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And? They aren't bright, but that's because our eyes cannot see the light they output. Our eyes are absolutely terrible at seeing blue light, which is why green and red LEDs stand out in an array sometimes. A violet LED will make a PAR meter light up, and once you correct for the margin of error, you'll see that they emit a ton of PUR, as it sits on the most photosynthetically active spectrum in photosynthesis.
Again, it's not just about color. And just because they are SemiLEDs brand doesn't mean that they're all that. It depends on the bin, spectra, and radiance.
Have you actually looked at the 'experiment' performed where Dana Riddle killed part of a coral using a red LED placed 1/4" away from it? Of course it was going to bleach. Giving 100 micromols of PAR in solely 660nm will kill any coral that is not grown in shallow water in nature, and even then may still hurt it due to too much light.
It's actually 30 feet (10 meters). I have seen nothing to disprove that chlorophyll in corals is unable to absorb red light. Check out the PDF file in the first couple of paragraphs in this post: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/eq...0170-lighting-spectra-photosynthesis-you.html
They actually tested the wavelengths absorbed by the zooxanthellae - they absorbed red no problem.
Who said anything about low PAR?
lol! :clap2:Yes the Red is available at 10 meters but only 55% is available at 1 meter...After that it drops quicker than Bill Clinton's pants in a sorority house![]()
Zooxanthellae do not contain chlorophyll b, it is totally absent. Chlorophyll a and c1/c2 are the main drive with a 10:1 ratio (5:3 in tridacnid clams), and then the accessory pigments peridinin, neo-peridinin, dinoxanthin, diadinoxanthin, neo-diadinoxanthin, and beta carotene are the most common in zooxanthellae. Showing that graph to people is misleading, as they will think that chlorophyll b is a primary driver of photosynthesis in corals, which it is not.I prefer this Photosynthetic graph as it might be more Representative of the zooxanthellae algae
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I have my violets come on first, as well. Mine in the 430nm range are bright enough to start waking up the fish before the other channels come on, and my drivers start their ramp at 195ma (Meanwell ELN-60), and I've noticed that since I start with those violets, my jawfish isn't nearly as jumpy in the morning. He was testing out my mesh top just about every day.The 24 Semi P2N driven max at 700 mA I have on my 330 SPS come on first and do not wake up the fish or cause the coral feeding tentacles to retract.
They do give the coral an awesome actinic colour pop

Will do.I'm more than familiar with the information Dana provided. Toss me a PM with an email and I'll send you our LED brief. I want this open for all to view and use...
And is why I don't like the generic Chinese LEDs. If there is any binning information, it's unlikely that it is correct, as QC is little to none in a lot of the factories.BTW Bins Matter Big Time
I've actually got a little BC14 that I want to use for an experiment. Only violet (35/65 split between 405nm and 430nm peaks), 445nm royal blue, 455nm royal, 475nm cool blue, 495nm cyan, and a few 660nm deep reds. Won't look that pretty except for fluorescing colors and some darker reds, but should grow like wildfire.Lighting a Reef Tank is a huge balancing act unless you have unlimited funds.
My point in regards to that is that zooxanthellae have been tested and can absorb higher wavelengths than 480nm. I've never seen testing that proves otherwise. Heck, some favia sp. can absorb light of almost any spectra:Its Been Proven 420-460nm Grow Coral....Everything Else Added Is Looks....IMHO...

