Ich Dilemma

[Aeb1419]

So I have Ich. Although this is not the worst thing to happen Im trying to keep a cool head about it. Would like to hear thoughts but this is my plan of action so far.

1. Remove livestock that is infected. I have a yellow neon goby that had it first. Then a wrasse who has one speck so far. I ordered a fish trap as catching them is nearly impossible and would require taking all my rock apart which is what I am trying to avoid. Worst case I will take it apart.

2. I set up a quarantine where I will add whatever is infected and do copper treatment. Since I cant add any media to filtrate cause it will remove the copper how do I ensure ammonia doesnt reach high levels? Should I transfer established rock thats in my sump to the QT tank? Will the copper kill the bacteria? Worried about ammonia levels rising since I will need to add fish as they become infected.

3. Not sure how long I have to keep it in QT before I can add them back but how can I ensure my corals get the influx of nutrients from fish waste? Should I add ammonia daily to the main tank?


Any help would be appreciated. I hate that im going through this but its important to have a game plan and see the light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[vetteguy53081]

So I have Ich. Although this is not the worst thing to happen Im trying to keep a cool head about it. Would like to hear thoughts but this is my plan of action so far.

1. Remove livestock that is infected. I have a yellow neon goby that had it first. Then a wrasse who has one speck so far. I ordered a fish trap as catching them is nearly impossible and would require taking all my rock apart which is what I am trying to avoid. Worst case I will take it apart.

2. I set up a quarantine where I will add whatever is infected and do copper treatment. Since I cant add any media to filtrate cause it will remove the copper how do I ensure ammonia doesnt reach high levels? Should I transfer established rock thats in my sump to the QT tank? Will the copper kill the bacteria? Worried about ammonia levels rising since I will need to add fish as they become infected.

3. Not sure how long I have to keep it in QT before I can add them back but how can I ensure my corals get the influx of nutrients from fish waste? Should I add ammonia daily to the main tank?


Any help would be appreciated. I hate that im going through this but its important to have a game plan and see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Monitor and maintain water quality. You can add seeded sponge to keep ammonia in check. Leave display tank fallow (fishless for 6-8 weeks to allow parasites to die off with no fish to host on) and run Coppersafe at 2.25 for a FULL 30 days with added aeration and monitor copper level with a reliable copper test kit such as Hanna brand
Do not add to tank with coral but broadcast feed Rea AB+ or aminos

 

[Aeb1419]

Monitor and maintain water quality. You can add seeded sponge to keep ammonia in check. Leave display tank fallow (fishless for 6-8 weeks to allow parasites to die off with no fish to host on) and run Coppersafe at 2.25 for a FULL 30 days with added aeration and monitor copper level with a reliable copper test kit such as Hanna brand
Do not add to tank with coral but broadcast feed Rea AB+ or aminos

Can you clarify what seeded sponge means

 

[vetteguy53081]

Can you clarify what seeded sponge means

A sponge that has been in a previous tank seeded with bacteria

 

[Aeb1419]

Ok I dont want to feel dumb dor asking a dumb question but do you mean like a sponge you buy at the store to clean dishes?

 

[Outlaw Corals]

So I have Ich. Although this is not the worst thing to happen Im trying to keep a cool head about it. Would like to hear thoughts but this is my plan of action so far.

1. Remove livestock that is infected. I have a yellow neon goby that had it first. Then a wrasse who has one speck so far. I ordered a fish trap as catching them is nearly impossible and would require taking all my rock apart which is what I am trying to avoid. Worst case I will take it apart.

2. I set up a quarantine where I will add whatever is infected and do copper treatment. Since I cant add any media to filtrate cause it will remove the copper how do I ensure ammonia doesnt reach high levels? Should I transfer established rock thats in my sump to the QT tank? Will the copper kill the bacteria? Worried about ammonia levels rising since I will need to add fish as they become infected.

