I need serious help

I have to go get a phosphate test

This will help a lot in getting you algae under control.

I am going to do a water change and try to take as much of the algae out as possible

Use a toothbrush to knock as much of the algae off the rock work before your water change.

Once the water change has been done, wait a day and check the nitrates, and phosphates again.

Run some carbon for a couple of weeks to get the ammonia down.

It is a slow process, but I go by the rule of "make a change, wait two weeks then adjust" one step at a time.
 
This will help a lot in getting you algae under control.



Use a toothbrush to knock as much of the algae off the rock work before your water change.

Once the water change has been done, wait a day and check the nitrates, and phosphates again.

Run some carbon for a couple of weeks to get the ammonia down.

It is a slow process, but I go by the rule of "make a change, wait two weeks then adjust" one step at a time.

...and, set up some type of prefilter with floss or something that you can pull and clean easily. Whenever I do a manual algae removal, there is a lot that ends up floating in the tank and ending up in the filter. You gotta get it out of there pretty quickly, and stop it from getting to your pump.
 
Folks.... the OP has ammonia and nitrites (that’s with an “I”) in the tank. Yes, the algae is unsightly. It is also probably the only thing keeping his fish from dying. You need to get the ammonia to zero immediately. That is what is urgent.

Please answer my earlier questions. You should also do the largest water change you can, as soon as you can.
 
...and, set up some type of prefilter with floss or something that you can pull and clean easily. Whenever I do a manual algae removal, there is a lot that ends up floating in the tank and ending up in the filter. You gotta get it out of there pretty quickly, and stop it from getting to your pump.
Sox or sox's on the sump...
 
First, I would verify the test results by getting it tested where you buy your water.

Second, you need to know what your PO4 is at. You could get that tested at the same time as the verifying test.

Third, I would remove as much of that algae by hand as you can. Turn off all of the pump, get a net, and try not to let to much of it get loose in the tank. Put a filter sock in afterwards to catch anything that did get loose.

Fourth, get some turbo snails to eat that stuff. At least 1 for every ten gallons, but I would go with 2 per 10 gallons based on the amount of algae.
 
Folks.... the OP has ammonia and nitrites (that’s with an “I”) in the tank. Yes, the algae is unsightly. It is also probably the only thing keeping his fish from dying. You need to get the ammonia to zero immediately. That is what is urgent.

Please answer my earlier questions. You should also do the largest water change you can, as soon as you can.
Hence the suggestion of running carbon;)
 
Time to get your elbows wet.
Fasten a toothbrush to the end of your siphon hose. I used a heat gun to bend the toothbrush to a slight angle and zip tied the toothbrush to the end of my siphon hose. Slowly - slowly and with just enough pressure scrub the algae off your rocks and glass. Do a small area at a time. Don't rush. The idea is for the siphon hose to suck up the algae you brush off the rocks, and not to make a big mess of algae swirling around in your tank. Do a water change when done. Change filter socks.
Repeat as necessary. Slow and steady wins the race.
You can do this! ;)
 
I am using a zetlight 6800 from 8 am till 930 pm, on 5 different light settings throughout the day

This is way too long for the lights to be on. You want no more than 8 hours of light.
This level of algae is due to in most cases the source water. If you are getting water from your LFS that's not a good thing.
I would get your own Ro/DI their unit could be not maintained properly.
If you get some blue legged hermit crabs they will remove the hair algae in a week. I have helped many club members with this problem.
Test kits can be very unreliable especially phosphate test kits.
 
Time to get your elbows wet.
Fasten a toothbrush to the end of your siphon hose. I used a heat gun to bend the toothbrush to a slight angle and zip tied the toothbrush to the end of my siphon hose. Slowly - slowly and with just enough pressure scrub the algae off your rocks and glass. Do a small area at a time. Don't rush. The idea is for the siphon hose to suck up the algae you brush off the rocks, and not to make a big mess of algae swirling around in your tank. Do a water change when done. Change filter socks.
Repeat as necessary. Slow and steady wins the race.
You can do this! ;)

I would do this... But instead of running your hose to a sink or a bucket, run it into a filter sock clamped to the side of your sump. (If you don't have a sump, run it into a sock clamped to your bucket and pour the water back into your tank after removing the sock.) This way, you catch all of the nasties you are sucking out of the tank, but you're not limited by how much water you can replace. You can clean for hours without removing any water from your system, just remove the filled sock and then do a water change.
 
Whatever you do, do NOT scrub the rocks while they are in the tank. That will just release spores and spread the algae all over. I had a big green hair algae problem. It. Took a while but I beat it. Total blackout, reduce feedings, lots of water changes, making sure to vacuum the substrate. Get a phosphate test kit and keep the phosphates and nitrates down (maybe dose NoPox for this).
 
rip algae out and do a water chang repeat get a block of marinepure to get biofilter going cut feeding way back don't give up fixable mix your own water much cheaper especially with the amount of water changes you will need
 
Increase clean up crew, test for Phosphates and reduce white light intensity.
Two questions: Is your tank at or near a window?
Are you using tap water?

Red sea NoPo4 will help in the battle but ultimately you want to find and start with the source of production of this algae
 
Increase clean up crew, test for Phosphates and reduce white light intensity.
Two questions: Is your tank at or near a window?
Are you using tap water?

Red sea NoPo4 will help in the battle but ultimately you want to find and start with the source of production of this algae

I am using tap water for top off. I am think of getting a rodi unit from Bulk Reef Supply. Would you recommend that? Also, my tank is not to close to a window.
 
Ro/di from brs is a great option. Also while you are there try and get a phosphate checker. Like the Hanna expensive but super reliable and precise
 
How’s your sump? Clean it or siphon the bottom if you have detritus. I found all sorts of nasty stuff in mine two days ago. I couldn’t believe how dirty the bucket was. Looked like muddy water. And definently get the ro/di. I am a fan of scrubbing rocks in a bucket of old tank water. It works well. Take this with a grain of salt as I only have been reefing for 28 years.
 
I once went 3 mths w no fish or inverts or corals. Didn’t bother w maintenance. Tank turned into a disaster. Pulled everything out piece by piece to get a severe scrub down w a stiff brush and then a toothbrush. All in salt water. Then big water change, reduce lighting, add snails and problem solved. Stay on top of maintenance:)
 

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