I'm about to step on a loooooot of toes here.
I'd expect no less from a vendor who only sells fixtures using cool white LEDs.
Without the additional red spectrum, not only does the tank just look anemic, but you start to lose non-fluorescent colors. That's great if all you want is that glow from your corals that have green fluorescent proteins, or a few reds that have red fluorescent proteins, but a lot of oranges, yellows, pinks just don't show up because that light simply isn't present for them to reflect.
Comparing any array containing only cool whites to an array based on Bridgelux BXRA or Rebel ES neutrals in the 4-5000k range will be absolutely no contest in color and depth while still retaining the same superior actinic response provided by royal blue LEDs.
As for their PAR value, the entire spectra of the white LED adds to the PAR value. PAR is next to useless as a metric because it simply the total quanity of light emitted - I can build an array that sends out 500 PAR at 24" yet will not grow coral, as the light will be solely composed of 530nm light, a spectra in which little to no photosynthetic activity occurs in corals.
A cool white LED does not emit as much photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) or photosynthetically usable radiation (PUR) as a royal blue LED does (within the same family, of course - comparing an XT-E cool white at 1000ma to a Bridgelux BXCE royal at 700ma, for instance, isn't a valid comparison), simply because a white LED is a royal blue LED with phosphors applied to it - so you wouldn't be able to a 1600mW royal blue chip, apply a phosphor, and still have 1600mW of output in the royal blue spectra.
Taking into account that a cool white array typically uses a 1:1 ratio of cool white to royal blue, and a neutral white array typically uses a 1:2 ratio of neutral white to royal blue, an array based on neutral white will have the same PAR using less total LEDs, or more PAR if using the same amount.
Now, to address your issues with colored LEDs.
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Note the massive spikes in red. Despite numerous tests that have been performed (like the ones you linked to earlier), deep red does not bleach coral, at least not in the quantities we DIY'ers recommend. If you blast a coral with too much light of any wavelength it will bleach, and in particular to a wavelength that the coral has no protection built up to.
Green is wholly unnecessary. All white LEDs contain far too much green as it is. What they are lacking is cyan, which is pretty essential in color rendition.
Now violet - this is the 'meat' of photosynthesis. You see that graph above, how it drops sharply after 430nm? If you load up a tank with royal blue chips at 455nm or higher, are you really hitting chlorophyll a, the primary driver of photosynthesis in almost all corals, hard? Nope. It takes violet LEDs to do that. Chlorophyll C1 and C2 are different and can effectively use that 450ish-nm light, no sweat. However, chlorophyll c is present at 1/10 the numbers of chlorophyll a. (note that chlorophyll b, whose primary photosynthetic peak is at 450nm, is not present in zooxanthellae)
Corals are subjected to immense amounts of violet light in the wild: Feature Article: Light in the Reef Aquaria — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog So if violet is the primary driver of photosynthetic activity, why is it unnecessary again?
Am I saying that royal blue and cool white LEDs cannot grow coral? Absolutely not. That has been proven time and time again. Is it optimal for both color and growth? No.
Back to the subject of neutral whites. Some 'light' reading:
LED Aesthetics: What do you really think of your color? - Lighting Forum - Nano-Reef.com Forums
The 'Evil Cluster' revisited - Lighting Forum - Nano-Reef.com Forums
A quote from the OP of that thread, blasterman:
The people in those threads are partially (if not wholly) the driving force behind the LED arrays we have now.
I think I hit everything I wanted to, but I'm sure I missed something.
No. The lighting forum at nr, a thread titled "new makersled build" by xerophyte.. tons of 403nm and 430nm.. and now you're talking about it. Just interesting. I think it will lead to a really dark tank but very healthy corals..

xerophyte_nyc here...when I first came up with a DIY LED layout design, Jedi Master suggested I double my violet LED output. I was close to doing this anyway but had slight hesitation, so when someone else was a proponent it became an easy decision. Here's the link:
New MakersLED Build - Lighting Forum - Nano-Reef.com Forums
Worst case scenario, I am spending a few extra cents each month on a marginal improvement in fluorescence. Best case scenario, there is a significant improvement in PUR which is helpful for coral growth.
As for the tank looking really dark, that won't be possible since I am lighting my tank with plenty of photons, even without the violets. I did this on purpose so that I could run the lamp cooler with a dimmer, thereby extending the life of the LEDs and also giving me greater flexibility to mess around with the colors using the Typhon controller.
I'm still some time away from completing my project - there's always something else to do...this morning my son wakes up with a 99F fever, never a dull moment.
With plants, growth regulation, flowering and fruiting often requires significant blue light, even though the photosynthetic action per unit energy is much less than in the red spectrum. Marijuana growers will manipulate photoperiod and wavelength to improve budding.
I have never really read or seen anywhere how blue light impacts algae growth habits. Maybe it causes it to go sexual? Maybe it makes growth more compact or more tenacious? I dunno...let's make a violet algae scrubber, ha!
My brother lives in humboldt county NorCal. He recently got 2 600w plasma fixtures and says they're really yielding well. How long till this tech becomes commercially available to the aquarist?

