I think this millie was stung. Will it be ok?

prsnlty

Jackie
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This millie was on the frag rack near a hydnopora (didn't realize that's what it was). And it now looks like this.

uploadfromtaptalk1398886214178.jpg


Jackie
125g mixed reef peninsula
 
if you are talking about the tip, it looks ok should be fine
 
if you are talking about the tip, it looks ok should be fine

Thank you :)

Yes, that's it. It used to be really fluffy, great PE. I moved the Hydnopora to the other side of the tank and far away from any other corals.

Jackie
 
Are you sure it's ok? Here it is with a closer look and also a scrip next to it. The scripts next to it appears to have a thin skin (I guess you could call it) at the tip area too.

Some pics
uploadfromtaptalk1399067338188.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1399067392720.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1399067444980.jpg


Parameters are

Ph 8.1 (API)
Temp 78 (red sea)
Ca 420 (red sea)
Mag 1320 (red sea)
Dkh 8.2 (red sea)
No3 0 (red sea)
Po4 0 (salifert)

Feeding/dosing daily DrGs
SPS Max
Vitamins & Amino Acid
 
If it's caused by something touching it a healthy coral will be fine. Mine tough all the time some can touch some can't. But there could be other things going on. Phosphate is hard to measure with that kit but I don't think that's an issue.
 
Has the tank been up long? What other corals are in there? Are they ok? What's the lighting?
 
My tank has been up about 2 years. Running kalk, use jbj ato and ro/di. Lights are 2 t5 (new coral+ & purple+), 2 ai sol blue Leds and 2 24" cf 460mn between the ai's. Clean the glass 1x per week. The tank is very clean. The acros are on a frag rack 1 foot away from a wp40 getting great intermittent strong flow. The hydno got moved far away. I have zoas, palys, 2 acans, hammers, frogspawns and several other lps coral. Some mushrooms but far away.

I am thinking it was due to the Hydnopora. But my ph fluctuates from 8.2 if I can keep my house doors open to 7.8 when I can't.

Jackie
 
All my other corals, including a stylo, garf bonsai, green slimer and another millie seem healthy. These are all together on the same frag rack as the two that seem to have a problem. That millie used to bee very fluffy with long pe to its tips. Nothing with the tank has changed since they were added also.

Jackie
 
all seems ok. ph fluctuation is ok i don't notice a problem mine does the same. I would keep a close eye on it from the pic the polyps look good just the bad tip. the other acro with the piece of skin sticking off could have too much flow on it. Thats the only time i experienced that.
 
Ok. So maybe I should move the rack down a little and further away from the power head. I really love this millie, the camera doesn't do it justice. It's blue base w/red polyps. maybe I'm just real paranoid. Before I added the kalk reactor and ato I couldn't keep an sps except monti caps, to save my life. They would all die within a month. I had a blue monster that barely hung on then died. 6 months later it came back then died permanantly. I had a 5" yellow acro with purple tips do the same. It's been depressing to say the least. I've had these new sps for around 2 months or so and now this. Lol, I watch them like a hawk! I have to say, I'll be moving everything from this 125g to a 180g in 2 months or less and I am worried these guys won't fair well in the transition from the 125g.
 
i just put my hand in front of the coral and feel the flow if you feel it it seems too much, but polyps should dance. Moving tanks probably wont go well. Moving corals too much will also stress them. I have done it all some die for no real reason. I have had softies lps and sps and i have to say for me sps seems easier. They seem to fit my style better. Ive had problems with all of them but now i'm sps dominant and a lot grow like weeds. I wouldn't move anything unless you really think you need to I usually just aim the power head around corals. i have a frogskin acro that grows an average of all branches at least an inch a month and it grew in front of a ph and the skin started peeling and growing algae at the tip it also caused it to grow thicker. i just moved the ph and that tip recovered
 
Well any advice to keep them less stressed for the move? That bigger tank will be replacing this one permanenty. I will be doing it all in 1 day. I am saving all of the water from the 125 and the sump. Debating on keeping all of the sand. I've heard good and bad about that. Your opinion? And almost all of the LR. Plus I will have new cycled homemade rock to add.

Jackie
 
I was also thinking.... if I got 3 new cans and filled them 50/50 1 week at a time for 3 weeks of tank and new water each. Then when the 180 is up and ready I can take everything out into 4 more cans. Then move the sand, add a can of 50/50/rocks/can of tank water/50/50/tank water, 50/50 then tank water till full then the rest to the sump. Leaving fish in 1 bucket and coral in another. Then drip acclimate them all.

The new tank stand will have a different larger sump in it, the lights will all be in a new canopy the night before the move and the night before after lights out I'll be hooking up all reactors, skimmer and such under the new stand. Leaving only the sump filter and ph going.
 
Both my millies going bad :( Help please?!
uploadfromtaptalk1399668017340.jpg

The larger of the 2 in this picture has all of its branches (?) Receding and the smalled one has no polyps at all. I checked the flow and it isnt too much. The script has less polyp extension also. I do wc weekly and here are the parameters taken today.
uploadfromtaptalk1399668090021.jpg

Salinity 1.025
Ph 8.1
Temp 78
Ca 400
Mg 1360
Kh 8.7
No3 0
Po4 .001

I am also running gac gfo and kalk


Jackie
 
Make sure the kalkwasser is in hi flow and slowly added. Nutrients are real low. May be starving them. Do you feed the corals? The kalkwasser could be blowing on them especially if your not dripping slowly
 
Make sure the kalkwasser is in hi flow and slowly added. Nutrients are real low. May be starving them. Do you feed the corals? The kalkwasser could be blowing on them especially if your not dripping slowly

The kalk reactor is over and attached to the ato unit emptying into the fuge before the return chamber. The frags are at the farthest end of the DT away from the main return and about 16-18" above the spraybar return located under the rocks. The 125g uses almost 2g per day in top off.

Yes I do feed them once a day with Dr Gs SPS food directly and dose DR Gs Amino and vitamin formula 2 times per week.

So they might be starving?

Jackie
 
Should I bring up the Mg and Ca some? Try a different food? Any suggestions on the food?

Thank you, I really appreciate your help :)
 
Numbers are fine I wouldn't worry about them. There has to be something missing here how about the small things that could get overlooked like salinity and make sure it's not off. Maybe a test kits off. Also I noticed your dkh was 8.2 now it's 8.7 is this a daily swing. May want to try and stabilize that a bit.

If this wet my tank I would turn the ai's down low and cut back on Gfo and feed a bit heavier.
 
Numbers are fine I wouldn't worry about them. There has to be something missing here how about the small things that could get overlooked like salinity and make sure it's not off. Maybe a test kits off. Also I noticed your dkh was 8.2 now it's 8.7 is this a daily swing. May want to try and stabilize that a bit.

If this wet my tank I would turn the ai's down low and cut back on Gfo and feed a bit heavier.

The salinity is tested with a refractometer and it is always calibrated. My dkh does fluctuatein the 8.somethings as does the ph. Ph in my house is a tough one. And honestly they started looking bad about when I closed the house up due to 90 deg weather setting in. Could the ph swing do this? I know dkh can but that is much more stable than it used to be. And yes, I think the red sea test is just a tad off. I have a purple garf bonsai right next to the millies and it is perfectly fine.

I'll lower the mid day on the AIs 20% also. Mid day is set at 80% and they're located about 19" from the lights.

Jackie
 

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