I don't understand QT tanks

[lookatmyfeesh]

Idk why you presume I am rude by suggesting you research the readily available content for answers to your questions, but I dont really care one way or another. Good luck to you lol...

because you're being rude.

 

[mdb_talon]

I dont know who this "everyone" guy is but stop listening to him.

Seriously though you will get lots of opinions, but i think generally most people agree even in a qt you need biological filtration of some sort established.

No need for sand. I use bioblocks purely for that purpose. They are cheap. I cure them in the DT and put in QT when needed(never go the other way once they get to QT they stay there). They will soak up copper is used(one of a couple reasons not to put them back in DT), but i am ok with that. Better than fish dying from ammonia buildup.

 

[mdb_talon]

Double post

 

[DaddyFish]

im literally being berated on fishtok for having live rock and live sand in my QT tank, everyones saying not to cycle it

There can be a lot of confusion between a QT and a Hospital tank. Many use the same tank for both, I typically do. However, the setup approach is very different between the two.

And I NEVER reuse biomedia, foam, sand, rock, pvc pipe or anything between "sessions" in either QT or Hospital. Everything gets cleaned with bleach and/or boiled before re-use.

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

so is it ok to just QT with no medication unless the fish is noticeably ill?

It is called observation. However a fish can have ich or something else and not be showing symptoms. Then when you introduce it to an aquarium with other fish and it gets stressed it will flare up and most likely spread it to the other fish.

Proactively treating is definitely better if it's not a fish known to be very sensitive to medications.

I would say dump and pray is least safe. Qt with observation is slightly safer. And qt with proactive treatment of copper/formalin and prazipro is the safest but most involved/expensive.

 

[DaddyFish]

@lookatmyfeesh Here's a few suggestions for you...
* Less is more in QT. The less material you have in the water column/tank the less you have to dispose of or bleach/sterilize before re-use, meaning you save more money.
* Using things like textured ABS plastic for bottoms versus sand means you can repeatedly reuse the material (after bleaching). I actually prefer a thin layer of black sand on the bottom to reduce reflections, but I dispose of it after each session. Cleaning and sterilizing sand is in my opinion counterproductive.
* Quality filter foam isn't a terrible bio media. It's not a superb biomedia but it's really not bad when properly cleaned (no bleach, no hot water, rinsed with clean tank water), and once established it will retain your cycle. It's easier to rinse foam clean than bleaching and boiling biomedia. Between sessions I toss the foam in the dishwasher with some bleach on a Rinse Only cycle and let it rip.
* Your QT should be less crowded than your DT. Don't expect to cram a bunch of 4" fish into a 20-gal QT and be successful. You must be realistic and also evaluate the needs of each species in advance of QT. Fish like Triggers and Tangs, even juvenile ones, aren't going to be happy in a 20-gal. They need some space and they surely won't be happy crowded into a small tank with other fish. Stress is the deadliest disease of all.

 

[DaddyFish]

And me personally, I observe the fish for a few days, then CopperSafe for 14-days, then Prazipro for two doses over 7-days, then freshwater dip, then observe for another 14-days while I work to adjust the QT environment to an exact match of the destination DT. When time in QT is over, I literally scoop the fish into a plastic container and dump them in the DT.

 

[Ta2oodfreak]

I think there is some confusion coming into play between QT and hospital tank....

 

[lookatmyfeesh]

I think there is some confusion coming into play between QT and hospital tank....

you may have hit the nail on the head my friend!

 

[Ta2oodfreak]

you may have hit the nail on the head my friend!

QT in my eyes is strictly observation for pests and disease and run with parameters as close as possible to the display tank (salinity, temp, sand and rock). Bring new stuff there, watch it and make sure all is well and then transfer to display if all looks well.
Hospital being a completely stripped tank minus some pvc for hiding spots and treated with hypo salinity, copper, meds, etc when necessary.
At least that is the system of things I am adopting and how I have interpret things.

 

[Kristopher Conlin]

QT in my eyes is strictly observation for pests and disease and run with parameters as close as possible to the display tank (salinity, temp, sand and rock). Bring new stuff there, watch it and make sure all is well and then transfer to display if all looks well.
Hospital being a completely stripped tank minus some pvc for hiding spots and treated with hypo salinity, copper, meds, etc when necessary.
At least that is the system of things I am adopting and how I have interpret things.

I feel this method will inevitably let something nasty into the tank. If not stressed a lot of fish can not show symptoms for a few weeks. After being introduced into the display and having a stress event happen like a heater failure or fighting with another fish will bring stress and lower the immune system of the fish and allow an illness to take hold.

 

[Daniel@R2R Verified Admin]

Very good discussion

 

[Tamberav]

So, you need to have your display tank cycled and with all the bacteria needed to keep your fish alive. You need to test the water regularly, and make adjustments as needed, you need powerheads, lighting, ect ect.....yet you put your fish in an empty tank with nothing but pvc pipe and a filter and heater? I don't understand how it's so important to have a display tank near perfect, but you can throw a fish into an empty QT tank for 2-4 weeks?

I cycle my QTs. Would only put them in an uncycled tank in an emergency and would add bottled bacteria.

I also use bricks and plastic plants and fake logs and stuff that appears more natural to fish. PVC is meh.

Spending 60-100+ bucks on a fish only to half butt QT is dumb.

