Ich in mature tank

omykiss001 · Dec 31, 2015

robert said:
"Hard mechanical filteration" is the easiest (and maybe only) way to mimic the dilution effect of the ocean in our systems. Its often over looked and does take some planning to implement. The nice part is that it is effective against all pathogens which posess a free swimming stage. It doesn't mater if its ich, velvet, a toxic algae, fluke or worm - or even if you have no idea what it is - or how it came to be in the system. It places no negative load on your inhabitants and carries no toxicity. It limits bacterial populations and reduces secondary infection resulting from any source, whether it be disease, stings, collection damage or in tank agression.

A Diatom filter is not the only effective form of filtration, but it is prehaps among the best. For ich and velvet which are physically quite large, a suitably sized paper filter would be sufficient provided the required flow and tank configuration are acheived.

If you have ich or velvet to an extent that fish die, it is an indication that the tank lacks sufficient filteration or is pooly setup for its intended inhabitants. Resolve these issues and you go a long way in preventing future problems which you have not yet encountered. Quarantine, TTM and fallow practices may forstall an infection - but they are reactionary and don't address the fundamental cause of the problem which is the lack of "dilution" present in too many of our systems.

I used these all the time in my graduate work to filter leftover algae we feed to our study animals. We used 5 gallon buckets and it took about 15-20 minutes to clear 5 gallons. On my 180 gallon display to mimic the dilution how much turnover through this filter would I need? Just don't think it would be very practical or cost effective on larger displays unless you have a large dedicated room to house the filtration. I don't doubt there ability to remove these just don't know if it would remove them fast enough without some seriously large turnover of tank volume in addition to our normal filtration turnover.

mcarroll · Dec 31, 2015

It's definitely possible to set up a diatom filter or UV sterilizer that is too small or incorrectly installed, but if you assume you set up the right size unit in the right manner I think it can be a reasonable solution to the lack of dilution.

I think the question then becomes when do you really need something like that? I think only when you are keeping run down fish or operating an unstable system where new organisms are being added from the wild with any frequency. (I.e. a fish store)

Humblefish · Dec 31, 2015

I just got a tang with ich that I am using as my final test subject for CP experimentation. Once that is done, experimenting with a DE is next on my list. Wife only allows so many QTs in our apartment.

mcarroll · Dec 31, 2015

omykiss001 said:
I used these all the time in my graduate work to filter leftover algae we feed to our study animals. We used 5 gallon buckets and it took about 15-20 minutes to clear 5 gallons. On my 180 gallon display to mimic the dilution how much turnover through this filter would I need? Just don't think it would be very practical or cost effective on larger displays unless you have a large dedicated room to house the filtration. I don't doubt there ability to remove these just don't know if it would remove them fast enough without some seriously large turnover of tank volume in addition to our normal filtration turnover.

I don't know a direct answer, but as a starting point:
http://www.diatomfilter.com/products/diatom_xl_canister.htm

That unit is $70, connects via 5/8" ports (presume this means barb connections as it is a cannister filter, pictured with vinyl tubing). It is 1 gallon in size and carries 432 square inches of media surface area.

Here:
http://www.diatomfilter.com/know.htm

They recommend one cannister to be flowing "about 200 gph" when freshly setup and charged.

So you can surely set one or more of these canisters up in parallel to service most home-size tanks. Even 3 XL Cannisters needing a total of 200 gph flow each is only 600 gph. That seems inline with the sump-flow of the largest size home tanks, and not and unreasonable size demand.

Seems like it wouldn't take more than one communication with the manufacturer to know how many for sure.

Their website is very limited and pretty much targets freshwater, but here's a good tidbit - (Click to expand!):

Naturally it is up to the individual to determine how much current his fish can tolerate and how much filtration is necessary, depending on the size of the aquarium and fish. I strongly suggest that all power filtration be turned off for a few hours each day unless it is particularly needed at the time. The Diatom Filter will filter out particles and parasitic life forms down to about one micron in size. We are not particularly after the bacteria. We are after the fish killing parasitic protozoan life forms such Ishthyophtririus Multifiliis (Ich), Chilondonella, Myzobulus Sporozoan, Octonitiasis and other Flagellates, Sporozoa, Leaches, Etc.
It is almost impossible to get rid of all the parasites in an aquarium, but with the proper filtration we can keep the population of parasites low enough so they do not harm healthy fish. Medication sometimes helps, but I am a firm believer that more fish are killed by over treatment with medication than any other cause. Proper filtration is the key.

DeniseAndy · Dec 31, 2015

It is funny this has gone to diatomaceous filtering, I have been looking into them as a more twice a year or so maintenance item. Maybe monthly on my small system. I just cannot decide.