Ich on Hippo Tangs and Likely Foxfaces

[bakbay]

After the move, 3 hippo tangs have ich. Additionally, I’m seeing some dots on the 2 foxfaces as well this morning. I’m making an attempt to catch these fish and QT them. They are all healthy but need to catch them but nearly impossible though.

It’s very likely due to stress in the new environment — would ich goes away on its own? It did for a few days but came back. The FF worries me. All other fish seem ok for now! Should I treat the whole tank?

What are my choices? TIA

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bakbays-450g-final-upgrade.1066683/post-12808298

 

[bakbay]

I have 2x57w UV lights (swapped 1 new bulb last night). There were no signs of ich before and they were ok in the holding tank.

Water params are: 26 NO3, 0.87 PO4. The temperature is “naturally” raised to 82F.

 

[fishguy242]

#fishmedic

 

[threebuoys]

The photos are too dark to accurately confirm your suspicion of Ich. If you can photograph with white light, and ever take a 30 second video, diagnosis would be easier.

If ich, quarantine and treatment with copper following the protocol link below is your best bet. It is not unusual for ich spots to disappear and reappear in different locations when first identified. Over time, if not treated the continual life cycle of the parasite will lead to constant visual confirmation.

While these fish are difficult to capture, some techniques work better than others. I have been successful with makeshift traps and tempting food. a half gallon or full gallon clear plastic fruit juice container works well. Cut the top off, suspend the container in the tank, give the fish plenty of time to get comfortable and he will eventually go far into the container to eat. AT that point, using a string tied to the container, pull the trap up and out of the tank quickly. Takes some practice because the fish are so quick, but it does work.

 

[vetteguy53081]

After the move, 3 hippo tangs have ich. Additionally, I’m seeing some dots on the 2 foxfaces as well this morning. I’m making an attempt to catch these fish and QT them. They are all healthy but need to catch them but nearly impossible though.

It’s very likely due to stress in the new environment — would ich goes away on its own? It did for a few days but came back. The FF worries me. All other fish seem ok for now! Should I treat the whole tank?

What are my choices? TIA

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bakbays-450g-final-upgrade.1066683/post-12808298

These are mucus cones on both fish and likely stemming from a skin irritation. Take a look at water quality which can be a trigger. Often other occupants will not show signs. Both fish will need to be moved to a separate quarantine tank and treated with coppersafe at treatment level 2.25-2.5. Monitor copper levels with Hanna brand test kit and ammonia levels with a reliable test kit for a full 30 days

 

[bakbay]

These are mucus cones on both fish and likely stemming from a skin irritation. Take a look at water quality which can be a trigger. Often other occupants will not show signs. Both fish will need to be moved to a separate quarantine tank and treated with coppersafe at treatment level 2.25-2.5. Monitor copper levels with Hanna brand test kit and ammonia levels with a reliable test kit for a full 30 days

Thanks — I’ve treated the powder blue 3x now so familiar with copper treatment. Water quality seems normal - what should I be testing for?

Catching these 5 fish is a huge PITA — my new tank’s lip is too wide for the fish trap so need to 3D print something fast!

 

[bakbay]

I’m restarting the hospital tank again - painful. I very much dislike (think HATE) this part of the hobby — disease treatment.

 

[bakbay]

While these fish are difficult to capture, some techniques work better than others. I have been successful with makeshift traps and tempting food. a half gallon or full gallon clear plastic fruit juice container works well. Cut the top off, suspend the container in the tank, give the fish plenty of time to get comfortable and he will eventually go far into the container to eat. AT that point, using a string tied to the container, pull the trap up and out of the tank quickly. Takes some practice because the fish are so quick, but it does work.

I’ll try that as well — I do have a fish trap but it doesn’t fit so need to devise something.

 

[bakbay]

This was a week ago after the move — everything was going so well!

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thanks — I’ve treated the powder blue 3x now so familiar with copper treatment. Water quality seems normal - what should I be testing for?

Catching these 5 fish is a huge PITA — my new tank’s lip is too wide for the fish trap so need to 3D print something fast!

Check:
Ammonia (,.025)
ph 8.0-8.3
Nitrate < 30 or below

How are you testing levels?

 

[exnisstech]

I’ve treated the powder blue 3x now so familiar with copper treatment.

Just throwing this out there but maybe just keep an eye on them and see if they fight it off and then manage it. If you don't pull all of the fish and fallow the display the ick is still going to be there when you return the fish to the DT. At least that’s my understanding of how it needs to be done. If I'm not willing to fallow the display I'm not sure I would pull and treat the fish but maybe I'm misunderstanding the treatment methods required to eradicate ich?

 

[bakbay]

My params

I have not tested for Ammonia actually - given that nitrate is 25 (recently retested) Ammonia likely close to zero?

Just throwing this out there but maybe just keep an eye on them and see if they fight it off and then manage it. If you don't pull all of the fish and fallow the display the ick is still going to be there when you return the fish to the DT. At least that’s my understanding of how it needs to be done. If I'm not willing to fallow the display I'm not sure I would pull and treat the fish but maybe I'm misunderstanding the treatment methods required to eradicate ich?

Been watching them the last 2 days and making plans to yank the affected fish out. No - I’m not going to go fallow, I have 40+ fish in the DT.

 

[MrWellington]

Catching these 5 fish is a huge PITA — my new tank’s lip is too wide for the fish trap so need to 3D print something fast!

Yes. And it’s for this very reason I don’t build the reefscape like a monolithic mountain but rather 3-4 separate structures with a small gap in between front to back. Then I can use a clear acrylic to at least isolate the fish to one area of tank. Giving the fish much fewer options.

Could be ich, could be stress. I wouldn’t take any chances personally. Been there, done that. It’s just not worth the risk.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Diagnosing ich versus mucus plugs is tough, and it is VERY common for ich to be the cause of mucus plugs! Spots on the soft portions of the fins, and spots that come and go over time are more likely to be ich. Large spots on just the body, that don't come and go are more likely to be mucus.

Ich management is an option, but it doesn't always work:

"Ich Management"

Because this topic continues to come up, I wanted to create a sticky thread so that it is more easily referenced. Please understand that I am NOT presenting this as an optimum method for controlling marine ich, just putting it out there for people who want to try it. Also, do not pick and...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[bakbay]

Yes. And it’s for this very reason I don’t build the reefscape like a monolithic mountain but rather 3-4 separate structures with a small gap in between front to back. Then I can use a clear acrylic to at least isolate the fish to one area of tank. Giving the fish much fewer options.

Could be ich, could be stress. I wouldn’t take any chances personally. Been there, done that. It’s just not worth the risk.

My system is rather challenging (450g) — took 4 people just to remove the canopy and with corals growing in, it’s going to be very painful to catch fish.

 

[bakbay]

Diagnosing ich versus mucus plugs is tough, and it is VERY common for ich to be the cause of mucus plugs! Spots on the soft portions of the fins, and spots that come and go over time are more likely to be ich. Large spots on just the body, that don't come and go are more likely to be mucus.

Ich management is an option, but it doesn't always work:

"Ich Management"

Because this topic continues to come up, I wanted to create a sticky thread so that it is more easily referenced. Please understand that I am NOT presenting this as an optimum method for controlling marine ich, just putting it out there for people who want to try it. Also, do not pick and...

www.reef2reef.com

Thanks for forwarding the article — I was actually reading it this morning. I think that I’ll need to lower the temp down to 78 and not 82, it’s been hot lately but I do have a chiller.

Will look into Hydrogen Peroxide — have never done this before.