I stopped equalising water for fish.

[FSP]

If you don't have strong feelings one way or the other, you can always ask the vendor you're buying from what their preference is since they're the ones you're going to be dealing with if you get sent a fish weak enough to die from acclimation.

Alternatively, you can google what you think is right and click links until you find someone who agrees with your method

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

But ... Could you link me to my homework??

Yes, but only for you. And maybe @Sean Clark, lol!

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

While there is a ton of useful information available all over the web, not all individuals are adept at finding said info.....
Or maybe they are looking for additional information and trying to start a more in depth conversation...


~Michael

I welcome in depth conversations, but I'm not going to hold someone's hand to get them to that point... taking the advice given here and using that as a starting point to further one's own knowledge and then asking a higher level question demonstrates that one is invested and not just lazy

 

[michael_cb_125]

I can fully respect that viewpoint, and cannot disagree.

~Michael

 

[ingchr1]

OMG, I'm not going to search R2R or the internet for you!!! Do your own homework!

So, you're unable to quantify how much is too far off? From your post it sounded like there was maybe a general rule that you follow for allowable salinity and/or pH difference before the need to acclimate.

I was only looking for a simple answer. To put parameters around the vagueness of "too far". To share references that one might use for such information. To add more content to this thread that may help others in the future.

My mistake for having a questioning attitude, please accept my sincerest apologies. I will ask you no further questions.

 

[KrisReef]

I'm getting 4 clams in the morning. Their acclimation instructions are Here!

If clicking the link is too hard, I will past their preamble,:

Acclimation Guide​

A tremendous amount of time and effort stretching across the globe has gone into bringing these living works of art into your home, so please take the time to read and use the Acclimation Procedure on this website. We cannot stress enough how important it is that you follow the Saltwaterfish.com Acclimation Drip Method. If up to this point you've only been semi-successful in keeping marine life, it is very likely that you aren't using the correct Acclimation Procedure. Your success will increase 100 fold if you take the proper amount of time to introduce these wonderful animals into your tank by using the Saltwaterfish.com Drip Method.

If you follow Saltwaterfish.com's detailed Acclimation Procedure (below) you will find your success in keeping marine life will increase dramatically. This method allows for the fish, coral, or invertebrate to adjust to your aquarium parameters at a pace that is acceptable for that particular animal. We want you to have a great experience with both Saltwaterfish.com and the hobby in general. Part of that great experience is making sure your animals acclimate properly for long term success. You are the vital final component to this long chain of getting your animals to your home. Please give it the dedication your animals deserve.

The full Acclimation Guide is available at the link provided above​

Bye now. I've got to do some more homework.

 

[ingchr1]

Biota's Acclimation Guide:

We pack all of our animals with plenty of oxygen and care so that they could survive in transit for many days if necessary. All animals are provided with fresh full-strength saltwater that includes stress reducing and ammonia detoxifying additives to reduce the amount of shipping stress in transit. Even if an animal appears to be deceased, please attempt to acclimate and revive it, as the darkness of the shipping box can induce lethargy. For the health of our fish, please use our quick, simple acclimation guide below:

*Do not drip acclimate Biota fish shipped directly from our Biota facility *

1. Open box and inspect animals for immediate health.

2. Turn off lights on aquarium.

3. Float bags in aquarium for 10-15 minutes making sure to avoid clogging overflows or filtration.

4. Open bags and using a net introduce your new aquatic life to your tank. Be sure to avoid high flow areas and for smaller specimens make sure they are not predated on before they find the rockwork.

5. Leave lighting off for at least an additional 20-30 minutes, preferably overnight.

6. If you're acclimating new coral or clams, please follow the steps above plus the Light Acclimation Procedure.

Straying away from this guide may invalidate our DOA/DAA policy. Other acclimation methods could be harmful for our live animals.

New additions may be shy for the first day or two but should accept pellet and frozen foods once adjusted to their surroundings. Please be sure to monitor their health and behaviors for the first week.

An acrylic acclimation box is a great tool for introducing new fish to your existing fish in safety. It also allows you to keep a close eye on your new fish to ensure they're eating well and to allow them to recuperate after travel.

If you have any questions or concerns please send over an email to [email protected]

 

[ingchr1]

...We cannot stress enough how important it is that you follow the Saltwaterfish.com Acclimation Drip Method...

... *Do not drip acclimate Biota fish shipped directly from our Biota facility *...

Two completely opposite ends of the spectrum.

Now what do we do?

 

[52728299]

"All animals are provided with fresh full-strength saltwater"

Think we can assume they don't ship in low salinity

 

[TheReefDiary]

I've noticed LFS's will either have copper in the water to fight off disease, or will use low salinity method.