3. Not sure how long I have to keep it in QT before I can add them back but how can I ensure my corals get the influx of nutrients from fish waste? Should I add ammonia daily to the main tank?


Any help would be appreciated. I hate that im going through this but its important to have a game plan and see the light at the end of the tunnel.

I a fish get’s ich in my reef i do absolutely nothing, whatever happens happens, my main concern are my Corals, I have a bunch of cleaner shrimp, and that’s it

 

[Rjukan]

Ok I dont want to feel dumb dor asking a dumb question but do you mean like a sponge you buy at the store to clean dishes?

This.. it will have tons of beneficial bacteria on it if it was in your tank or sump for just such an emergency.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok I dont want to feel dumb dor asking a dumb question but do you mean like a sponge you buy at the store to clean dishes?

Oh no. Some pet stores will have sumps and media area with foam (which we call sponge) that has water pass through and eventually seeded with bacteria culture

 

[Debramb]

Sponge material for HOB filters or canister filters. All your fish will need quarentine at once! I’m so sorry you’re going through this! I failed at quarantine, buying from Dr Reef for new additions. My understanding is rock messes with copper strength. You don’t have seeded sponge so maybe alittle substrate and ammonia alert badge will help!
Best of luck, following for updates
Debramb

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

So I have Ich. Although this is not the worst thing to happen Im trying to keep a cool head about it. Would like to hear thoughts but this is my plan of action so far.

1. Remove livestock that is infected. I have a yellow neon goby that had it first. Then a wrasse who has one speck so far. I ordered a fish trap as catching them is nearly impossible and would require taking all my rock apart which is what I am trying to avoid. Worst case I will take it apart.

2. I set up a quarantine where I will add whatever is infected and do copper treatment. Since I cant add any media to filtrate cause it will remove the copper how do I ensure ammonia doesnt reach high levels? Should I transfer established rock thats in my sump to the QT tank? Will the copper kill the bacteria? Worried about ammonia levels rising since I will need to add fish as they become infected.

3. Not sure how long I have to keep it in QT before I can add them back but how can I ensure my corals get the influx of nutrients from fish waste? Should I add ammonia daily to the main tank?


Any help would be appreciated. I hate that im going through this but its important to have a game plan and see the light at the end of the tunnel.

So - asssuming you have made an accurate diagnosis (you can post pics of the fish if you want us to diagnosis it).

1) You will need to treat all of the fish that have been exposed, even if they don't show symptoms. Otherwise, they can reinfect the other fish when put back together.

2) Yes, your quarantine tank is going to need media with bacteria on it to control the ammonia. If you don't have any established filter media (the sponges they were talking about) you will need to move some rock over to bring the good bacteria in, but after exposure to copper, it can't go back to your main display.

3) The fish whould be treated in the QT with coppersafe for 30 days. Then, they need to be housed there for another 30 days to let the ich "die out" in your main tank. If the main tank has invertebrates in it, just feed them and you won't need to seed it with ammonia to "false feed" the baceria while the fish are out of that tank.

Jay

 

[Aeb1419]

So - asssuming you have made an accurate diagnosis (you can post pics of the fish if you want us to diagnosis it).

1) You will need to treat all of the fish that have been exposed, even if they don't show symptoms. Otherwise, they can reinfect the other fish when put back together.

2) Yes, your quarantine tank is going to need media with bacteria on it to control the ammonia. If you don't have any established filter media (the sponges they were talking about) you will need to move some rock over to bring the good bacteria in, but after exposure to copper, it can't go back to your main display.

3) The fish whould be treated in the QT with coppersafe for 30 days. Then, they need to be housed there for another 30 days to let the ich "die out" in your main tank. If the main tank has invertebrates in it, just feed them and you won't need to seed it with ammonia to "false feed" the baceria while the fish are out of that tank.

Jay

So I do have media from my sump I could use, its chemi pure blue, will it remove the copper if I move the bag to the QT?

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

So I do have media from my sump I could use, its chemi pure blue, will it remove the copper if I move the bag to the QT?

