I suck at water changes, is supplimenting enough?

I do a 20% water change every 1.5 - 2 weeks. Majority of my corals tend to like it this way, but as usual you get the odd coral that doesn't like it at first.
 
The only thing that I look at is the fact I have a ATO hooked up and I know from adding my 90 total volume loser about a 1/8 or more gallon a day. So in fact through evaporation I am adding new water to the tank. Wouldn't my Red Sea additives and adding salt so often to keep my salinity up be a water change. So why would a 20% a month be needed if I am constantly adding water?

Replacing evaporation is not doing any of the things a water change does. Pure water in, pure water out, nothing else changes.

Adding supplements replaces those elements that are low, but does nothing for those that are accumulating. You might actually be making some things worse if you are adding something that is already elevated. :)
 
I'll go with the PHd from Harvard over the lazy way. It's for animals to thrive not just stay alive. Do you clean your house? I would think the answer is yes for a number of reasons

So my PhD in marine biology doesn't count?

It's precisely this arrogant outdated way of thinking that drives people away from forums!

Go and read up on Triton and DSR and enlighten yourself!

Cheers,
Tony
 
So my PhD in marine biology doesn't count?

It's precisely this arrogant outdated way of thinking that drives people away from forums!

Go and read up on Triton and DSR and enlighten yourself!

Cheers,
Tony

Go easy my Aussie friend. No one is trying to be arrogant and yes your PHD IN MARINE BIOLOGY counts. Thank you for the reference on reading. I spent a couple weeks in Perth several years ago, great place with good beer. Now if you dont mind let me go and ENLIGHTEN myself. (arrogantly spoken of course):bowl:
 
So my PhD in marine biology doesn't count?

It's precisely this arrogant outdated way of thinking that drives people away from forums!

Go and read up on Triton and DSR and enlighten yourself!

Cheers,
Tony

I'm certainly glad your tank is doing well, Tony, but I'm wondering what you suggest you should do for the things that you cannot simply add more and solve the problem?

In that category, I'd include

1. Chloride/sulfate imbalances from supplements (if not using those which cause no imbalance)
2. Accumulating organics which are not skimmable or bound appreciably to GAC
3. Accumulating trace elements such as copper

I'd also suggest that, while you say water changes are expensive, water changes are less expensive on most tanks that is a monthly Triton test to try to figure out everything that needs to be corrected, up or down, and then you have to buy the supplements for the upwards corrections.

Also, no tests are going to be adequate to tell you whether certain things are present in excess or not. How do you deal with those?
 
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From what i have read on triton and dsr both say that a water change may be necessary if certain levels are too high. Reg interval changes may be really limited. Both methods sound very interesting but just sure on testing cost and cost of the supplements they want you to use versus just doing a biweekly or a monthly wc. Salt isnt really that expensive and keeping up on the main 3 ca,mg,alk should be good. Coral mag just released a vid and article on dosing trace elements very good vid and article. Now thats it for my .02 worth. I dont knock any method that works for a person we ea have our successes and failures. We just have to find what works the best for ea of us
 
I'll go with the PHd from Harvard over the lazy way. It's for animals to thrive not just stay alive. Do you clean your house? I would think the answer is yes for a number of reasons

If I posted a picture of my house you would see the answer is no. I do a couple of water changes a year.
 
I don't know how it happened but I was going through my first cycle. I tested about 2 weeks ago and my nitrites and nitrates were through the roof. Yesterday I did a nitrite nitrate ammonia and ph test and everything read perfect... I was thoroughly confused as to how my water was so good if I hadn't done my "first water change..." all I have on my set up (29g standard) is a Marineland 150 filter with bio wheel rated for a 30g and a Hydor Korali 850gph (just added 4 days ago) with 26lbs of DR and 10lbs of LR. Copepods and Amphipods are all over the tank at night and I never turned my lights on during the cycle. I took my water to the LFS to double check my test in case I didn't do my test correctly or something was off. The guy at the LFS says "you're water's perfect and ready for live stock." I was shocked since all I've been doing is adding RODI as my water evaporates.. Maybe I was lucky but, now that I have a clown I need to get a skimmer or make one along with a oceanrevive I've been wanting on and add my sump im building with fuge. hope all goes well!
 
I am terrible at doing water changes on a consistent basis. I think they are good though and that's why with my new build I'm going total automation with my Apex. I've designed my system so all I have to do is literally get free saltwater from my local aquarium every 2 months or so and dump it into a Brute trash can. If I can't just do that, that will be sad. This helps take out the source of bad husbandry......me.
 
Triton and DSR sound promising. But right now the triton method seems a little silly with all the mailing water off for testing and very expensive to maintain. DSR not so much expensive as maybe a little to advanced for the average joe.

Now if someone says they are using these methods and not doing water changes makes a lot more sence than just saying I don't do water changes and my tank looks great. Just a little more data added to the statement takes on a whole new meaning. Just my 2 cent
 
Algae scrubbers are great for nutrient export. I've got two upflow algae scrubbers which I made. They have been running for about 8 weeks now and I'm seeing good results
 

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