I’ve reached a point in my life where I am able to remove “certain variable” by getting really good equipment. ....same approach I take with the my tank Here is what I’ve been using : )
I just flipped thru your portfolio... you are the real deal!Yea, you need to learn how to use the equipment, then composition, then the software.
Back in the days when I shot film, it was very expensive. You didn’t want to waste film so you took the time to really learn how to get “the shot”.
Now days with digital people just take hundreds of pictures till they get a good one. This is what my wife does... sigh
Some of my work can be seen here:
I do allot of work in the automotive world.
Very nice!Just a few
I’ve reached a point in my life where I am able to remove “certain variable” by getting really good equipment. ....same approach I take with the my tank Here is what I’ve been using : )
The irony of these pics? Yeah, had to take them with my phone lol
That’s good advice... that I needed to hear. Because you are right. The flash feels like it’s in my way right now. The flash is a Cannon speedlite 470EX-AI. It does the automated computerized bouncing technique on its own. It’s been fun watching it spin around by itself depending on the pic I take. Lol.FWIW flash photography is the absolute hardest to do extremely well and make it look natural. Especially when the flash is attached to the hotfoot of the camera. Your brain instantly realizes when there’s frontal lighting on a subject because it’s “unnatural” and our brains are very adept at noticing when things aren’t “natural” or “normal”. You’ll likely be much happier with your photos if you put your flash away and learn to use your light meter and exposure to use natural lighting to your advantage.
Cool! Awesome pics! Hw do you shoot the black out background ? Or is that part photoshop?There are so much more fun ways to play with light and photography!
Light painting self portrait
I think I’ll fit in well with this hobby. Lol you just described my day today.
Gorgeous picture! You got skilz I’ll never catch up to! After what you just walked us thru on what it took to get that pic! Serious Props! I’d buy that pic and frame it! Instead .... yeah... (evil grin) I did just stole it!Photography fits everyone on this site! An expensive hobby with lots of gadgets, most of which we stop using, and takes a while to get right.
Most of the shots I've posted were taken on a reef. Aquarium shots to me are much harder.
But imagine (especially if you've kept one) trying to get an image of a Royal Gramma. They never sit still, are always skittish,
live in caves or overhangs, and swim upside down. So they are moving, you are moving with every breath (scuba) and there is always some current.
The saving element is flash because it freezes action, and is necessary to see beyond blue/green color underwater.
The same can be true for the aquarium but for the issue of over exposing a reflective fish (true UW as well) and reflections off the tank surface. For the latter, if you have a DSLR one can be helped with this:
Meet the Lens Hood That Prevents Reflection When Shooting Through Glass
A new lens hood is gearing up for release that allows you to take reflection-free images through glass. Taking form as a silicone cone, the accessory, entitled Ultimate Lens Hood (ULH) can be stretched and adapted to fit lenses of varying sizes. The equipment is utilized by first attaching it to...fstoppers.com
In the film days your number of shots on a dive was 32. You couldn't change film, and as above had no idea what you had until the film was developed, often days after returning from a shoot. With digital, UW is confined only by the lenght of the dive and there is instant feedback. Like on land a real game changer.
I don't recall ever getting a good film image of a Royal Gramma and it took hundreds of shots to get a few I liked. Post processing on this was minimal. The black background is a function of the flash and camera settings (and what's behind the fish). People who don't know marine fish can't believe the color is real.
I just looked at the link you put up there. That thing looks crazy! I have been using this... it helps:Photography fits everyone on this site! An expensive hobby with lots of gadgets, most of which we stop using, and takes a while to get right.
Most of the shots I've posted were taken on a reef. Aquarium shots to me are much harder.
But imagine (especially if you've kept one) trying to get an image of a Royal Gramma. They never sit still, are always skittish,
live in caves or overhangs, and swim upside down. So they are moving, you are moving with every breath (scuba) and there is always some current.
The saving element is flash because it freezes action, and is necessary to see beyond blue/green color underwater.
The same can be true for the aquarium but for the issue of over exposing a reflective fish (true UW as well) and reflections off the tank surface. For the latter, if you have a DSLR one can be helped with this:
Meet the Lens Hood That Prevents Reflection When Shooting Through Glass
A new lens hood is gearing up for release that allows you to take reflection-free images through glass. Taking form as a silicone cone, the accessory, entitled Ultimate Lens Hood (ULH) can be stretched and adapted to fit lenses of varying sizes. The equipment is utilized by first attaching it to...
In the film days your number of shots on a dive was 32. You couldn't change film, and as above had no idea what you had until the film was developed, often days after returning from a shoot. With digital, UW is confined only by the lenght of the dive and there is instant feedback. Like on land a real game changer.
I don't recall ever getting a good film image of a Royal Gramma and it took hundreds of shots to get a few I liked. Post processing on this was minimal. The black background is a function of the flash and camera settings (and what's behind the fish). People who don't know marine fish can't believe the color is real.
The rubber thingy gives you a flexible soft collar.I just looked at the link you put up there. That thing looks crazy! I have been using this... it helps:
I read the specs on my lens, it said .8 feet... so I stayed about 6” inches from the glass plus the length of the hood... another 4”. Thats with the 100mm lens... my 18-35mm... I can almost touch the glass with the lens.