My favorite LFS uses copper method, so I just float the bag for 15 minutes and drop the fish.

My second favorite LFS uses low salinity, so I usually spend a few hours to equalise salinity.

mine does both so I always drip acclimated. my salinity is way off theirs. 1.018 vs. 1.025

 

[ingchr1]

"All animals are provided with fresh full-strength saltwater"

Think we can assume they don't ship in low salinity

What salinity does Saltwaterfish.com keep and ship their marine life in?

 

[52728299]

@ingchr1

Not sure, most likely low salinity, why else drip acclimate?

 

[ingchr1]

@ingchr1

Not sure, most likely low salinity, why else drip acclimate?

Based on their FAQ along with wording in their acclimation procedure I would assume they keep it in the "normal range", not low (i.e. 1.018).

"A tremendous amount of time and effort stretching across the globe has gone into bringing these living works of art into your home"

 

[Malcontent]

Biota's Acclimation Guide:

In a previous thread, they claim that higher oxygen levels in the atmosphere will cause pH to skyrocket the moment the bag is opened. They also say they bag with pure oxygen.

Studies on fish transport have found that they almost always arrive with supersaturated oxygen levels so this doesn't make sense. Not to mention oxygen doesn't affect pH and other studies have found that it'd take nearly 24 hours for CO2 to diffuse out of the water.

There are also many studies where pH buffers are added to prevent pH from declining and that this increased survival rates.

Lastly, they claim that they use an additive to bind ammonia. I don't think such a product exists that actually does this though many claim to do so.

 

[lakai]

If they are gonna die from osmotic shock, they're gonna die anyway.

 

[52728299]

Lol this forum really is the place to come when you feel like throwing theories and opinions around like fact. I still see it as a fish to fish bases with little to say which fish is more sensitive. Even if it doesn't kill the animal it very well could add unneeded stress. Idk, I have had way more success acclimating first ime

 

[92Miata]

Yes, this is a dangerous thread. It very much depends on the fish, what's fine for a tang may not be fine for an anthias. And inverts are a completely different story since many are from tide pools and see frequent changes in salinity.

In the freshwater world, you would be a fool to do anything but scoop and dump discus fish - osmotic shock doesn't bother them, but they need clean water. But another fish from the same area, cardinal tetras, must be drip acclimated unless your water has the same hardness or you'll lose most of them due to osmotic shock.

No, it's not.

In the majority of cases - the effect of pH rising after the bag is opened, and converting mostly non-toxic ammonium to very toxic ammonia is way more of a concern than osmotic shock.

If you're concerned about osmotic shock, mix up some salt water at a lower salinity, float, and then get the fish in that water. Drip/slow acclimation is always an unnecessary risk.

 

[HankstankXXL750 Verified Sponsor]

I have to say that my online fish source www.reefbeauties.com recommends floating and releasing, but they also recommend that the fish are introduced to the same salinity which they run at 1.019. Since I QT all new arrivals I just set my QT tank to this salinity, temp float closed bag for 15-30 minutes depending on the arrival temp and then net and release without adding any of their water to my QT. I have great success with this. But I do have to say that I believe rapid increase in salinity can be stressful or harmful to fish so I always watch out for that.

 

[drblank1]

Nope. Is osmotic shock a real thing for fish?

I just put my fish in the tank. Not worried about parameters when I see fresh water dipping with no ill effects. Haven't lost a fish or invert yet.

 

[KrisReef]

I just put my fish in the tank. Not worried about parameters when I see fresh water dipping with no ill effects. Haven't lost a fish or invert yet.

I just got 4 micro clams in the mail. To acclimate them I used a hybrid approach of dripping and dipping to execute @OrionN 's protocol (slightly modified) for fresh water dipping clams for PM disease. The modification is only that first I warmed some DI water by floating it in a bag in my aquarium along side the 4 clams in their own bags. After a couple hours of floating (I had a really long lunch due to rain delays) I cut the clam bags open and put the dripping clams into the bag of freshwater and let them soak for 30 minutes. Once they were PM dipped, prophylactically, I moved them into a bucket of salt water from their new tank and observed them for a few minutes, snapped this photo and decided that the "Crocea Ultra," two "Maxima Blue/ Turquoise 1st Grade," and "Maxima Blue/ Turquoise Ultra" all looked to possibly be the same clam? I'm not sure if this is a result of the dip but in any case they all were starting to open up and look normal after they endured the PM DIP|ACCLAMATION Dripping Clam Proceedure. I hope that they will not introduce any disease into the tank and I forgot to scrape their shells for hitchhikers so I may have goofed up regarding pyramid snails, who also don't mind fresh water dips as far as I recall?

The water cooled ~ 3F during the activity, it has been cold here today. Thanks for reading.