No - not chemical media, do you have any biological media like foam blocks, ceramic media?

 

[MnFish1]

You can also buy a sponge filter as another poster suggested - which requires an air pump - and bottled bacteria. which would avoid all of the potential issues of adding rock etc.

 

[MnFish1]

You can also buy a sponge filter as another poster suggested - which requires an air pump - and bottled bacteria. which would avoid all of the potential issues of adding rock etc.

PS - the bacteria most commonly recommend would be fritz 900 or 9000

 

[Brandont21]

Catching fish at night is way easier as well. A red light helps alot, or if you know where they are use a bright flash light which will daze them for a second. Works everytime for me

 

[Tired]

I a fish get’s ich in my reef i do absolutely nothing, whatever happens happens, my main concern are my Corals, I have a bunch of cleaner shrimp, and that’s it

Cleaner shrimp can't remove ich. The white spots you see on the fish are the fish's immune system reacting, not the ich pathogens themself.

OP, if your tank has ich, every fish in it is infected. Removing only the fish that appear infected won't get rid of the problem. Your tank needs to run fallow (completely fishless) for long enough to let the ich die off. Ideally you should also stir up the sandbed and blast your rocks with a powerhead to help eliminate any anaerobic spots. You can dose nitrates and phosphates if needed, but reducing or stopping water changes may help keep nutrients up.

Yes, just a sponge like you get at the grocery store. Its purpose is to serve as something with a lot of surface area, for the bacteria to attach to. Better to buy one meant for aquariums than a grocery store sponge, though, as the grocery store ones may be somehow treated or contaminated.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Cleaner shrimp can't remove ich. The white spots you see on the fish are the fish's immune system reacting, not the ich pathogens themself.

OP, if your tank has ich, every fish in it is infected. Removing only the fish that appear infected won't get rid of the problem. Your tank needs to run fallow (completely fishless) for long enough to let the ich die off. Ideally you should also stir up the sandbed and blast your rocks with a powerhead to help eliminate any anaerobic spots. You can dose nitrates and phosphates if needed, but reducing or stopping water changes may help keep nutrients up.

Yes, just a sponge like you get at the grocery store. Its purpose is to serve as something with a lot of surface area, for the bacteria to attach to. Better to buy one meant for aquariums than a grocery store sponge, though, as the grocery store ones may be somehow treated or contaminated.

Actually, cleaner shrimps have been shown to remove ich trophonts from fish as well as eating tomonts from the substrate. However, IMO they really don't do this well enough to cure active infections. This paper was a lot more optimistic about that however:

Cleaner shrimp are a sustainable option to treat parasitic disease in farmed fish - Scientific Reports

Chemical use is widespread in aquaculture to treat parasitic diseases in farmed fish. Cleaner fish biocontrols are increasingly used in fish farming as an alternative to medicines. However, cleaner fish are susceptible to some of their clients’ parasites and their supply is largely dependent on...

www.nature.com

Jay

 

[Aeb1419]

Thanks for all the replies. I wjll remove all the fish and add it to the QT. I worry about having 6 fish in a 10 gal though, might need to setup a 2nd QT.

Will dose aminos with no fish in display until Im ready to put the fish back.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Thanks for all the replies. I wjll remove all the fish and add it to the QT. I worry about having 6 fish in a 10 gal though, might need to setup a 2nd QT.

Will dose aminos with no fish in display until Im ready to put the fish back.

What size are the fish? Unless they are really small that 10 gallon tank is going to be too small for them.

Jay

 

[Aeb1419]

I can probably fit 3 at most. So definitely need to set up a 2nd. I was finally able to catch the firefish with a net but the others its impossible. I set up the trap I got and will focus on catching the sick tonight.

Getting alot of mixed reviews on another forum. Many telling me to deal with the ich in the tank rather than removing and stressing them out. Confused on whats the best approach. My goal is to keep the fish alive.