I think my tank is dying!?!?!?
- Thread starter Sean Shimer
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Oldreefer44
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Recommend 1 thing at a time otherwise wont know the core issue. IMO get some measureable nutrients first. I changed both lighting and nutrients at the same time to address an issue and still don't know which it was that fixed it.
Current107
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On my first system I had the same Hydrometer and same lights. I ran my blues at 50% and whites at 20%. My zoas grew like weeds. Them lights are CRAZY bright imo.
I would also recommend get a refractometer ASAP. That Hydrometer is garbage and caused myself TONS of headaches. Also, your tank looks VERY clean. Maybe even too clean for the zoas to grow. Could get the rotifer and try and spot feed the zoas to see if they perk up.
What test kit are you using btw?
I would also recommend get a refractometer ASAP. That Hydrometer is garbage and caused myself TONS of headaches. Also, your tank looks VERY clean. Maybe even too clean for the zoas to grow. Could get the rotifer and try and spot feed the zoas to see if they perk up.
What test kit are you using btw?
a6walter1
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As others have mentioned, you can turn off your skimmer and try to feed heavier (in the form of frozen foods). Also, make sure you bring that Alk up to at least 140ppm, but do it slowly, over the course of a few days.
Yes that hydrometer is crap my salt was at .26 witch I thought was perfect but something didn't seem right my tank look like it was under lots of stress and dying this was going on for 6 months I had a fish jump out so I bought another hydrometer to retest one said 0.28 I was bothered so I went out and got a refractometer and surprise surprise 0.38 I was like [emoji15]
a6walter1
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Nano man
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The hydrometer should be a backup as long as you season the needle by using rodi water left in it for at least 12 hours then dump that out then put tank water and re check.
But yah the refractometer is much better.
But yah the refractometer is much better.
Diesel
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True, if you are really spot on the mark of 0.0000000000 TDS.
redfishbluefish
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False! The closer your calibration is to what you are testing, the better off you are.
InvertEnvy
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This is false. I calibrated with RO/DI then got the calibration solution a couple months later. It was reading 1.025 but was actually 1.022
redfishbluefish
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@Diesel , you posted while I was typing. Amazingly we are saying the same thing!
Edit To Add: Oh wait, I don't think we are. If you wanted to measure something at or close to 0.0, than RO/DI is what you want to use to calibrate. However you wish to test around 1.026, so calibration solution is what you want to use.
Edit To Add: Oh wait, I don't think we are. If you wanted to measure something at or close to 0.0, than RO/DI is what you want to use to calibrate. However you wish to test around 1.026, so calibration solution is what you want to use.
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Sean Shimer
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I'm going up to my lfs (an hour drive) tomorrow so I'll take them a sample to test.
My lights are 1% white and 25% blue.
Currently feeding small pinch of pellets and flakes, and a cube of frozen (mysis) and an algae pellet. This is to feed a pair of clowns and lawnmower blenny. My emerald crab, pistol shrimp, and banded shrimp all eat these offerings too. There are also blue leg hermits and nassarrius snails.
My skimmer (Aquatop xyclone) is rated for 125 gallons and I have turned it off and will turn it back on maybe this weekend. I got the stand for a gift when I first started and it doesn't have room for a sump or refugium, so the canister I'm running is an Aquatop AF 400 (rated for 100 gallons).
I will get a refractometor so we can end that discussion.
Now, I am done trying to justify myself. I have worked hard in learning what I can in taking care of a reef tank and I plan on continuing to do so through out the rest of my life. If you want to condemn me for my first salt tank not being a success, then I'm happy for you for never having had any sort of problem with your tank(s). This thread was in search of help, as all mighty google only takes wild guesses where as people can take educated ones as we can process experiences and data.
My lights are 1% white and 25% blue.
Currently feeding small pinch of pellets and flakes, and a cube of frozen (mysis) and an algae pellet. This is to feed a pair of clowns and lawnmower blenny. My emerald crab, pistol shrimp, and banded shrimp all eat these offerings too. There are also blue leg hermits and nassarrius snails.
My skimmer (Aquatop xyclone) is rated for 125 gallons and I have turned it off and will turn it back on maybe this weekend. I got the stand for a gift when I first started and it doesn't have room for a sump or refugium, so the canister I'm running is an Aquatop AF 400 (rated for 100 gallons).
I will get a refractometor so we can end that discussion.
Yes I thought that my parameters were sitting nicely as I've always been told to keep nearly undetectable phosphate and nitrates, and with the API test kits, you get a close range and not exact number (I'll get a henna set when I have the chance). I am not used to reading the dkh and so overlooked its importance.
Now, I am done trying to justify myself. I have worked hard in learning what I can in taking care of a reef tank and I plan on continuing to do so through out the rest of my life. If you want to condemn me for my first salt tank not being a success, then I'm happy for you for never having had any sort of problem with your tank(s). This thread was in search of help, as all mighty google only takes wild guesses where as people can take educated ones as we can process experiences and data.
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Diesel
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Al though the answers were different they had the same meaning........... all honor to you my friend
Nano man
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Ill have to get this solution, any brand in particular?
InvertEnvy
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Aqua Craft is $13 on Amazon [emoji4]
Even distilled water is not completely purified I will find a local pet shop and get some Ro di water because they can still be stuff and get cabinets in there that that stuff does not like the other thing I would say is if you using a plastic salinity tester from instant ocean not trying to be critical but those things that use list or refractometer from Amazon for $20 is the best way to go on much more accurate way I measured with my refractometer and I bought one of those salinity tester for instant ocean my water was reading 2.6 but when I put it in the frakta meter it was reading.028 which is too high and I don't like that
