I just can't beat this cyano

[Jl330]

Manual removal just leaves it coming back the next day. Heavy skimming, not over feeding, what's going on here?

Nitrates are around 15. Phosphates about .25.

Edit. Vivid isn't helping after 2 weeks.

 

[saltwaterpicaso]

try a week lights out and dose 1ml per 10 gallons peroxide if that doesn't work in a month or so do same thing but with bleach instead of peroxide I have beat it both ways also beat it with uv once and again with ozone. before the lights out and during syphone it all out and feed very minimal that week and try no to use any amino acids or dose any vodka or vinegar all that does is make it worst cyano is very very easy to wipe out.

 

[Yuki Rihwa]

I'm not expert in chemistry and all I did is daily 10% water change for a week and that's it, it's done and gone! Now, I'm back at weekly water change and it does not make a come back yet (3 weeks without cyano). I did not use any bottle chemicals since I don't believe in them at all

 

[Jl330]

try a week lights out and dose 1ml per 10 gallons peroxide if that doesn't work in a month or so do same thing but with bleach instead of peroxide I have beat it both ways also beat it with uv once and again with ozone. before the lights out and during syphone it all out and feed very minimal that week and try no to use any amino acids or dose any vodka or vinegar all that does is make it worst cyano is very very easy to wipe out.

Hate to do lights out. Too many corals.

I'll increase water changes, decrease food, siphon it out and try peroxide. Any particular peroxide to use?

 

[nautical_nathaniel]

You have to be persistent with it, so your daily regime of manually removing it will eventually start to pay off, keep at it. It took me over two months to get rid of mine with daily removal. I also started feeding once every other day.

 

[saltwaterpicaso]

so do 3 days at a time

 

[GoPitt88]

Your nitrates and Phosphates seem high. I fought cyano about a year ago. I stuck with 10% weekly water changes, but before each change, I blasted the rocks with a turkey baster to get it in the water column and netted as much as I could. I then let the filters get the rest. I completed the water change, then cleaned the filters. The other change I made was to watch how much I fed, and started straining my thawed frozen food before adding to the tank. I did this religiously every weekend for about a month. It's never been back. My nitrates are between 0 and 3 ppm max, and my Phosphates are always 0. Running GFO in my canister filter. I still have to scrape the glass every 2 or 3 days from algae, and my corals are all doing great. Good luck! [emoji16]

 

[Jl330]

Your nitrates and Phosphates seem high. I fought cyano about a year ago. I stuck with 10% weekly water changes, but before each change, I blasted the rocks with a turkey baster to get it in the water column and netted as much as I could. I then let the filters get the rest. I completed the water change, then cleaned the filters. The other change I made was to watch how much I fed, and started straining my thawed frozen food before adding to the tank. I did this religiously every weekend for about a month. It's never been back. My nitrates are between 0 and 3 ppm max, and my Phosphates are always 0. Running GFO in my canister filter. I still have to scrape the glass every 2 or 3 days from algae, and my corals are all doing great. Good luck! [emoji16]

I let things go a bit to try to beat the dynos. I beat those and in came the cyano. If it's not one its the other. I might setup a mini fuge if I can figure out a good way to do it.

I think right now I just need to scrub down my canister filter and replace the gfo.

 

[Jl330]

Is it odd that I only get it on my sand and the two rocks that sit directly below my power heads?

Should I add more flow? My tank turnover is already about 20x.

 

[goatcorals]

Red slime remover or chemi-clean work great with no ill effects in my experience. Typically in one shot if you manually remove first.

 

[djwasimani]

I had the cyano problem i treated my tank with chemiclean and it sure did work remove 95% of cyno the rest i did with the big water change make sure to keep the lights off (if u dont have any coral)

 

[Jose Mayo]

Sometimes I have used azithromycin when cyano becomes problematic. It works with 1.0 mg / liter in a single dose. It takes 02 to 04 days to remove cyanobacteria in the tank. In that dosage does not affect the animals or the biological filter, in my experience.

The usual presentation is 500 mg tablets. The tablet is cut in the approximate dosage, according to the volume of water of the aquarium, and the piece of tablet is thrown on the display, in a place of good water movement. The tablet (Clindal AZ 500 mg by Merck lab) disintegrates by itself and spreads like a very fine powder all over the aquarium.

It is advisable to turn off the skimmer for two days and remove activated carbon from the system, while not cyano-controlled.

Best Regards

 

[mcarroll]

@Jl330 Have we seen you over at Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether? from when you were dealing with dino's?

Cyano is a pretty natural step in the recovery from dino's....consider it equivalent to a stage of "the uglies" when you start a new tank. It's good for the tank in almost all cases, even if it's not very nice to look at.

Are there signs of any other kinds of algae starting to grow, or is it just cyano? How bad were your dino's before you got them under control?

Since your tank is still trying to recover from dino's, manual removal of cyano mats like with scrubbing and siphoning is the only "quick cure" I would suggest. I would stop all treatments.....no GFO, no carbo dosing, no Vivid, etc.

