Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans)

[dieselkeeper]

My powder blue is covered with ich. He is the only one so far. So that means catching over a dozen fish in a reef tank. Treating them in QT and letting the tank go fallow for 76 days. How do I treat that many fish? I have two 20L gal tanks for QT.

 

[melypr1985]

My powder blue is covered with ich. He is the only one so far. So that means catching over a dozen fish in a reef tank. Treating them in QT and letting the tank go fallow for 76 days. How do I treat that many fish? I have two 20L gal tanks for QT.

Yes. Catch, treat and go fallow. You got it!
How big are the fish? You may want to think about getting a 55 for QT. Maybe somebody you know will let you borrow one? Or get it cheap off craigslist or something?

 

[Humblefish]

Yes. Catch, treat and go fallow. You got it!
How big are the fish? You may want to think about getting a 55 for QT. Maybe somebody you know will let you borrow one? Or get it cheap off craigslist or something?

^^This. If you can list out all the fish you need to treat, we can help advise if copper is your best option. If the PBT is covered, she needs treatment ASAP.

 

[dieselkeeper]

Powder blue tang
2 yellow tangs
Blue hippo tang
Yellow eyed kyle tang
Blonde naso tang
3 anthais
Royal grammar
2 perc clownfish
2 black occ clown fish
Starry blenny
Mandarin

This is the fifth or sixth time he had ich.

 

[Humblefish]

All are good candidates for copper, except for the mandarin. You'd need to split the tangs/clownfish up and treat in two different QTs due to aggression issues. I'm thinking at least two 29 gal QTs - although a pair of 40 breeders may be required if these are large tangs.

Does your mandarin eat anything other than pods?

 

[dieselkeeper]

I haven't seen the mondrian eat anything. So I think he is only eating pods.

 

[Humblefish]

I haven't seen the mondrian eat anything. So I think he is only eating pods.

That's a problem. No way he survives 76 days in a QT. I would return him to a LFS for store credit. Buy another mandarin once the tank is healthy again.

 

[TUSI]

Has any one try treating with Levamisole soluble. Some people say it works in a reef tank with out doing any harm.

 

[Smite]

I have an ich outbreak I've been keeping at bay with a food recipe a friend shared. Unfortunately all its doing is keeping the fish alive IMO. It's not solving the problem. I still see spots here and there with the occasional flash off rocks and sand.

The fish that will be quarantined are:
Pair of clowns
Red masked goby
Red spot cardinal
Sunset anthia
White tail bristle tooth tang
Neon goby
A pair of golden rhomboid wrasses - these are the reason I'm hesitant on using copper treatment. I dropped a decent amount on them (along with the wt tang) and would really hate to lose them. I realize now that I went too far out of my comfort zone, the price tag convinced me to bypass qt initially. Live and learn.

My current QT is a 40g breeder with a large bio wheel filter and skimmer rated for 100g + an ato. Currently cycled and contains liverock but that will probably be removed. I'm running out to make a screen top today and plan to catch my remaining fish tonight.

With my fish list, will a 40g work? Also what is my best plan of attack?

Full strength copper with wrasses? What brand and what test kit?

My initial thought was to go hypo since I have a ato I trust and thought it may be easier on the wrasse, but after reading this thread I'm hesitant.


Thanks for any help.

 

[Humblefish]

@Smite I think a 40 breeder would work for that bio-load. But keep a close eye on the ammonia (use a Seachem ammonia alert badge) after you take the LR out, just in case the bio wheel isn't fully seeded with nitrifying bacteria.

I wouldn't hesitate to use chelated copper on those wrasses. I personally like Coppersafe, but a member of my local forum reports great success using Copper Power on sensitive Leopard Wrasses. Just go slow, ramp the Cu level up over a period of 4-5 days.

An alternative (and better) treatment for the wrasses would be TTM: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/

 

[Smite]

@Smite I think a 40 breeder would work for that bio-load. But keep a close eye on the ammonia (use a Seachem ammonia alert badge) after you take the LR out, just in case the bio wheel isn't fully seeded with nitrifying bacteria.

I wouldn't hesitate to use chelated copper on those wrasses. I personally like Coppersafe, but a member of my local forum reports great success using Copper Power on sensitive Leopard Wrasses. Just go slow, ramp the Cu level up over a period of 4-5 days.

An alternative (and better) treatment for the wrasses would be TTM: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/

Thanks Humblefish!

Tt I looks a little time consuming for me. I'll be going the copper route.

 

[mrpergo]

I would second the use of Coppersafe. That is what I use when I QT my tangs

 

[Smite]

I would second the use of Coppersafe. That is what I use when I QT my tangs

Thanks. I just went and bought a bottle from my LFS.

I have Seachem's Multitest Copper test kit. Does anyone know if this is compatability with CopperSafe? It claims to measure all types, but want to be sure.


Also can I continue skimming while treating with copper?

 

[Humblefish]

I have Seachem's Multitest Copper test kit. Does anyone know if this is compatability with CopperSafe? It claims to measure all types, but want to be sure.

You need a Cu test kit that can measure 1.5 - 2.0 ppm, as that is the therapeutic range for Coppersafe. Not 100% sure about Seachem, but API's copper test kit measures in that range.

 

[Smite]

Thanks again. I'll pick up an API and cross reference the seachem to be sure.

I really appreciate all the help & information.

Now, on to catch some fish!

 

[mrpergo]

good luck, hopefully everything will work out for you

 

[Smite]

It was a mission and had to basically tear down the tank to catch everybody. I have them all in the QT now.

Whats the best way to introduce the copper? I'm going to do as suggested and raise it slowly. As far as adding the copper, just pour it in a high flow area? Or should I pre mix it in a water change?

I had a brain fart and bought CopperPower not CopperSafe. Its another form of chelated copper but I'm wondering if I should return it and look for the other brand.

@mrpergo @Humblefish

 

[Humblefish]

Copper Power is fine; it just has a higher therapeutic level (2.5 ppm) but you also still use the API copper test kit to measure it.

When I dose copper, I pour it into the flow of a powerhead so it spreads out quickly. Just add very small amounts at a time.

 

[Chris Palm]

T

 

[Chris Palm]

Sorry about the previous post. Something went completely wrong and it didnt include my text. So here's a second try.

I just bought the clown triggerfish a week ago and it seems to have ick. I am considering doing the TTM with two 4 gallon buckets. Should I have filtration when using the TTM or is a hydor koralia pump sufficient with just water circulation? With regard to water temperature I should be fine as the temperature here does not fluctuate much. Please let me know and any tips are welcome!