I have almost completely eradicated dinoflagellates overnight.

[CherBear811]

-Back in the day, Vortech Diatom filters were used which wa similar to a canister unit but had a micron bag and a special powder AKA diatom powder which polished the water and trapped minute particles making the water crystal clear

I bought the Marineland Polishing Filter ($50 at DFS) and ran it with the pleated micron filter. It did help. I had planned on using the diatomaceous earth I had on hand, but I read that food grade DE won't work on the filter and it has to be pool grade, which made me nervous. So I went with just the pleated filter. It works but it does clog quickly and it's not easy to clean well. Or at least I haven't figured out how (((would LOVE any suggestions anyone has))). Going to order a 3-pack but replacing every couple of days will get expensive fast so I took it out.... and the dinos came back. Going to add a uv next.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Acceptable but I would run it 5-8 hrs per day via use of a timer. That's a bit of wattage.

 

[CherBear811]

Acceptable but I would run it 5-8 hrs per day via use of a timer. That's a bit of wattage.

Is that in response to my question about a 36 watt uv on a nano? I don't have a strong opinion yet on duration. Why do you suggest such a short period?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Is that in response to my question about a 36 watt uv on a nano? I don't have a strong opinion yet on duration. Why do you suggest such a short period?

There are essential planktonic elements in your water as other food sources that can be greatly diminished with high wattage, That duration should be sufficient and I run mine for years during the day

 

[tripdad]

In response to Cherbear....Using the DE will keep the "dirt" from digging into the filter paper/mesh. Then when you clean it , the "dirt" will leave with the expired DE as you back rinse the filter. I use POUNDS of pool grade in my pool and I'm ok, a little twitchy, but ok, LOL.

 

[drawman]

Thanjs for your answer Tim,
my only concern for a reef tank would be introducing pest. this rock is full of life. I can look for crabs, mantis, but I am more woried on flat worms or other pests that would eat coral.
yesterday I saw this nudi in that tank with the LR, I am not sure if this ones are the bad ones that eat coral? do you know?

I do not have any coral in there but I am not sure if pest for acros, zoas or other coral can survive in a quarentine tank with out coral for 76 days?
when people say that it is good to have diversity in a tank to avoid Dinos, is it just bacterial diversity or other kind of life that come in live rock as well?

I made sure rock was never dry. it came in a bucket with sea water directly from the sea. do you still think I have to measure nutrients regularly in this LR quarentine setup?
please give me your thoughts about this

Thanks again

So that almost looks like a spotted sea hare to me. If so it is not a problem and will eat algae as far as I'm aware. See this link:
https://reefguide.org/carib/spottedseahare.html

In terms of other pests you probably want to look the rock over regularly like you describe. The longer you quarantine the better I would say to allow for any obligate corallivores to die off. I think in terms of diversity it's anecdotal but likely both bacterial and algal diversity play the part in outcompeting dinos.

 

[sensei]

So that almost looks like a spotted sea hare to me. If so it is not a problem and will eat algae as far as I'm aware. See this link:
https://reefguide.org/carib/spottedseahare.html

In terms of other pests you probably want to look the rock over regularly like you describe. The longer you quarantine the better I would say to allow for any obligate corallivores to die off. I think in terms of diversity it's anecdotal but likely both bacterial and algal diversity play the part in outcompeting dinos.

Thanks a lot Tim,

I see, so the diversity is to increase the possibility of outcompeting the dinos and that is the whole idea... ohhhh. makes sense. thanks for that explanation...

the next question is would the 76 days would be enough for the obligate corallivores to die or should I wait more time?
I know that in a fishless tank you need to add some food for the bacterial population to stay alive, but in this Live rock qt tank with lots of life, sea hares, hermits and crabs, do I need to still add food?
I ask because there is macro algae, sponges, etc and other food were this CUC would eat and maybe it is not necesarry to add foo to the tank?
please tell me what you think

Thanks again

 

[CherBear811]

In response to Cherbear....Using the DE will keep the "dirt" from digging into the filter paper/mesh. Then when you clean it , the "dirt" will leave with the expired DE as you back rinse the filter. I use POUNDS of pool grade in my pool and I'm ok, a little twitchy, but ok, LOL.

