Ich emergency!! Help with medication please!!!!

[Jonathan blackwood]

Raising temp will speed the infection up. If anything, you should be lowering temperatures slowly.

Really!?!!!!?? I've always heard to raise the temp ! Always . What does lowering the temp do if I may ask

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Really!?!!!!?? I've always heard to raise the temp ! Always . What does lowering the temp do if I may ask

Raising the temperature speeds up the life cycle of the parasite. Decreasing the temperature slows down the process.

 

[Humblefish]

What does lowering the temp do if I may ask

There's no conclusive evidence that temperature has any impact on the parasites themselves. However, lowering the temp helps the fish by:

1. Increasing available oxygen in the aquarium
2. Reduces metabolic demands on the fish
3. Decreases the damage from the fish's immune response

FWIW; decreasing SG helps as well for the same reasons listed above.

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

There's no conclusive evidence that temperature has any impact on the parasites themselves. However, lowering the temp helps the fish by:

1. Increasing available oxygen in the aquarium
2. Reduces metabolic demands on the fish
3. Decreases the damage from the fish's immune response

FWIW; decreasing SG helps as well for the same reasons listed above.

So I should lower the salt and lower the temp ? And just ride out with vitamins and Garlic ? And continue the organic medicine?

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

I will try and post pics tomorrow if possible

 

[Humblefish]

So I should lower the salt and lower the temp ? And just ride out with vitamins and Garlic ? And continue the organic medicine?

All of those things will help your fish temporarily manage their symptoms, buy you more time, etc.

But until you treat properly and/or go fallow, this will just be a never-ending problem to deal with.

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

All of those things will help your fish temporarily manage their symptoms, buy you more time, etc.

But until you treat properly and/or go fallow, this will just be a never-ending problem to deal with.

If I set up an emergency QT tank , may I use water from my display tank because it's already established??? But my main concern is that I have herbtana running in the system right now. With that be an issue mixing with copper!?!? If so, should I just use a batch of new mixed water ? And what about adding some type of bio to the QT? So I don't hit spikes and stress the fish out even more. Will it be toxic to mix the organic herbtana water with copper? Or will I not get cycle spike in my QT?

 

[Jofiel]

Give this a read, it should answer 90% of your questions.

You should mix fresh water for the qt if possible. That way the water is clean of any parasites licke ich or velvet and you won't have to worry about any interactions with the Herbtana.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

Give this a read, it should answer 90% of your questions.

You should mix fresh water for the qt if possible. That way the water is clean of any parasites licke ich or velvet and you won't have to worry about any interactions with the Herbtana.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

Thank you very much for this

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

Give this a read, it should answer 90% of your questions.

You should mix fresh water for the qt if possible. That way the water is clean of any parasites licke ich or velvet and you won't have to worry about any interactions with the Herbtana.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

And as fair as the spikes for the QT , I'll just have to do a water change more often ? Until it stabilizes or will I be ok off the start if I add bio into the filter ?

 

[Maritimer]

Watch for spikes in any case (using an ammonia badge), but there are some bacterial products that can give you a head-start. Bio-Spira and Dr. Tim's One-and-Only, from what I've been given to understand, are live ready-to-rumble bacteria. Some of the other products are dormant, and may take a few days to a week or so to really get cranking. Setting up my most recent QT, I used bacterial products - and while I didn't see my ammonia badge change colors, I did notice that the water was unalterably cloudy for the first few weeks, even with water changes. Over the last couple of weeks though, it's cleared up rather nicely.

~Bruce

 

[Frop]

Emergency ich help!!! Please! So I've bought a few fish in the last few days and now I've noticed 2 of my fish have ich. I've been treating with "herbtana" and it's not working. So I've decided to use the last alternative "COPPER". It's going to be a fish only tank. My concern is, since I've used the organic medicine herbtana, can I or should I not combine the two. Copper and herbtana. I'm guessing it will become toxic and kill my fish. If I do a water change and use carbon, will that pull out the herbtana and make it safe to use copper? Or how long do I have to wait to use copper ...??? But I don't wanna wait too long for the ich to worsen please help. I cannot catch the fish to QT either.

Nice tank

 

[Humblefish]

And as fair as the spikes for the QT , I'll just have to do a water change more often ? Until it stabilizes or will I be ok off the start if I add bio into the filter ?

