I think I made a mistake!

[Ian Baxter]

I have ich and black ich in my DT, so I set up my 50 gal QT. Everything was cleaned with Millards citric acid several weeks ago (except tank, I hand washed with water only). I pre-dosed with almost 1.0 ppm copper power and used Dr. Tims two days ago to get it going. I put all my fish in the QT yesterday (PBT, Purple Tang, yellow anthias, bicolor blenny, and two clowns) around noon. I also added some new fish (marble wrasse, kole tang, and three small orange anthias).

I woke up this morning and two of the orange anthias died. The water is cloudy and was yesterday, but the ammonia alert badge reads safe. I figured it was Dr. Tims, but I'm wondering if somehow the citric acid didn't completely wash off. Would that be dangerous to the fish or is it something else? The PBT is not eating today, which he's been struggling with ich and I think flukes (will FW dip today), but he was swimming into the powerhead in the DT for about a week but eating fine. The kole is hiding in the corner and will eat some nori as it floats by, but that's it. Please help, I am really struggling with this right now.

 

[Tamberav]

Perhaps the Dr Tims have cause a bacterial bloom and could effect oxygen. More vigorous breaking of the surface water may not be a bad idea.

Next time I would not purchase more fish. It is much more difficult to QT a large batch of fish then a small one and the newbies probably would have been better off in their own QT and not exposed to known disease. They are now exposed as well as exposing the existing fish to potential new disease such as urenoma and gram negative bacteria (seems to be going around in the supply chain right now).

Anyways, stuff to know for next time.

Swimming into power head is a sign of velvet usually or a fish struggling to breath.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Firstly, the ammonia badge also intended for freshwater is not to trust and known to give false readings. The citric acid is likely leeching and causing toxicity after addition of Dr Tims. Adding hi grade carbon or chemiPure elite will reduce any toxins. Oxygen is likely affected and your ammonia is likely accelerated.
I would take a water sample to a trusted LFS ASAP that does Not use API test kits and see where your readings are at.

I have ich and black ich in my DT, so I set up my 50 gal QT. Everything was cleaned with Millards citric acid several weeks ago (except tank, I hand washed with water only). I pre-dosed with almost 1.0 ppm copper power and used Dr. Tims two days ago to get it going. I put all my fish in the QT yesterday (PBT, Purple Tang, yellow anthias, bicolor blenny, and two clowns) around noon. I also added some new fish (marble wrasse, kole tang, and three small orange anthias).

I woke up this morning and two of the orange anthias died. The water is cloudy and was yesterday, but the ammonia alert badge reads safe. I figured it was Dr. Tims, but I'm wondering if somehow the citric acid didn't completely wash off. Would that be dangerous to the fish or is it something else? The PBT is not eating today, which he's been struggling with ich and I think flukes (will FW dip today), but he was swimming into the powerhead in the DT for about a week but eating fine. The kole is hiding in the corner and will eat some nori as it floats by, but that's it. Please help, I am really struggling with this right now.

 

[Ian Baxter]

I'm thinking of putting all fish back into the DT and then trying to clean the QT again. I still have a rabbitfish in the DT that I couldn't catch, so I haven't started the fallow period. I think that would at least buy me time to clean it.

I know swimming into the powerhead is usually velvet, but he's survived for so long that I think it's flukes in the gills. I did dose the main tank with PraziPro two times for the black ich with the fish in there. Then a few days after the second dose I was still very concerned for the PBT that I set up the QT.

 

[Ian Baxter]

Perhaps the Dr Tims have cause a bacterial bloom and could effect oxygen. More vigorous breaking of the surface water may not be a bad idea.

Next time I would not purchase more fish. It is much more difficult to QT a large batch of fish then a small one and the newbies probably would have been better off in their own QT and not exposed to known disease. They are now exposed as well as exposing the existing fish to potential new disease such as urenoma and gram negative bacteria (seems to be going around in the supply chain right now).

Anyways, stuff to know for next time.

Swimming into power head is a sign of velvet usually or a fish struggling to breath.

Firstly, the ammonia badge also intended for freshwater is not to trust and known to give false readings. The citric acid is likely leeching and causing toxicity after addition of Dr Tims. Adding hi grade carbon or chemiPure elite will reduce any toxins. Oxygen is likely affected and your ammonia is likely accelerated.
I would take a water sample to a trusted LFS ASAP that does Not use API test kits and see where your readings are at.

I'm thinking of putting all fish back into the DT and then trying to clean the QT again. I still have a rabbitfish in the DT that I couldn't catch, so I haven't started the fallow period. I think that would at least buy me time to clean it.

I know swimming into the powerhead is usually velvet, but he's survived for so long that I think it's flukes in the gills. I did dose the main tank with PraziPro two times for the black ich with the fish in there. Then a few days after the second dose I was still very concerned for the PBT that I set up the QT.

 

[piranhaman00]

That is way to many fish for that size tank, bacterial bloom.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I'm just curious, what was the citric acid used for? I got the impression that you used it as a tank cleaner/sterilizer? The trouble is that it is an organic acid and if you didn't rinse it off well, it serves as a food source for bacteria (like vinegar does) and the ensuing bacterial bloom can strip oxygen out of the water. The cloudiness is also an indication of that (or uneaten food).

