I think i have cyano

Scooter21

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I have a 36 gallon tank with hang in the back equipment. I've been having a section of my sand that looks clear in the morning and brown in the evening. Yesterday, I came home and it was pretty bad. I realized that it was because I forgot to plug back in one of my powerheads from when I fed the night before. So, only one small powerhead was running all day.

I read that it could be something else and to see if it reacts with hydrogen peroxide. I scooped some up and it definitely reacts with hydrogen peroxide.

I've been testing with a salifert kit and my nitrates have been about 15 and my phosphate is undetectable. The salifert doesn't change color at all. It looks like water. I'm not sure what I should do. Do I first need to look at it under a microscope? Do I just need to rearrange my powerheads to get more flow? I have a diamond watchman goby and he only seems to stay on one side of the tank. That side has pristine sand. He doesn't touch the other side
 

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White light photo please. Right now all I see is that you have a problem and it's blue.
 
looks like cyano.

This will help...
 
It comes and goes. I have it all the time and my tank is old. It doesn't mean anything.

 
I know this isn't a ton better. I probably should have been more prepared before posting this thread. Here is a another video from another day. I get out the real camera tonight and see if I can actually capture it in a picture
 

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White light photo please. Right now all I see is that you have a problem and it's blue.
Here's some better pictures. Full resolution available. Reef2reef is compressing them
 

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Here's some better pictures. Full resolution available. Reef2reef is compressing them
Just a little cyano. Increase flow on the rocks. Get phosphate to .1 and cut lights to 6 hours for 2 weeks with blue and uv only no whites. PNS probio is good also.
 
Here's some better pictures. Full resolution available. Reef2reef is compressing them
Cyano indeed
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
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Just a little cyano. Increase flow on the rocks. Get phosphate to .1 and cut lights to 6 hours for 2 weeks with blue and uv only no whites. PNS probio is good also.
How can you tell its not dino? I've gotten responses on both.

It seems to disappear at night and have reappeared when I have gotten home frome work
 
I'd be more worried about the GSP spreading. Live phyto helped my cyano and algae issues.
 
How can you tell its not dino? I've gotten responses on both.

It seems to disappear at night and have reappeared when I have gotten home frome work
Color, consistency and location. Cyano is photosynthetic and feeds off light. When tank gets dark, it diminishes and as soon as it receives energy (light) - it reproduces. Follow what was posted with blackout above and you will see daily improvement
 
I have a 36 gallon tank with hang in the back equipment. I've been having a section of my sand that looks clear in the morning and brown in the evening. Yesterday, I came home and it was pretty bad. I realized that it was because I forgot to plug back in one of my powerheads from when I fed the night before. So, only one small powerhead was running all day.

I read that it could be something else and to see if it reacts with hydrogen peroxide. I scooped some up and it definitely reacts with hydrogen peroxide.

I've been testing with a salifert kit and my nitrates have been about 15 and my phosphate is undetectable. The salifert doesn't change color at all. It looks like water. I'm not sure what I should do. Do I first need to look at it under a microscope? Do I just need to rearrange my powerheads to get more flow? I have a diamond watchman goby and he only seems to stay on one side of the tank. That side has pristine sand. He doesn't touch the other side
Peroxide is an oxidizer and will help lift it but Not the answer.
What is your nitrate and Phosphate readings?
 
Another vote for Cyano. I'm going to agree with some others here, don't sweat it, brush it off and siphon it out with a water change. I would not go chasing parameters or dumping in magic bottles at this point. I have had cyano with my nutrients bottomed out. More flow will help and a 3 day blackout should too. Just keep up good husbandry and stay on it with your water changes, and most of the time the conditions that allow it to bloom will pass.
 
Your lack of phosphate isn't helping anything. Cyano's competition needs nutrients, and so does your coral. It's not a major concern; get your parameters somewhere good, make sure your source water is clean (does the RO/DI need a carbon filter change, for example), and blow it off any corals it approaches with a turkey baster, and it should fade on its own time.
 

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