ICH transmission ,URGENT

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Jay Hemdal said:
What about moving all of the inverts out and running hyposalinity in your main tank? That way, you can avoid copper contamination in your display tank. Hyposalinity will also help against flukes.

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Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2024 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...
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Update on the gamma. Just 9 hours ago the fish had a rapid bloom in spots from approx 3 the night before to around 9-11. This morning, approx 48 hours since noticing the first defined white spots , they’ve seemingly started to fade. The fish is acting very boisterous , hungry , and swimming all around the tank exploring it for the first time since I put it in 4 days ago. I’m sort of confused as to what this means. Does it confirm the presence of ick?
 
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youclowntoomuch said:
Update on the gamma. Just 9 hours ago the fish had a rapid bloom in spots from approx 3 the night before to around 9-11. This morning, approx 48 hours since noticing the first defined white spots , they’ve seemingly started to fade. The fish is acting very boisterous , hungry , and swimming all around the tank exploring it for the first time since I put it in 4 days ago. I’m sort of confused as to what this means. Does it confirm the presence of ick?
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The life cycle of the ich parasite means that the trophonts on the fish will drop off to form tomont. Early in infections, all/most of the parasites are in sync and will drop off about the same time. Watch for spots to return over the next 3 to 7 days - that would better confirm ich.
 
Jay Hemdal said:
The life cycle of the ich parasite means that the trophonts on the fish will drop off to form tomont. Early in infections, all/most of the parasites are in sync and will drop off about the same time. Watch for spots to return over the next 3 to 7 days - that would better confirm ich.
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Well it kind of gives me some breathing room to continue to set up my quarantine tank and cycle it. Not going to lie I was freaking out.
 
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I would remove the inverts, place them in your qt. And then treat your display with copper power keeping the level at 2.0-2.5 for 30 days . At the end of 30 days use a combination of poly filter and cuprisorb and water changes to remove the copper.
I would try to add inverts and corals after poly filter left in your tank doesn’t take on a blue tint after 1 week
Keep your inverts in the qt tank for a minimum until the display is free of copper .
Minimum 76 days
Read up on quarantine moving forward and make a rule to qt everything
 
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mrpizzaface said:
I would remove the inverts, place them in your qt. And then treat your display with copper power keeping the level at 2.0-2.5 for 30 days . At the end of 30 days use a combination of poly filter and cuprisorb and water changes to remove the copper.
I would try to add inverts and corals after poly filter left in your tank doesn’t take on a blue tint after 1 week
Keep your inverts in the qt tank for a minimum until the display is free of copper .
Minimum 76 days
Read up on quarantine moving forward and make a rule to At everything
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What’s the best way of knowing that my tank and live rock /sand is free of copper and good for coral? Or is it safe to say that the live rock would be a write off?
 
I had this exact situation happen to me with a Royal Gramma. After a day or two I noticed the white spots and within a couple days after that he was being eaten by my CUC. It infected my Clowns and Watchman Goby. I didn't want to take a chance at treating the display because I was going to add coral, so I decided to set up a QT tank and treat with copper and let the DT go fallow for a couple of months. That was six months ago and I haven't seen any sign of Ich coming back. If you do treat the DT tank your better off getting rid of the live rock so I doesn't leach copper back into the system.
 
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youclowntoomuch said:
What’s the best way of knowing that my tank and live rock /sand is free of copper and good for coral? Or is it safe to say that the live rock would be a write off?
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No, the rock will not be a write off. If you use cuprisorb in a reactor and polyfilter ( polyfilter is a name brand for a product the removes toxins from your water) religiously I have had the copper gone in 3 months, I also do 20% water changes weekly. You probably need to change the poly filter weekly and when it no longer turns blue you should be safe to add coral and inverts. I would first try a crab and a snail to see how it goes b4 adding a lot. People will tell you this won’t work, but they are wrong this can and will work.
Would be helpful to have a Hanna copper checker to maintain the appropriate copper levels.
 
youclowntoomuch said:
Bought a royal gramma this past weekend. Was told by my LFS that gramma do not need quarantine. Introduced the fish to the tank and it was completely free and clear of any visible health issues. A little skittish but otherwise hungry and coming out to eat. 24 hours ago I noticed 2 spots on its tail fin, today I noticed 3-5 other small white spots with one being closer to the gills and 2-3 being on the dorsal. I went and bought a quarantine tank to handle this problem. Does anyone have any links to good literature/ posts on how to handle this the right way? Everything I seem to read tells a different story. I hate to be the guy asking questions that have already been answered but I’m feeling confused by the sheer amount of people saying different things.
Also will I have to remove all fish? Since the new one has just started showing does that mean that the ick hasn’t settled into the substrate? Thanks in advance
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Good advice in here already...just dropping in to say if someone hasn't already, don't trust this LFS anymore.

There are some fish that are known to be resistant to disease, but no fish to my knowledge that are immune/incapable of being a carrier. The answer is universally you should quarantine or pay for someone else to do so for you. Even people who charge a premium to pre-QT before selling to you often recommend you QT just in case they messed up. If a LFS tells you something different and can't prove they took the proper steps to ensure that the fish is disease free (very rare...you would know because of the price tag), they are either incompetent or shady.

