I could use some general advice

[Jennyw]

Hello! I bought a biocube 32 off Craigslist. I've been experiencing algae, so asked for advice. My test results have been good, but someone said my app kit (came with the tank) is crap. So, I went to the lfs, and they said my phosphates are .3 and nitrates are 10. So, we need a new test kit. Are there any affordable options, and where's the best place to buy one?
Also, we need to lower nitrates. So, how?

The conversation at the lfs included blaming my live rock for the nitrates, the sand, relocating the tank, etc.

Fixes included refugiums, reactors, pumps, bacteriabact. I ended up buying bioballs and a bag to put them in.

The instructions I think I ended up with are to rinse the bioballs, put them next to my filter sponges, eventually throw the sponges away, and wait a while....

I need advice. So, reefers, what do I do? With a fairly tight budget

 

[Scotty Buttons]

Salifert test kits are good and pretty affordable on ebay. I'd try to get your phosphate down some either by water changes or using GFO . Nitrates at 10 I wouldnt be concerned about. Id recommend RO/DI water for water changes.

Also welcome to R2R

 

[Jennyw]

What is gfo?

 

[Scotty Buttons]

Granulated ferrous oxide, it will remove phosphate from your water. I would honestly just try to lower both thru water changes. What kind of lighting do you have, and what are your tank inhabitants? And how often do you feed the tank?

 

[Jennyw]

Granulated ferrous oxide, it will remove phosphate from your water. I would honestly just try to lower both thru water changes. What kind of lighting do you have, and what are your tank inhabitants? And how often do you feed the tank?

I have stock LED lighting. Two baby clownfish, scarlet skunk, two snails and maybe 8 hermits.
I've been changing 5 gallons every Saturday

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

Welcome to R2R where you will find lovely people everywhere and more info than a super computer can process.

In terms of your questions the api test kit is 34.99 it tests everything except mag. I have good results with it, and still use it. Are there better tests yes, are any of them perfect nope.

Depending on how long your tank has been set up, it will go through some ugly stages. If your using tap water, I would stop right away. You can also get a uv sterilizer which would help with the algae. As far as bioballs go, personally I would never ever use them. For 30 dollars you can get the Red Sea no3 to help reduce your nitrates and phosphates. (Follow the directions exactly to the letter).

You could also do more frequent water changes which would help. But in honesty more info on your tank is needed to give you complete honest answer. There are tons of people on here who have tried every thing literally and know the in and outs. Again me speaking personally I wouldn’t use bioballs they usually cause more harm then solve. With that said some have had success with them. On a tight budget the redsea no3 is the cheapest easiest solution, but again the directions are very detailed, and they definitely should be followed. We would love to se pics of the tank and if you need help by all means ask away.

 

[Jennyw]

I have stock LED lighting. Two baby clownfish, scarlet skunk, two snails and maybe 8 hermits.
I've been changing 5 gallons every Saturday

 

[Jennyw]

Hello,

Welcome to R2R where you will find lovely people everywhere and more info than a super computer can process.

In terms of your questions the api test kit is 34.99 it tests everything except mag. I have good results with it, and still use it. Are there better tests yes, are any of them perfect nope.

Depending on how long your tank has been set up, it will go through some ugly stages. If your using tap water, I would stop right away. You can also get a uv sterilizer which would help with the algae. As far as bioballs go, personally I would never ever use them. For 30 dollars you can get the Red Sea no3 to help reduce your nitrates and phosphates. (Follow the directions exactly to the letter).

You could also do more frequent water changes which would help. But in honesty more info on your tank is needed to give you complete honest answer. There are tons of people on here who have tried every thing literally and know the in and outs. Again me speaking personally I wouldn’t use bioballs they usually cause more harm then solve. With that said some have had success with them. On a tight budget the redsea no3 is the cheapest easiest solution, but again the directions are very detailed, and they definitely should be followed. We would love to se pics of the tank and if you need help by all means ask away.

Okay. I have the API master test kit, plus ammonia and nitrite (or nitrate. Whichever isn't in the master kit) when I do the tests, I get zero nitrates, zero phosphates, zero ammonia.. etc

 

[Jennyw]

Okay. I have the API master test kit, plus ammonia and nitrite (or nitrate. Whichever isn't in the master kit) when I do the tests, I get zero nitrates, zero phosphates, zero ammonia.. etc

Oh, and I've been using water from the lfs, premixed, topping off with rodi water from the store

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

The master kit includes all of those it doesn’t include magnesium. It is good that nitrite and ammonia are zero they should be. The nitrates and phospahates you don’t want to be at zero. The water will be to clean and no nutrients. Nitrates normally do well between 2-5 ppm and usually phosphates are .25 or as long as it is not darker than the first color marker in the booklet.

I honestly would get a uv sterilizer, they will get rid of alage quickly and keep the water very clear. The coraline alage on the back glass is a good thing. If you have other alage hair alage etc maybe try vibrance (I haven’t but it seems to so wonders).

Now because I use the api test kit I have had some bottles go bad. So I do my tests usually daily or every other day, then Sundays have them checked at my local fish shop. Lovely tank.

 

[Skynyrd Fish]

Jenny great looking tank! Welcome to R2R! RO/DI water is the way to go. I had a friend who also used steam distilled from the grocery store, if you don't trust the LFS store water. IMO, bio balls are a nitrate factory, I would return them. Siphon the gravel and continue with weekly, or biweekly water changes. Your levels are not bad, some high end SPS tanks run higher NO3 and PO4, and are just fine. Good luck.

 

[Matt Carden]

Welcome to R2R! I'm too new at this to give advice. Good luck and nice tank.

 

[SPR1968]

Oh, and I've been using water from the lfs, premixed, topping off with rodi water from the store

Hi Jenny and welcome to R2R, it’s great to have you with us! And great looking tank!

The bio balls will eventually form part of the biological filtration within the system and then help reduce nutrients which can cause issues if they build up. Water changes are the easiest way to start with and are good for your tank, but stick to 10% of the water volume as a good guide so you don’t upset the water parameters. Stability is the key.

You can use GFO for phosphate as your level at 0.3 is high, it should be around 0.03ppm, but initially I would research everything as much as you can so you understand what everything does before adding additional measures to your system.

I think test kits are personal choice, I’ve tried lots and settled now on NYOS for Magnesium Calcium Nitrate and Hanna Checkers (expensive) for alkalinity and phosphate

On the RODI water just test the TDS of what the LFS are selling as many don’t sell 0 TDS and if it’s to high it will add to nutrient issues rather than helping.

You might find this useful and anything else just ask

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-supreme-guide-to-setting-up-a-saltwater-reef-aquarium.138750/

 

[reef lover]

Welcome to r2r!!