If you're using a canister filter, that is a potential problem. If use with any mechanical filtration, they tend to be very good nutrient traps. That's potentially very helpful or very unhelpful.

In reef tanks, a lot of times it's a more on the unhelpful side of things – corals and snails and other critters would consider most of the detritus a canister catches as food just like you intended when you put it into the tank. That's a much more productive use of resources – and snails are much easier than a canister to maintain!

So if you're using any mechanical filtration in the canister, I'd remove it. Some activated carbon would be nice in there, but just a small dose.

How is your CUC? Dino's will often knock them for a loop – everything from the pods to the snails die off in some cases.

I bet @saltyfilmfolks or @brandon429 would be able to offer even more help getting past cyano as well. Certainly if you look through their past posts you'll find some great advice on the subject.

 

[brandon429]

Pics x3

Sight unseen, a sandbed is likely here as its rare for cyano/sprlna issues on bb though there's been a few. If we make that sandbed unable to cloud the tank, the cyano would likely be stopped

Sounds currently like topical removal only leaves the sustenance in place for re feeding. If you force clean the tank, not the invader, then redo the tanks nutrient profile and add competition against cyano after it's been cleaned, I'll vote that'll fix it

If it's your avatar tank that looks bigger than a nano, could be some good work/big job. You'll need a couple six packs (of green tea) to begin the job.

 

[Jl330]

@Jl330 Have we seen you over at Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether? from when you were dealing with dino's?

Cyano is a pretty natural step in the recovery from dino's....consider it equivalent to a stage of "the uglies" when you start a new tank. It's good for the tank in almost all cases, even if it's not very nice to look at.

Are there signs of any other kinds of algae starting to grow, or is it just cyano? How bad were your dino's before you got them under control?

Since your tank is still trying to recover from dino's, manual removal of cyano mats like with scrubbing and siphoning is the only "quick cure" I would suggest. I would stop all treatments.....no GFO, no carbo dosing, no Vivid, etc.

If you're using a canister filter, that is a potential problem. If use with any mechanical filtration, they tend to be very good nutrient traps. That's potentially very helpful or very unhelpful.

In reef tanks, a lot of times it's a more on the unhelpful side of things – corals and snails and other critters would consider most of the detritus a canister catches as food just like you intended when you put it into the tank. That's a much more productive use of resources – and snails are much easier than a canister to maintain!

So if you're using any mechanical filtration in the canister, I'd remove it. Some activated carbon would be nice in there, but just a small dose.

How is your CUC? Dino's will often knock them for a loop – everything from the pods to the snails die off in some cases.

I bet @saltyfilmfolks or @brandon429 would be able to offer even more help getting past cyano as well. Certainly if you look through their past posts you'll find some great advice on the subject.

My dinos weren't bad at all, just a couple days and then the cyano kicked them pretty quick. I've been getting sheets of cyano every couple days.

My inverts weren't really effected, I think i lost one crab.

Other than that though, I've just been manually removing. I don't know what else to do. I'll clean my filter heavily this weekend and remove the mechanical stuff. I had considered taking it out completely anyway and adding a homemade algae reactor in its place.

 

[Jl330]

Pics x3

Sight unseen, a sandbed is likely here as its rare for cyano/sprlna issues on bb though there's been a few. If we make that sandbed unable to cloud the tank, the cyano would likely be stopped

Sounds currently like topical removal only leaves the sustenance in place for re feeding. If you force clean the tank, not the invader, then redo the tanks nutrient profile and add competition against cyano after it's been cleaned, I'll vote that'll fix it

If it's your avatar tank that looks bigger than a nano, could be some good work/big job. You'll need a couple six packs (of green tea) to begin the job.

It's a 55 gallon.

 

[brandon429]

Consider this then as a precursor to changing up the nutrient profile in the tank so that the profile becomes cyano preventative after the sustenance for the cyano is resolved:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...a-one-against-many.230281/page-7#post-4107442

Really the only hard work aspect is making up 55 fresh gallons of water

Can siphon off the current into a brute container, to hold n put back after direct substrate access removes the invader.

 

[Jl330]

Consider this then as a precursor to changing up the nutrient profile in the tank so that the profile becomes cyano preventative after the sustenance for the cyano is resolved:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...a-one-against-many.230281/page-7#post-4107442

Really the only hard work aspect is making up 55 fresh gallons of water

Can siphon off the current into a brute container, to hold n put back after direct substrate access removes the invader.

I have actually considered removing some of my sand anyway. It's too deep.

I wish i had thought to before introducing 10k pods yesterday though.

 

[brandon429]

Agreed if that's the case then work that competition angle this would harsh them too much. If you can perfect and support the new competitors then you'll have prevention mastered. Could be handy should some dinos hike in one day

 

[Jl330]

Agreed if that's the case then work that competition angle this would harsh them too much. If you can perfect and support the new competitors then you'll have prevention mastered. Could be handy should some dinos hike in one day

My thought was actually that pods and cerith snails might consume some of this junk.