I Need Help

[reeferfoxx]

Sorry for the crap phone pics but here is the long term hospital tank. All the pipe is siliconed in place and the black base for the sponge filter is also siliconed down. Tired to get sight lines broken up some so my gramma/clown/cherub doint bicker to much. My blennie will just do his own thing tho so not worried about him.

Not sure how others might feel but I think you should remove half of that. Part of QTing is observation and this would limit that ability. Plus, you don't want a fish hiding and dying without notice. Thats just my opinion here.

 

[Evan West]

Not sure how others might feel but I think you should remove half of that. Part of QTing is observation and this would limit that ability. Plus, you don't want a fish hiding and dying without notice. Thats just my opinion here.

Fair point, im just worried about aggression if they can see one another constantly.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Fair point, im just worried about aggression if they can see one another constantly.

If I wasn't on my phone right now, I would find this article I read about LFS and how they get away with adding multiple species of fish to one tank without aggression. There is some sort of communal cooperation among fish when introduced to one tank at the same time. There is a risk of aggression but limiting space for fish to protect will help restrict some aggression. Maybe @eatbreakfast can chime in on that.

 

[Evan West]

If I wasn't on my phone right now, I would find this article I read about LFS and how they get away with adding multiple species of fish to one tank without aggression. There is some sort of communal cooperation among fish when introduced to one tank at the same time. There is a risk of aggression but limiting space for fish to protect will help restrict some aggression. Maybe @eatbreakfast can chime in on that.

I mean in the display they all get along fine, part of that tho i feel is that they can hide if need be or cant always see each other so i was worried about that in the QT

 

[reeferfoxx]

I mean in the display they all get along fine, part of that tho i feel is that they can hide if need be or cant always see each other so i was worried about that in the QT

Its good to question. I could also be wrong. I've never had to QT that many fish at once. So best to see what the expert says.

 

[Evan West]

Its good to question. I could also be wrong. I've never had to QT that many fish at once. So best to see what the expert says.

Did think about what you pointed out tho it is a concern for sure.

 

[reeferfoxx]

Well, hmmm maybe @Humblefish or @melypr1985 can give more insight?

 

[melypr1985]

I think the main concern here is going to be ammonia build up and poop and left over food being trapped in all that pvc. It's fine to have it all in there, but you want to be able to get under it and between it to suck out all the poop and food. It collects in the weirdest places and can cause serious ammonia spikes.

 

[nashvillian]

There is a high probability that Cherub is going to eat all your SPS/Zoa growth. JME.

 

[Cherub]

There is a high probability that Cherub is going to eat all your SPS/Zoa growth. JME.

I'll try not to

 

[AlexReef100]

I will say that I had a tang in my main tank with ich and no way to move it to QT. I ended up running a UV sterilizer and feeding Dr. G's anti parasitic food for about a month and everyone was ich free after about 45 days. Just something to consider if you find you can't QT all of your fish.

 

[Butitor]

Okay I messed up, brought a new fish home and put it in the display, it now aperes to have ich 2 days latter, it had been removed and put in a tub with a heater and power head. Problem now is what do I do? This bucket is not a cycled aquarium and what about my display?

Before I'm strugling same problem like yours for more than a year. This will always happened if you have poor water perameter. Seachem paraguard is my life saver "http://www.seachem.com/paraguard.php" on my mix reef, I never lost any corals and inverts using this in my DT. Five years have past still I never set up a QT. Just follow the label instruction, then after three days of using parguard do a 25% water change and continue dosing if still any sign of ich. Run a UV at the same for fast result. Hope this will work on yours too. Happy reefing!

 

[jbow50]

I will say that I had a tang in my main tank with ich and no way to move it to QT. I ended up running a UV sterilizer and feeding Dr. G's anti parasitic food for about a month and everyone was ich free after about 45 days. Just something to consider if you find you can't QT all of your fish.