Thanks! That makes sense. Maybe I'll go ahead and order some pool grade then, I guess.... Just want high purity since it's for my tank and it seems like pool grade would be less than food grade. Sometimes, what seems intuitive is not correct. I was wary though, because the instructions that came with it say nothing about using DE. That was something I've seen others do. But, I have seen a couple of guys say that food grade DE doesn't work. I wonder why or what's the difference, or.... how to get a high quality pool grade? Lol....

 

[drawman]

Thanks a lot Tim,

I see, so the diversity is to increase the possibility of outcompeting the dinos and that is the whole idea... ohhhh. makes sense. thanks for that explanation...

the next question is would the 76 days would be enough for the obligate corallivores to die or should I wait more time?
I know that in a fishless tank you need to add some food for the bacterial population to stay alive, but in this Live rock qt tank with lots of life, sea hares, hermits and crabs, do I need to still add food?
I ask because there is macro algae, sponges, etc and other food were this CUC would eat and maybe it is not necesarry to add foo to the tank?
please tell me what you think

Thanks again

If it were me I would feed minimally maybe once a week or two and not very much. You would likely be fine not feeding also but if there are hermits and other crabs it may help them out. If you are going to add this rock to the FOWLR tank then I would think the 76 days would be more than enough. I'm not entirely sure of all of the pests that could reside in Caribbean rock and how long they would take to die off. I guess personally I would look carefully at the rock during the daytime and nighttime during that period (and the longer it sits the better). Alternatively, you could let it sit in your FOWLR tank (after the 76 days of course) for a couple of months before adding it to your reef.

 

[sensei]

If it were me I would feed minimally maybe once a week or two and not very much. You would likely be fine not feeding also but if there are hermits and other crabs it may help them out. If you are going to add this rock to the FOWLR tank then I would think the 76 days would be more than enough. I'm not entirely sure of all of the pests that could reside in Caribbean rock and how long they would take to die off. I guess personally I would look carefully at the rock during the daytime and nighttime during that period (and the longer it sits the better). Alternatively, you could let it sit in your FOWLR tank (after the 76 days of course) for a couple of months before adding it to your reef.

Thanks a lot!

 

[Ashley Kekua]

Thank you to share this!!! Blessed be to you and your reef tank! Cheer!

 

[chicago]

nice share.. thank you

 

[chicago]

nice share.. thanks

 

[baslewprime]

Thanks! That makes sense. Maybe I'll go ahead and order some pool grade then, I guess.... Just want high purity since it's for my tank and it seems like pool grade would be less than food grade. Sometimes, what seems intuitive is not correct. I was wary though, because the instructions that came with it say nothing about using DE. That was something I've seen others do. But, I have seen a couple of guys say that food grade DE doesn't work. I wonder why or what's the difference, or.... how to get a high quality pool grade? Lol....

any update?

 

[chicago]

i have some a sps QT .. few pieces of live rock.. no fish.. I QT the sps for issues of possible ICK. I thought I had some strange algea growing and now thinking it is Dino and will look microscope
.

 

[CherBear811]

any update?

I am trying to figure out what makes a good pool grade and still researching it.... If anyone has a product suggestion they have used I would be happy to take advice. I need to get the replacement filters as well. As mine is too clogged to try using again.

 

[baslewprime]

I am trying to figure out what makes a good pool grade and still researching it.... If anyone has a product suggestion they have used I would be happy to take advice. I need to get the replacement filters as well. As mine is too clogged to try using again.

im running uv 24/7. still having dino. maybe not enough wattage

 

[Radman73]

im running uv 24/7. still having dino. maybe not enough wattage

Same issue here. Though in my case it's only been a few days. I have a 55w on a 220DT. Thinking of ordering another 55w but unsure if I should put them in series or parallel. Or how much flow.

How easy are dino's to kill with UV? I have ~700gph going through the 55w right now. Unsure if I should reduce it or not.

 

[baslewprime]

Same issue here. Though in my case it's only been a few days. I have a 55w on a 220DT. Thinking of ordering another 55w but unsure if I should put them in series or parallel. Or how much flow.

How easy are dino's to kill with UV? I have ~700gph going through the 55w right now. Unsure if I should reduce it or not.

most people says:

high flow = crystal clear water
low flow = kill bacteria.

 

[chicago]

Take a look at these photos... no Dinos. ??? i have fuzy almost whiteish... hair like algea growing on frag plugs.. from QT tank for Frags.. no fish ..