Assuming you are referring to ammonia spikes, you will need to do WCs to control that in the very beginning. However, dosing a bacteria in a bottle product (ex. Seachem Stability, Bio-spira) directly into your biofilter will help alleviate ammonia in time.

Also, if you need to raise copper in QT ASAP, and don't have time to dose bacteria in a bottle before copper kills the bacteria as soon as they hit the water do this:

Place your filter's bio-media (ex. sponge) in a small bucket and seed it there for 4-5 days before adding to your QT. Dose your favorite live nitrifying bacteria product every day, and use an airstone or small powerhead to circulate the water. 4-5 days won't give you a "strong" working biofilter, but it is still something.

 

[Seanb1]

You should get a hospital tank and treat with copper or hypo.
Nothing else will get rid of ich . 71 days Is minimum to be rid of ich.
You also need to keep no fish in the tank for a minimum of 71 days.
If you don't do this your wasting your time.
Don't be stupid and add copper to your tank, you'll ruin your rock and sand.
If your fish die don't run out and buy more, you must keep the display fallow at least 71 days. And when you do get new fish treat them with copper.
There's plenty of info on this.

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

Watch for spikes in any case (using an ammonia badge), but there are some bacterial products that can give you a head-start. Bio-Spira and Dr. Tim's One-and-Only, from what I've been given to understand, are live ready-to-rumble bacteria. Some of the other products are dormant, and may take a few days to a week or so to really get cranking. Setting up my most recent QT, I used bacterial products - and while I didn't see my ammonia badge change colors, I did notice that the water was unalterably cloudy for the first few weeks, even with water changes. Over the last couple of weeks though, it's cleared up rather nicely.

~Bruce

Sounds good! That was my plan thank you

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

Assuming you are referring to ammonia spikes, you will need to do WCs to control that in the very beginning. However, dosing a bacteria in a bottle product (ex. Seachem Stability, Bio-spira) directly into your biofilter will help alleviate ammonia in time.

Also, if you need to raise copper in QT ASAP, and don't have time to dose bacteria in a bottle before copper kills the bacteria as soon as they hit the water do this:

Place your filter's bio-media (ex. sponge) in a small bucket and seed it there for 4-5 days before adding to your QT. Dose your favorite live nitrifying bacteria product every day, and use an airstone or small powerhead to circulate the water. 4-5 days won't give you a "strong" working biofilter, but it is still something.

Cani start the set up of a QT with fresh made water and copper without the bio (4-5) soak ? And then after its soaked up for a few days add it to the filter in the QT? And will it be ok to put the fish in the QT before I add the bio ? Meaning after I set it up and while the bio is in process, I shouldn't have a spike in 4-5 days with the fish in

 

[AllSignsPointToFish]

Cani start the set up of a QT with fresh made water and copper without the bio (4-5) soak ? And then after its soaked up for a few days add it to the filter in the QT? And will it be ok to put the fish in the QT before I add the bio ? Meaning after I set it up and while the bio is in process, I shouldn't have a spike in 4-5 days with the fish in

Yes, you can do this. However, you will still need to monitor ammonia as you will see an increase without a fully established biofilter. Depending on the fish load, the size of the tank, and feeding, the ammonia will need to be monitored more closely as the spike could occur sooner than 4-5 days.

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

Yes, you can do this. However, you will still need to monitor ammonia as you will see an increase without a fully established biofilter. Depending on the fish load, the size of the tank, and feeding, the ammonia will need to be monitored more closely as the spike could occur sooner than 4-5 days.

I'll be using at least a 50 gal tub or larger with 5 fish... 4 of them are large (7-8inches) and one is a small clown. So how does that look for spike time ? If that's even something we can estimate

 

[4FordFamily]

All of those things will help your fish temporarily manage their symptoms, buy you more time, etc.

But until you treat properly and/or go fallow, this will just be a never-ending problem to deal with.

X2

Looks like you're taking great advice, keep it up, op!

 

[Jonathan blackwood]

Yes, you can do this. However, you will still need to monitor ammonia as you will see an increase without a fully established biofilter. Depending on the fish load, the size of the tank, and feeding, the ammonia will need to be monitored more closely as the spike could occur sooner than 4-5 days.

And another question, can I or should I run hypo while I run copper? Or just normal salinity? And what should I run the temp at as well?