten years and we are still here battling.
I’m aware ten thousand posts say my nitrate is zero even without adsorption media. am also aware of test reading comparison threads, 95% of posted nitrate readings are simply wrong-save parameter adjustments for the very last place you’ll be ballparking right when it feels you’re being exact, thats a last position move. Last last place is dinox or adding peroxide to the water, the burner approaches
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