I need feedback on led layout please

[NanoNathan]

Here is my plan . I have all the leds and I'm ready to install them on my makers heat sink. This is a 12 inch heat sink. Please let me know if this looks like a good lay out. It's all solderless so I can make changes. Thanks

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[ReefLEDLights]

Looks Good.

The Makers is a good heatsink and given its narrow width the layout should not matter too much as long as everything evenly spread

The UV are not very bright I would add a few more if you can. Also depending on which one you have the Vf can be as much as 4.5Vf.

Bill

 

[NanoNathan]

not sure what VF is i have all cree leds. i could add more UV i have an extra driver that will power another 6 or so. I have a black box led unit with 3 uv led and they are not bright at all but isnt most of UV light in a form we cant really see? thanks for you input. im making 2 makers 12 inch heat sink so ill have 24 on each one also have 80-degree optics.

 

[ReefLEDLights]

The UV normally sold are really Violet or Actinic. 400-420nm.

Most use the Term UV so I reluctantly us it as well. True UV will degrade acrylic and other plastics and are really expensive.

The SEMI 410nm are the most common and are about a third as bright as the Cree XT-E. A lot of them give a really good look. Only a couple and you will not notice them.

Vf is forward voltage and is used to match a constant current drivers with a specific number of LEDs. The Semi UV LEDs have a Vf 25% more than the Cree X series, which means the total you can drive with the same driver is about 25% less.

Bill

 

[NanoNathan]

thanks for the info any insight on the leds. this is my first DIY build

 

[ReefLEDLights]

thanks for the info any insight on the leds. this is my first DIY build

Just choose a quality supplier. We've seen more and more counterfeits. Personally I like the performance and cost of the new Cree XT-E. Luxion has one thats a bit better on performance but it costs a lot more.

Spectrum is key. For a crisp Raduim look you want your Whites 7.5-8K and your Royal blue 450-455nm.

If you choose a non-binned Cool White you may get a bin that is warmer with a bit more yellow 5.5-6.5K. This can be fixed with more Royal blue but its better to get the mix right from the start and not do too much tweaking by adding or pulling LEDs. Some prefer to mix in a few warmer cool whites. This will give a look close to the 12K Ushio MH Bulb.

Greens and Reds are the spice. They do little for growth in our application and are personal preference. The cost is higher but I would put these on a separate dimmable driver so you can tweak the colour perfectly.

If you are not 100% fluent in soldering go with the BJB Connectors and 20ga Solid wire. Many suppliers have them and they work with the screws Makers supplies.

Also ensure every wire is tight and secure. I know this sounds redundant like look both ways before you cross but with the common constant current drivers a loose wire can cause your driver to surge and damage your LEDs. If you connect a plugged in (Live) driver to your fixture you will fry the LEDS.

DIY is the way to go as you are in complete control. Lots of positive results just see what others have done and follow or improve on their build.

Bill

 

[NanoNathan]

Thanks I got all cree leds and solder less ended up ordering from rapid the 48 kit

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[ReefLEDLights]

Thanks I got all cree leds and solder less ended up ordering from rapid the 48 kit

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Rapid is a good supplier. You will not get counterfeit LEDs from them.

Let us know how you like the Bins / Colour and their solderless connector style.

Bill

 

[NanoNathan]

I really like the solderless connections. I need to order different lengths if wire now. I didn't realize how many different ones I needed. For the most part I think it will look really nice and clean. Th makers heat sink you can tuck the wire in the slots to hide them.

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[NanoNathan]

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[TANKSALOT]

Very nice.
Looks like it will be a very clean look when it's done.