Ich on my tangs

[Keen4]

I have 4 different juvenile tangs. They all have ich after introducing 2 new ones. I’m about to move next week. How do I go about QT them, treating them properly for the several months, also how do I treat the DT (I have a reef and anemones), and lastly should I still save my water as planned and put it back in the tank when I move to the new place which is literally a few doors down and one floor away from my current place.

 

[ShepherdReefer]

Article 'Quarantine Setup Made Easy'

 

[Keen4]

Article 'Quarantine Setup Made Easy'

Cool- so your def saying to quarantine. What about the Dt? What about trying a fresh water dip?

 

[ShepherdReefer]

Here is an article for a fresh-water dip for marine fish. Check it out.

Thread 'Freshwater Dip'

 

[Hugh Mann]

So if they're in your display, you have two primary options.

Eradication: Remove ALL fish from the display and get them into a quarantine tank(s). Treat the ich with whatever method you want, copper, chloroquine, tank transfer, etc. Leave the Display fish less for a minimum of 76. Inverts and coral can remain during this period. Ensure zero cross contamination from quarantine.

Management: maintain pristine water conditions, stress free environment and feed an excellent diet of nori, vitamin enhanced brine shrimp, mysis, lrs pellets, all sorts of good stuff. It may take a few life cycles of the ich, but the fish can fight it off if conditions are right. Some may recommend running a UV sterilizer, but those really only help if they are quite high wattage connected to the sump return line.

 

[Keen4]

So if they're in your display, you have two primary options.

Eradication: Remove ALL fish from the display and get them into a quarantine tank(s). Treat the ich with whatever method you want, copper, chloroquine, tank transfer, etc. Leave the Display fish less for a minimum of 76. Inverts and coral can remain during this period. Ensure zero cross contamination from quarantine.

Management: maintain pristine water conditions, stress free environment and feed an excellent diet of nori, vitamin enhanced brine shrimp, mysis, lrs pellets, all sorts of good stuff. It may take a few life cycles of the ich, but the fish can fight it off if conditions are right. Some may recommend running a UV sterilizer, but those really only help if they are quite high wattage connected to the sump return line.

Great- Im planning on my quarantine tank purchase asap (tomorrow) and ich treatment.

I think I'll go with removing the tangs only for now. They have been feeding on sushi nori (wasn't sure what kind to get) Ive been using Fish Solution by Ecosystem Aquarium for more nutrition added to their brine and broadcast dosing that as well. I do have a pentair 18w UV running from the return line into the DT.

When you say ensure zero cross contamination, you mean to be careful not to ut ich back into the main DT from the quarantine tank? So how exactly would your preference/skill be to do that?

 

[Hugh Mann]

The problem with removing just the tangs, is if there's any fish left, the life cycle will still perpetuate, even if the other fish aren't displaying the characteristic spots and when the tangs are reintroduced, they will just be reinfected.

I don't recall the exact numbers, I'm sure you can find them somewhere but 18w is certainly not enough to make an appreciable dent in the numbers of free swimmers. Fortunately it's not strictly necessary in either case.

By cross contamination I mean not having a single drop of water make it from the quarantine tank to the display. Don't share equipment, keep the quarantine at least 10 feet from the display. Further, or even in another room if possible. No wet hands, nothing. Why this is important is because the fallow period in the Display starves the existing ich to death by removing their food source. This process takes time, and if you get a bunch of water from the quarantine which may contain freshly hatched free swimmers into the Display, you'll have to wait an additional 76 days or risk reinfection.

Julian Sprungs Sea Veggies is my go to for nori. My tang loves it.

 

[Keen4]

The problem with removing just the tangs, is if there's any fish left, the life cycle will still perpetuate, even if the other fish aren't displaying the characteristic spots and when the tangs are reintroduced, they will just be reinfected.

I don't recall the exact numbers, I'm sure you can find them somewhere but 18w is certainly not enough to make an appreciable dent in the numbers of free swimmers. Fortunately it's not strictly necessary in either case.

By cross contamination I mean not having a single drop of water make it from the quarantine tank to the display. Don't share equipment, keep the quarantine at least 10 feet from the display. Further, or even in another room if possible. No wet hands, nothing. Why this is important is because the fallow period in the Display starves the existing ich to death by removing their food source. This process takes time, and if you get a bunch of water from the quarantine which may contain freshly hatched free swimmers into the Display, you'll have to wait an additional 76 days or risk reinfection.

Julian Sprungs Sea Veggies is my go to for nori. My tang loves it.

Thanks a lot. Ok so I can put my QT far away in my bathroom. I do have an extra fluval hob that I was using on my goldfish tank. Will that be salt water safe? Also Im concerned about the QT cycle. How long do I have to wait before treating my fish? will 20 gallons be enough room for 8 fish? what about all of my snails, add them too?

 

[Anthony Scholfield]

Do a search for humblefish (he is a member here) and ICH. you will find all the info you need and then some

 

[Keen4]

Do a search for humblefish (he is a member here) and ICH. you will find all the info you need and then some

I created an account on his site.

 

[artieg1]

You really have to go "all or nothing". "All" is remove all fish and go fallow in DT for prescribed period, and only reintroduce fish that have been cleared of parasites. No point in just removing the tangs. They will just get reinfected when you reintroduce them to the DT, because the parasite (in theory) will still be present.

 

[Hugh Mann]

Thanks a lot. Ok so I can put my QT far away in my bathroom. I do have an extra fluval hob that I was using on my goldfish tank. Will that be salt water safe? Also Im concerned about the QT cycle. How long do I have to wait before treating my fish? will 20 gallons be enough room for 8 fish? what about all of my snails, add them too?

20 gallons is way too small for 8 fish, especially when 4 of them are tangs. Alternatively you can use big rubbermaid bins as a cheaper alternative.

Sponge filters ar recommend over powerfilters typically, though to my knowledge the bacteria in a freshwater system are similar to the saltwater and should work. Plus freshwater diseases cannot effect marine fish. If you're overly concerned, use the filter, and use some media from your display for bacteria.

As for time, while ich is not as deadly as other parasites, it can still be fatal. You'll probably want to start as soon as you possibly can. The hard part will be keeping the fish happy while the display waits out the fallow.

The snails can stay in the tank, as with all other non fish life forms. The ich life cycle requires a fish at one stage. Without fish, it cannot reproduce, and will eventually starve out.

 

[Keen4]

20 gallons is way too small for 8 fish, especially when 4 of them are tangs. Alternatively you can use big rubbermaid bins as a cheaper alternative.

Sponge filters ar recommend over powerfilters typically, though to my knowledge the bacteria in a freshwater system are similar to the saltwater and should work. Plus freshwater diseases cannot effect marine fish. If you're overly concerned, use the filter, and use some media from your display for bacteria.

As for time, while ich is not as deadly as other parasites, it can still be fatal. You'll probably want to start as soon as you possibly can. The hard part will be keeping the fish happy while the display waits out the fallow.

The snails can stay in the tank, as with all other non fish life forms. The ich life cycle requires a fish at one stage. Without fish, it cannot reproduce, and will eventually starve out.

Incredible. Thank you Man- lol pun intended