This is bs. Stop spreading muths about ick. The parasite is still there. Humblefish even said all it takes is one event to set it off and all fish show stress and signs of ick. I've heard stories of people coming home to find their doors cracked because of a draft and the tank dropping a few degrees and because of people like you that think there are reef safe methods of eradicating ick your just wrong. Just because you dont see it doesn't mean it isn't there. The parasite much rather prefers to live on the fleshy gill tissue so what's the chance of seeing it there?

 

[Ty Hamatake]

This is bs. Stop spreading muths about ick. The parasite is still there. Humblefish even said all it takes is one event to set it off and all fish show stress and signs of ick. I've heard stories of people coming home to find their doors cracked because of a draft and the tank dropping a few degrees and because of people like you that think there are reef safe methods of eradicating ick your just wrong. Just because you dont see it doesn't mean it isn't there. The parasite much rather prefers to live on the fleshy gill tissue so what's the chance of seeing it there?

Whoa, this is a pretty harsh response to something that may be being misinterpreted. It does sound like he is implying that he eradicated the ich strain infesting his tank, but he also may be stating that his tank was free of signs of ich. Ich management is a very real thing, something that I am unfortunate enough to be practicing.

 

[AlexReef100]

This is bs. Stop spreading muths about ick. The parasite is still there. Humblefish even said all it takes is one event to set it off and all fish show stress and signs of ick. I've heard stories of people coming home to find their doors cracked because of a draft and the tank dropping a few degrees and because of people like you that think there are reef safe methods of eradicating ick your just wrong. Just because you dont see it doesn't mean it isn't there. The parasite much rather prefers to live on the fleshy gill tissue so what's the chance of seeing it there?

Wow!!! Calm down man! I was by no means suggesting that not using a QT and just using medicated food was the way to go. I simply stated that if OP was unable to remove all of their fish from the main tank into the QT, that using a UV and medicated food can help sometimes keep the ich at bay and minimize its effect on the fish in the tank. I am in an unfortunate situation where I cannot remove my fish from my display tank without destroying the tank, so I chose to try management instead and its been 4 months with no signs of infection on anyone in my tank. Is there still traces of ich floating around in my tank? No doubt. Would I prefer to QT my fish for a month or so and completely wipe out the ich for good? Absolutely!! I was only offering a backup option for the OP if QTing all of his fish was not feasible, I was not stating that it was the only way to go.

 

[LuckyPhil]

Stickies are a great resource that could have answered all your questions.

Since your using copper may I suggest for test at least once a day (best twice a day - morning and night) to ensure that copper is at therapeutic levels.
Just remember once it is not within the level you have to start at day one.

I also went through a 76 day fallow but used TTM method as my choice. It's painful but worth it and I will never introduce a fish without TTM plus observation period. Trust me lesson learned.

You either go for ich management or ich iradication (also a stocky for this). Good luck mate! And don't believe anyone that suggests reef safe medication. If you read humblefishs sticky you know there are only a handful of ways in dealing with c.irritans

 

[jbow50]

Wow!!! Calm down man! I was by no means suggesting that not using a QT and just using medicated food was the way to go. I simply stated that if OP was unable to remove all of their fish from the main tank into the QT, that using a UV and medicated food can help sometimes keep the ich at bay and minimize its effect on the fish in the tank. I am in an unfortunate situation where I cannot remove my fish from my display tank without destroying the tank, so I chose to try management instead and its been 4 months with no signs of infection on anyone in my tank. Is there still traces of ich floating around in my tank? No doubt. Would I prefer to QT my fish for a month or so and completely wipe out the ich for good? Absolutely!! I was only offering a backup option for the OP if QTing all of his fish was not feasible, I was not stating that it was the only way to go.

I don't mean it personally. I just dont like the uv and feed garlic myths spread to people entering the hobby that gives them false hope. Start right in the first place and save yourself the headaches. We spend too much in this hobby to make careless decisions. Again not personal, I just know someone might read this years down the road and before they make a cheap decision its cheaper to quarantine from the get go.

 

[Evan West]

Well arguing aside I'm happy to report all the fish are alive and well and ich free and almost ready to return to the display