 

[josephxsxn]

My QT is plastic PVC caves on bare bottom with a HOB filter that has only a sponge, It will cycle eventually even with copper. Don't underestimate what you can do with water changes too for handling build up of ammonia, etc.

 

[Jeffcb]

I don't quarantine therefore I don't need a QT.

Read this. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-other-way-to-run-a-reef-tank-no-quarantine.534274/

 

[Dburr1014]

My qt/hospital is the same 20 gallon tank. I don't leave it set up at all. As a qt, I fill it with tank water (water change for the display ) hang on back filter with sponge, pvc for hiding places. Ammonia lock and bacteria in a bottle just to be safe. I watch for signs of anything. If I need to do copper it goes in. All that equipment stays with that tank.
I once had an ick outbreak and was forced to use it with my display fish. 5 fish and one was a purple tang. I closely monitored the water quality for ammonia and the copper. They all made it thru just fine.

 

[Rickybobby]

Your qt tank can be whatever you want. Me I elected to make mine like a display so the fish would feel at home

 

[Imaexpat2]

So, you need to have your display tank cycled and with all the bacteria needed to keep your fish alive. You need to test the water regularly, and make adjustments as needed, you need powerheads, lighting, ect ect.....yet you put your fish in an empty tank with nothing but pvc pipe and a filter and heater? I don't understand how it's so important to have a display tank near perfect, but you can throw a fish into an empty QT tank for 2-4 weeks?

Its really easy! Let me explain as we are talking two different systems and QTing is one of my Pet Peaves at which I am a absolute **** about!

First your tank is a eco system, your QT is not! Once you understand that its easy to wrap your brain around the concepts behind both systems. Your display is your main system where your critters will reside and it has to be a ecosystem thats able to support itself with minimal assistance from you. If it doesnt do that then you will have the dreaded tank crash or have the Tank of Death. You display is that, its where all your critters reside in harmony hopefully on a permenant basis! Think of your QT tank as a hospital/observation tank. It has to house your critter on a temporary basis and you ARE the support system for that tank. Your QT tank is a tank that will need constant monitoring and one you will treat fish or corals in while you observe them for a period of time as required. You will have to do constant water changes on a near daily basis to keep ammonia, nitrites and nitrates from building up to dangerous levels. In a properly set up Display you shouldnt need that much attention on a daily basis to support healthy life and thriving critters. A QT tank is used to prevent you from introducing "Nasties" to your tank from a newly purchased critter. It helps you minimize the chances of introducing a disease or a pest to your display. Object of the game is to find out your new addition came to you with Apitasia on it where its easy to deal with and defeat than it is to defeat it once its infested and taken over your system. Problems like that are much more easily solved in a QT tank than it is your main display as you often have more options to address the issue at hand. Your display will be constantly running...on the other hand your QT should be drained and killed off (dried out) after each critter is deemed safe to be put in the display (at least in my opinion) to prevent the next "victim" from picking up any unwanted "nasties" or spores they left behind, if any. You want that QT tank to be as sterile as possible!!!

In my opinion there are two types of reefers in this hobby...those that have been burned and those who are about to get burned! Guess which Category Im in? Those that have been burned and learned quickly from my mistakes! The other category, usually fairly new to the hobby, just toss a new addition into their tank or if they are smart at least dip things before throwing them in the display. With as much money and time as you have invested in your tank...this is very risky at best and a recipe for disaster! Trust me I have been there and done that, dont be an ostrich and bury your head in the sand and think that those things just happen to someone else....your that someone else too! Believe me an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Once you have dealt with with Acro Red Bugs, Montipora Eating Nudies, Pyramid Snails, Hydroids, and Zoanthid Spiders just to name a few...you'll find that the 100-300 bucks you spent on a QT tank to be cheap insurance leveraged in your favor.

Unlike your display in a QT tank I can do massive water changes. I can use medications and not kill the beneficial bacteria in the main display too. I can run various media and resins in my QT economically to reduce the build up of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. I can significantly avoid the possibility of adding nasties to my tanks. Thats not always possible in a display tank and if it is difficult at best. Better yet if you dont introduce it to your display then you wont likely have it in your display. Its like my Grandfather used to say about driving..."Son, if you dont want to hit that telephone pole at 100 mph then maybe you shouldnt drive 100 mph". To me that analogy makes a lot of sense!

Hope this helps!

 

[DaddyFish]

Obviously as already stated above, I totally agree with the terms QT and Hospital being frequently confused. For those of us who choose to proactively treat/medicate incoming QT fish whether or not they exhibit any immediate signs of disease/parasites, the line between QT and Hospital is at best a smeared gray area. Thinking out loud... Perhaps we should attempt to break it down into three categories; QT (Quarantine Tank), QTwPM (Quarantine Tank with Prophylactic Meds), and Hospital?

 

[davidcalgary29]

Obviously as already stated above, I totally agree with the terms QT and Hospital being frequently confused. For those of us who choose to proactively treat/medicate incoming QT fish whether or not they exhibit any immediate signs of disease/parasites, the line between QT and Hospital is at best a smeared gray area. Thinking out loud... Perhaps we should attempt to break it down into three categories; QT (Quarantine Tank), QTwPM (Quarantine Tank with Prophylactic Meds), and Hospital?

Your idea is a good one, but I think that OP is probably suffering from information overload and would likely benefit from some time to digest the advice that's been given (and read a few more threads). Adding more categories at this point may confuse newcomers.