I think we have ich!!! Help!

[ChristieM]

My porcupine puffer and red tooth trigger have come down with ich. They axiomatic well and all seemed good, but sure enough they have spots today. I don’t have a QT big enough for the both of them, or an empty one at that. Obviously it’s in my DT, so I’m looking to treat in the most effective way that will save my fish and not ruin my good bacteria balance in the tank. I have Fritz coppersafe and Ich-X on hand. Should I take the salinity down a few points? Should I raise the temp to 83-84. These are all things I’ve read can help. Thanks!

 

[sfin52]

My porcupine puffer and red tooth trigger have come down with ich. They axiomatic well and all seemed good, but sure enough they have spots today. I don’t have a QT big enough for the both of them, or an empty one at that. Obviously it’s in my DT, so I’m looking to treat in the most effective way that will save my fish and not ruin my good bacteria balance in the tank. I have Fritz coppersafe and Ich-X on hand. Should I take the salinity down a few points? Should I raise the temp to 83-84. These are all things I’ve read can help. Thanks!

Is your tank reef or fo? If fish only can treat the whole tank

 

[ChristieM]

Fish Only. In addition to the Puffer and trigger I also have a maroon clown, coral beauty and volitan Lionfish.

 

[fishguy242]

sorry cannot see video, @Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081

 

[sfin52]

I would treat the whole tank with copper. Any inverts will be killed

 

[fishguy242]

I would treat the whole tank with copper. Any inverts will be killed

WOULD NOT..

 

[ChristieM]

WOULD NOT..

you wouldn’t treat them with copper? Or the inverts would not die?

 

[hds4216]

Inverts will def die (though I do have an asterina star that ended up in my QT that’s still alive at 2.0 ppm copper power)

 

[vetteguy53081]

I was able to view videos.
What is age of tank?
What test kits are you using?
How were fish acclimated wen you got them.

My thoughts are Lymphocystis and the good news is that its' viral. The Bad news is that it is spreading and generally spreads quickly. Infection appears on the infected fish as one or more white or beige colored pebble or wart-like nodules most commonly seen on the fins, skin, or gills, although other tissues may be affected.
It is usually found in the fish skin and fins. After residing on its host for 4 weeks or more, the Lymphocystis cells rupture or fall off the host, spreading the infected cells in the water. The cells then either sink to the bottom of the tank and lie dormant or reattach to another host via a break in the skin or fins, or in the gills.
The good news is this virus is unique and is fairly easy to identify, and death from the virus itself is fairly rare. When the virus first begins to grow, it may be confused with the parasites Cryptocaryon irritans (marine white spot disease), appearing as small white or off-white specks on the fish's skin or fins.
There is no known cure for lympho , but you can utilize ruby Rally Pro to give a little relief.
Is is imperitive that you maintain good water conditions and diet of these fish are going to heal.

Back to the fish- Is this tank New?

What is ammonia-nitrate-ph - salinity of tank ?

 

[davidcalgary29]

you wouldn’t treat them with copper? Or the inverts would not die?

If you treat your DT, copper will penetrate the rocks, and you will have difficulty keeping inverts alive after that unless you do a major detox (and that is not guaranteed to work).

 

[ChristieM]

I was able to view videos.
What is age of tank?
What test kits are you using?
How were fish acclimated wen you got them.

My thoughts are Lymphocystis and the good news is that its' viral. The Bad news is that it is spreading and generally spreads quickly. Infection appears on the infected fish as one or more white or beige colored pebble or wart-like nodules most commonly seen on the fins, skin, or gills, although other tissues may be affected.
It is usually found in the fish skin and fins. After residing on its host for 4 weeks or more, the Lymphocystis cells rupture or fall off the host, spreading the infected cells in the water. The cells then either sink to the bottom of the tank and lie dormant or reattach to another host via a break in the skin or fins, or in the gills.
The good news is this virus is unique and is fairly easy to identify, and death from the virus itself is fairly rare. When the virus first begins to grow, it may be confused with the parasites Cryptocaryon irritans (marine white spot disease), appearing as small white or off-white specks on the fish's skin or fins.
There is no known cure for lympho , but you can utilize ruby Rally Pro to give a little relief.
Is is imperitive that you maintain good water conditions and diet of these fish are going to heal.

Back to the fish- Is this tank New?

What is ammonia-nitrate-ph - salinity of tank ?

Tank is only 2 months old. The puffer and lion have only been in the tank for a week. Ammonia 0 nitrite 0 ph 8.2 salinity 1.023. Temp is 77.2

 

[vetteguy53081]

Tank is only 2 months old. The puffer and lion have only been in the tank for a week. Ammonia 0 nitrite 0 ph 8.2 salinity 1.023. Temp is 77.2

I assume you’re using API TEST kits as those zeros are near impossible and API is notorious for false readings and have let down many reefers hence the low price of $21 for a master kit
Salinity a little low and bring it to 1.024-1.025
These fish also are not ideal for a newer tank especially the puffer.
How did you introduce the fish to the tank?
I highly suggest to grab a good sized water sample and take it to a trusted LFS that does not use api kits and have them test the water to see what results they come up with.

 

[ChristieM]

I do use API. It usually says .25 for ammonia and has stayed there since the cycle finished. We only got the Puffer because we’ve had one before and love them so much. We’re trying to have a predator only tank. Oh I forgot nitrates are up at about 20-30. But it’s time for a water change today.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

My porcupine puffer and red tooth trigger have come down with ich. They axiomatic well and all seemed good, but sure enough they have spots today. I don’t have a QT big enough for the both of them, or an empty one at that. Obviously it’s in my DT, so I’m looking to treat in the most effective way that will save my fish and not ruin my good bacteria balance in the tank. I have Fritz coppersafe and Ich-X on hand. Should I take the salinity down a few points? Should I raise the temp to 83-84. These are all things I’ve read can help. Thanks!

The porcupine looks like it has ich, but the trigger seems to have larger, more distinct spots, almost like sand is adhering to it. I worry about your ability to dose coppersafe in that tank with so much rock and sand, that will absorb the copper and you'll need to keep resting and re-adding it. Then, your rock will have absorbed an amount of copper that could make it unsafe for future use with invertebrates. Lowering the SG a few points wouldn't hurt but DON'T raise the temperature - FW ich responds well to that, but it just makes SW ich reproduce faster by moving it into its preferred temperature range. I wish you had a QT, as that would be the best way to go here.

Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

I do use API. It usually says .25 for ammonia and has stayed there since the cycle finished. We only got the Puffer because we’ve had one before and love them so much. We’re trying to have a predator only tank. Oh I forgot nitrates are up at about 20-30. But it’s time for a water change today.

Get a second opinion on your api results taking a water sample to a trusted LFS that does not use api kits. I have a feeling it’s much higher