Ich/Velvet ID

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So I think I might be able to keep enough water in to cover th me bulk of the corals but just a few SPS will be in the air for maybe 10-15 minutes. My tank is tall (36” to be exact) so maybe if I get it down to 1/3 full I can get everyone.
Yup. Play it by ear a bit. The sps will be ok.
Hopefully it won't take much.
 
I agree that was definitely velvet but I am very late to the party, sorry. I'm guessing that guy didn't make it :(. By the time we see exterior spots, the films are typically already severely affected so by this point fish are usually in dire straights. Sometimes savable but not usually.

Keep us posted, sorry for arriving late!
 
Sucks to read your story, but I want to commend the group for not being full on xxx about it. I also want to commend the OP for willing to spend the money to try and bring the tank and fish back. I wish you luck on your struggle and sorry about the losses.
 
So after 4 hours, countless expletives, 7 brute containers, and removing 200lbs+ of rock - the DT is now fallow. :rolleyes: I've gotten everyone in the HT and fed them a good meal tonight (most of them did eat as well). I still can't find our Midas Blenny since adding him to the HT and our Diamond Goby just jumped out a small opening on the side (fortunately I heard him and put him back in the HT quickly). I've temporarily got a fabric screen clipped over most of the HT but let me know if you have any other recommendations as I'm heading back to Lowes tomorrow.

Now to the cooper concentration. I tested and I'm currently at 1.0ppm concentration with CopperSafe (chelated). Tonight will also be 48 hours since I introduced the others, so I know I need to get it up. Question is what level - do I go to 2.0 or do I go to 1.5 then do the other 0.5 tomorrow? ;Bookworm Tagging @Humblefish for input

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I think that if you get to 1.5 or 1.75 tonight, you can bump to 2.0 in the morning. With chelated copper, 1.5 is therapeutic; 2.0 is insurance against life's little maybes and what-ifs.

~Bruce

Thanks, gone ahead and dosed to get to 1.5!
 
I think that if you get to 1.5 or 1.75 tonight, you can bump to 2.0 in the morning. With chelated copper, 1.5 is therapeutic; 2.0 is insurance against life's little maybes and what-ifs.

~Bruce
Agreed. I've done it before too - taking everything apart to go fallow -- several times. It's not much fun.
 
Just to point something out, I did bring over about a pound of sand with the new inhabitants. I have two Blue Star Leopard Wrasses and the DWG who need the sand (or it will keep them calm). I did this previously for both a few years back as well! ;)
 
A lot of folks will use roughly that much sand in a tupperware (gladware) container for sand-sleeping wrasses.

Test your copper regularly, (daily isn't a horrible idea...) to ensure that the sand doesn't absorb it. If it does, replenish.

~Bruce
 
A lot of folks will use roughly that much sand in a tupperware (gladware) container for sand-sleeping wrasses.

Test your copper regularly, (daily isn't a horrible idea...) to ensure that the sand doesn't absorb it. If it does, replenish.

~Bruce

Yep and that's my plan - testing daily!
 
@Maritimer has got you covered. :)
So when are you going to start offering some super-quarantined fish for sale? I feel there is a big gap in the market in terms of "trusting" various vendors - despite personal experiences - and I, for one, would be willing to pay significantly more for truly quarantined/conditioned fish. Seems there is a market to be exploited ;)
 
So when are you going to start offering some super-quarantined fish for sale? I feel there is a big gap in the market in terms of "trusting" various vendors - despite personal experiences - and I, for one, would be willing to pay significantly more for truly quarantined/conditioned fish. Seems there is a market to be exploited ;)
+1 on this
 
Quick update - no other jumpers (I can find) overnight and no losses in the HT. Everyone is accounted for with the exception of the Midas Blenny again and the female Blue Star Leopard Wrasse (who I presume is buried in the sand most likely). The male Blue Star scared me a bit as when I went in this morning he was on his side but when I came back down he was swimming around and doesn't appear to be breathing heavily so maybe he was just being weird. Plan is to do a quick feeding and then bump up the copper to 2.0 in the next few hours.
 
So when are you going to start offering some super-quarantined fish for sale? I feel there is a big gap in the market in terms of "trusting" various vendors - despite personal experiences - and I, for one, would be willing to pay significantly more for truly quarantined/conditioned fish. Seems there is a market to be exploited ;)

I still have plans to do it. Wife & I are currently on this cross country road trip trying to figure out where we wanna live. After that gets settled, I will get setup to do this.
 
Everyone ate well and I've upped the concentration to 2.0 (or what I think should be 2.0). I'll give it an hour or two to mix in the flow and will re-test just to confirm everything is where it's expected. With the Achilles' passing, I was considering getting a Powder Blue Tang. Would it be possible to add him to the HT (understanding of course I need to re-start the clock on the 30 days of Copper) so they can all go back into the DT after the fallow period together? My preference is to get all of this done in one-shot vs. multiple batches of QT if possible but figured I would ask.
 
With the Achilles' passing, I was considering getting a Powder Blue Tang. Would it be possible to add him to the HT (understanding of course I need to re-start the clock on the 30 days of Copper) so they can all go back into the DT after the fallow period together? My preference is to get all of this done in one-shot vs. multiple batches of QT if possible but figured I would ask.

I strongly recommend just focusing on the challenge that's in front of you and not adding anymore fish the equation. You risk introducing flukes, brook, a bacterial infection or some other disease which copper does not treat. And that would only compound the problem.

BTW, nice video. Is it OK if I use it the next time someone tells me they can't catch all their fish, go fallow, etc.?
;)
 
I strongly recommend just focusing on the challenge that's in front of you and not adding anymore fish the equation. You risk introducing flukes, brook, a bacterial infection or some other disease which copper does not treat. And that would only compound the problem.

BTW, nice video. Is it OK if I use it the next time someone tells me they can't catch all their fish, go fallow, etc.?
;)

Wouldn't I, in theory, be treating for all of that anyway now that I have everyone in HT? I would assume during the fallow period I would hit them with everything I got to ensure when they go back into the DR they have no ailments.

Edit: also to add, my thought was with the aggression later down the road. I know the suggestion is to always add tangs at the same time to the DT to reduce fighting, so I'd hate to put the PBT at a disadvantage after every gets through QT/fallow.

On the video, absolutely if you're willing to QT a few fish for me ;) Haha! Seriously though, yes, feel free to use that as well as the photos earlier in the thread of the infection on the Achilles/Harley. While I wish I could have saved them maybe some good can come from the pics/video which will help others in similar circumstances.
 
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Wouldn't I, in theory, be treating for all of that anyway now that I have everyone in HT? I would assume during the fallow period I would hit them with everything I got to ensure when they go back into the DR they have no ailments.

I would only prophylactically treat with Prazipro (for flukes) and only after copper is complete. All other diseases which require different medications show obvious physical symptoms. Ich, flukes and sometimes velvet are the "hidden diseases" I treat for without waiting for obvious signs to show up. Remember, all medications are essentially bad for fish and you have to weigh the risk/reward of preemptive treatment. By adding a PBT into the mix right now, you may be forced to expose all of your fish to antibiotics or some other medication they don't currently need.

Edit: also to add, my thought was with the aggression later down the road. I know the suggestion is to always add tangs at the same time to the DT to reduce fighting, so I'd hate to put the PBT at a disadvantage after every gets through QT/fallow.

If you add a decent sized PBT down the road, you won't have to worry about it being bullied. More likely the other way around. ;)
 

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