I think Bio-Pellets killed my tank for years.

There is a lot more that would need to be known about the history of your tank and your routines, but it is all about balance. Sounds like initially your GHA was just winning the battle for resources first and then the bio pellets came into play and the bacteria there were further stripping away the available nutrients, trace and other elements and robbing the coral.

By removing the biopellets you are opening up more resources to your coral and other inhabitants that you want to do well. You may find that now that your tank is more mature you will need to up your dosing of not just Ca. and Alk. but of trace elements as well.

If you haven't done so already pick up a Triton Test and send it off. The results will be a good guide and a window into much more of what is happening in your tank. From there I would also recommend using ESV TE and TE+. Especially the plus if you start to see an issue with nuisance algae again. Can go into a lot more detail, but well worth getting more diagnostics before going further with the details. Get that cheato ball rolling again though (literally!) and you should be in good shape. Just make sure to keep good water flow around it and STRONG lighting. :)
^^^^ this

your corals need nutrients. GHA and Cyano have the ability to use other forms of nitrogen that won't show up in your test or before you test. This is why they are so difficult to rid from your tank and you often see threads asking why since they are testing zero no3 po4.

this is a good thread how zero no3 and po4 can limit growth, damage and even kill off corals and how they are dosing n and p back into their tanks.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/nitrates-stuck-at-0ppm-slow-coral-growth.345935/page-2

my new approach is to focus less on starving alage and cyano and more on healthy corals so that in the long run they will out compete for nutrients and space. I kick up the sand and any cyano every few days when I clean the glass and tweezer and toothbrursh the rocks when i change water. in the mean time i let my cuc including the emerald crab do their work
 
well thank you for telling me that. As i said , I hate abbreviations , it assumes everyone knows what you mean , and is very lazy writing
 
well thank you for telling me that. As i said , I hate abbreviations , it assumes everyone knows what you mean , and is very lazy writing

I am new to R2R (see what I did there :-) ) and just noticed this site doesn't have a sticky for the abbreviations used in the hobby. I started in another site and found such a sticky useful.

I never took offense to use of abbreviations when I started. I understood that members are volunteers helping me, and leisure time is a premium. I just took a few second of my to to look them up. Google can find their meaning very quickly.
 
well thank you for telling me that. As i said , I hate abbreviations , it assumes everyone knows what you mean , and is very lazy writing

In today's use of Tapatalk and smart phone keyboards to respond, abbreviations of very common phrases is not so much lazy as it is efficient, but I understand the frustration.


I am new to R2R (see what I did there :) ) and just noticed this site doesn't have a sticky for the abbreviations used in the hobby. I started in another site and found such a sticky useful.

I never took offense to use of abbreviations when I started. I understood that members are volunteers helping me, and leisure time is a premium. I just took a few second of my to to look them up. Google can find their meaning very quickly.

There is a sticky. It is located in the "New to Saltwater Aquariums" forum:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/lingo-commonly-used-acronyms-0.57652/

All of the reef forums and many people in the industry use these abbreviated terms so it is helpful for more than just R2R.

Welcome to the forum, BTW! (see what I did there? :p )

.
 
Quick Update: My skimmer and live rocks alone are keeping my NO3 at 2 PPM and PO4 at 0.00 PPM with my current feeding schedule. I have a GFO reactor ready in case PO4 rises. Alk: 8dkh, Cal: 450, Mg: 1360, PH 8.2, Salinity 1.024

Snails are still heathy, hard coral monty is still deep red and happy, and fish are great. Derbesia is under control. Every time I see a spot of it in the display I treat it immediately and I also blow detritus off my rocks every other day. I’m very surprised at how much can accumulate within that time even with my high flow tank.

I’m implementing the Triton method so to raise my nutrients so that I can start growing macro algae in the sump I’m turning off my Skimmer. I will keep monitoring my progress.
 
Not a great idea to start a band wagon discussion like this based on an incomplete picture and noted poor husbandry practices. This type of thread is like an echo chamber, everyone who sees it that has failed with pellets are chiming in with their horror stories and you guys are all reinforcing each other.
Bio Pellets are not the problem and are perfectly acceptable to maintain a ULNS. There are things you need to do, that I won't get into, to properly incorporate theses pellets into a reef tank and you don't mention it at all in your post so this is on you, not the pellets. I've got a local reefer nearby with a thriving SPS tank, that has been running the same brand of pellets as OP did for what like 8 years now? I've personally used them for SPS tanks without any issues as well. Bio Pellets are a proven form of solid carbon dosing. There is no question that they do work and can be a part of a healthy system when used correctly. This has been proven many times over the years.
 
Not a great idea to start a band wagon discussion like this based on an incomplete picture and noted poor husbandry practices. This type of thread is like an echo chamber, everyone who sees it that has failed with pellets are chiming in with their horror stories and you guys are all reinforcing each other.
Bio Pellets are not the problem and are perfectly acceptable to maintain a ULNS. There are things you need to do, that I won't get into, to properly incorporate theses pellets into a reef tank and you don't mention it at all in your post so this is on you, not the pellets. I've got a local reefer nearby with a thriving SPS tank, that has been running the same brand of pellets as OP did for what like 8 years now? I've personally used them for SPS tanks without any issues as well. Bio Pellets are a proven form of solid carbon dosing. There is no question that they do work and can be a part of a healthy system when used correctly. This has been proven many times over the years.

I really don't appreciate your tone. We are all trying to learn and share. If you have a comment please keep them constructive.
 
Not a great idea to start a band wagon discussion like this based on an incomplete picture and noted poor husbandry practices. This type of thread is like an echo chamber, everyone who sees it that has failed with pellets are chiming in with their horror stories and you guys are all reinforcing each other.
Bio Pellets are not the problem and are perfectly acceptable to maintain a ULNS. There are things you need to do, that I won't get into, to properly incorporate theses pellets into a reef tank and you don't mention it at all in your post so this is on you, not the pellets. I've got a local reefer nearby with a thriving SPS tank, that has been running the same brand of pellets as OP did for what like 8 years now? I've personally used them for SPS tanks without any issues as well. Bio Pellets are a proven form of solid carbon dosing. There is no question that they do work and can be a part of a healthy system when used correctly. This has been proven many times over the years.

not sure to which thread you are referring, but that isn't my take on the posts in this thread
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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