EDIT: Note I am not saying you have to...many don't...just that a professional answer is always that you should.
 
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jmcdona6 said:
Good advice in here already...just dropping in to say if someone hasn't already, don't trust this LFS anymore.

There are some fish that are known to be resistant to disease, but no fish to my knowledge that are immune/incapable of being a carrier. The answer is universally you should quarantine or pay for someone else to do so for you. Even people who charge a premium to pre-QT before selling to you often recommend you QT just in case they messed up. If a LFS tells you something different and can't prove they took the proper steps to ensure that the fish is disease free (very rare...you would know because of the price tag), they are either incompetent or shady.

EDIT: Note I am not saying you have to...many don't...just that a professional answer is always that you should.
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Well I definitely want to do things right. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. In this case I introduced a sick fish to my healthy tank. Smh.
 
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mrpizzaface said:
No, the rock will not be a write off. If you use cuprisorb in a reactor and polyfilter ( polyfilter is a name brand for a product the removes toxins from your water) religiously I have had the copper gone in 3 months, I also do 20% water changes weekly. You probably need to change the poly filter weekly and when it no longer turns blue you should be safe to add coral and inverts. I would first try a crab and a snail to see how it goes b4 adding a lot. People will tell you this won’t work, but they are wrong this can and will work.
Would be helpful to have a Hanna copper checker to maintain the appropriate copper levels.
Click to expand...
I don’t have a reactor as my tank is only 15g AIO Fluval setup
 
jmcdona6 said:
Good advice in here already...just dropping in to say if someone hasn't already, don't trust this LFS anymore.

There are some fish that are known to be resistant to disease, but no fish to my knowledge that are immune/incapable of being a carrier. The answer is universally you should quarantine or pay for someone else to do so for you. Even people who charge a premium to pre-QT before selling to you often recommend you QT just in case they messed up. If a LFS tells you something different and can't prove they took the proper steps to ensure that the fish is disease free (very rare...you would know because of the price tag), they are either incompetent or shady.
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youclowntoomuch said:
I don’t have a reactor as my tank is only 15g AIO Fluval setup
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I would still proceed in this direction aquamaxx used to make a small reactor, but you can put the cuprisorb in a bag in one of your chambers
 
Since your tank is only 15 gallons you could up the water changes to 50% per week until the copper is gone
 
mrpizzaface said:
Since your tank is only 15 gallons you could up the water changes to 50% per week until the copper is gone
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Sounds good. I wasn’t planning on corals for some time anyways. Since the lights are so expensive. How do you offset the lack of cleanup crew in the tank? Will those large water changes help?

Also I found some promising reactors for my tank.
 
youclowntoomuch said:
Sounds good. I wasn’t planning on corals for some time anyways. Since the lights are so expensive. How do you offset the lack of cleanup crew in the tank? Will those large water changes help?

Also I found some promising reactors for my tank.
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Weekly large water changes and you will be fine
 
WWC
youclowntoomuch said:
Well I definitely want to do things right. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. In this case I introduced a sick fish to my healthy tank. Smh.
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Happens to us all at least once. When I started, I was an idiot and spent thousands on pre-QT fish only to take a gamble on a Mandarin from the LFS. Its part of the process...
 
I'm sorry about the difficulties you're having! Try to stay positive, and seek advice from here and not that LFS, as mentioned.

youclowntoomuch said:
No indication whether captive or wild.
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If that fish was captive raised or bred, the fish store would have made that very well known to you. That's a huge selling point. If a fish is not specifically listed as captive raised, assume that it is wild caught.
 
youclowntoomuch said:
Do you know if the brs mini would work for this scenario? It says it’s made for carbon
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No, that reactor is meant for a sump situation, not really for your tank (if it's a Fluval All-In-One tank).

I'm sorry if I missed this, but what Fluval tank do you have? I thought they all included a light? And, I would think they'd include a media basket. You don't *need* a reactor for your tank, you can simply run carbon or other media in a media basket in your filter section, something like this:

 
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Fish Fan said:
No, that reactor is meant for a sump situation, not really for your tank (if it's a Fluval All-In-One tank).

I'm sorry if I missed this, but what Fluval tank do you have? I thought they all included a light? And, I would think they'd include a media basket. You don't *need* a reactor for your tank, you can simply run carbon or other media in a media basket in your filter section, something like this:

Click to expand...
I have the 15 Fluval flex. It has 3 chambers and I’ve seen some other nano reactors. New to this side of the hobby
 
Fish Fan said:
I'm sorry about the difficulties you're having! Try to stay positive, and seek advice from here and not that LFS, as mentioned.


If that fish was captive raised or bred, the fish store would have made that very well known to you. That's a huge selling point. If a fish is not specifically listed as captive raised, assume that it is wild caught.
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Unfortunately it’s a sad state of affairs in saltwater in Spokane. Luckily there seem to be some knowledgeable guys looking to start a higher quality shop in the near future. I’m excited for that
 

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