Jay

 

[Ian Baxter]

I'm just curious, what was the citric acid used for? I got the impression that you used it as a tank cleaner/sterilizer? The trouble is that it is an organic acid and if you didn't rinse it off well, it serves as a food source for bacteria (like vinegar does) and the ensuing bacterial bloom can strip oxygen out of the water. The cloudiness is also an indication of that (or uneaten food).

Jay

I used it to clean all of the PVC, HOB filters, and powerheads. I'm thinking I didn't rinse it off good enough. For gas exchange I currently have two HOB filters, large powerhead, bubble filter, and a polishing filter running.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I used it to clean all of the PVC, HOB filters, and powerheads. I'm thinking I didn't rinse it off good enough. For gas exchange I currently have two HOB filters, large powerhead, bubble filter, and a polishing filter running.

I prefer to use baking soda or hydrogen peroxide for doing that - less possibility of residue issues. I use a 1:10 bleach solution to sterilize tank tools, but I really dislike how tough that is to rinse off.

Jay

 

[Ian Baxter]

I prefer to use baking soda or hydrogen peroxide for doing that - less possibility of residue issues. I use a 1:10 bleach solution to sterilize tank tools, but I really dislike how tough that is to rinse off.

Jay

Thank you! I will try that next time.

 

[Tamberav]

I'm thinking of putting all fish back into the DT and then trying to clean the QT again. I still have a rabbitfish in the DT that I couldn't catch, so I haven't started the fallow period. I think that would at least buy me time to clean it.

I know swimming into the powerhead is usually velvet, but he's survived for so long that I think it's flukes in the gills. I did dose the main tank with PraziPro two times for the black ich with the fish in there. Then a few days after the second dose I was still very concerned for the PBT that I set up the QT.

do you have large totes? Could put them in those while you clean out the tank. That way you don’t have to try and catch them all again.

If you think it is flukes, why are you using copper? Copper isn’t for flukes pretty sure.

Prazi resistant flukes would be hyposalinity treatment.

 

[Ian Baxter]

do you have large totes? Could put them in those while you clean out the tank. That way you don’t have to try and catch them all again.

I only have a 25 gallon tote. I know it would be a pain in the butt to catch them again, but I need to make new saltwater and I just ran out of TMP salt. Once the LFS opens I'm going to pick up some salt. I do have a brute trash can I use for mixing, but I will need that to make the new water. How would you recommend I clean the tank?

 

[Tamberav]

I only have a 25 gallon tote. I know it would be a pain in the butt to catch them again, but I need to make new saltwater and I just ran out of TMP salt. Once the LFS opens I'm going to pick up some salt. I do have a brute trash can I use for mixing, but I will need that to make the new water. How would you recommend I clean the tank?

hotwater rinse or a little peroxide if you want to get off any bacterial residue... sometimes it makes the glass slimey and a wipe down. You could probably get another tote for cheap at home depot. The fish won't be in there for long.

Catching them again seems stressful on the fish. They can probably all just hang out in a 25g tote if you are quick and the water is ready to go and there is air.

I once dipped 16 fish in 1 gallon of water and peroxide for 30 min :O Nothing huge mind you.

 

[vetteguy53081]

hotwater rinse or a little peroxide if you want to get off any bacterial residue... sometimes it makes the glass slimey and a wipe down. You could probably get another tote for cheap at home depot. The fish won't be in there for long.

Catching them again seems stressful on the fish. They can probably all just hang out in a 25g tote if you are quick and the water is ready to go and there is air.

I once dipped 16 fish in 1 gallon of water and peroxide for 30 min :O Nothing huge mind you.

Cleaning an aquarium with hot water has been known to soften silicone. I would say lukewarm is safer. I am 100% with you on utilizing totes

 

[Tamberav]

Cleaning an aquarium with hot water has been known to soften silicone. I would say lukewarm is safer. I am 100% with you on utilizing totes

Good call. I didn't mean hot hot... I guess whatever comes out of my tub lol

 

[Samgumbert]

I have ich and black ich in my DT, so I set up my 50 gal QT. Everything was cleaned with Millards citric acid several weeks ago (except tank, I hand washed with water only). I pre-dosed with almost 1.0 ppm copper power and used Dr. Tims two days ago to get it going. I put all my fish in the QT yesterday (PBT, Purple Tang, yellow anthias, bicolor blenny, and two clowns) around noon. I also added some new fish (marble wrasse, kole tang, and three small orange anthias).

I woke up this morning and two of the orange anthias died. The water is cloudy and was yesterday, but the ammonia alert badge reads safe. I figured it was Dr. Tims, but I'm wondering if somehow the citric acid didn't completely wash off. Would that be dangerous to the fish or is it something else? The PBT is not eating today, which he's been struggling with ich and I think flukes (will FW dip today), but he was swimming into the powerhead in the DT for about a week but eating fine. The kole is hiding in the corner and will eat some nori as it floats by, but that's it. Please help, I am really struggling with this right now.

Hey something to think about I was always told that copper is really bad for salt fish? I was told to watch for additives that have traces of copper in it. Maybe I'm wrong but my first thought was about the copper you added. Hope you get it figured out !