UV won't eliminate ich. Either you have ich and don't know it or you have been lucky. No quarantine is like playing Russian Roulette, the end is usually the same...some just get to play the game longer than others.
Back to his issue, like you said fish can treat in fresh mix SW then how long? And after treatment where is fish going? Because the DT still long long way to treat for almost 2 1/2 months. After treatment those fishes had deal thru the QT cycled.You can actually put fish in freshly mixed SW once the salt is thoroughly dissolved. I prefer at least 12 hrs mixing time, but in a pinch I've done it after only 4-6 hrs. However, once the fish is in SW it is only a matter of time before ammonia starts to build up (typically, 72 hrs). The solutions to that problem are as follows:
In a DT, your bio-filter is typically rock, sand, bio-pellets, etc. However, in a QT with just a few fish a simple HOB filter can be used for biological filtration. I personally use an Aquaclear HOB power filter, utilizing the “foam insert” i.e. sponge it comes with. I “seed” the sponge (or multiples) in a high flow area of my DT’s sump (or you can put it behind your rocks) for at least one month prior to QT. This one month allows time for enough beneficial bacteria to transfer onto the sponge, so that it may be used as biological filtration once placed back in the power filter and used in QT. An alternative (albeit expensive) way to instantly seed your sponge is to pour some Bio-Spira, Seachem Stability or Dr Tim's Nitrifying Bacteria over it just prior to use. Below is a pic of the Aquaclear HOB power filter and correlating “foam” sponge (you can buy additional sponges cheaply):
- Ammonia reducer (temporary solution and not a good idea when using meds)
- Water changes
- Establish a working bio-filter to break down the ammonia (permanent solution to the problem)
My apologies to the OP for going a bit OT here; but hopefully this information will also help you setup a QT to treat your damsel.
So long as the OP keeps his bio-load reasonable (in this case, just 1 damsel) fish can live in such a QT setup for months with minimal water changes. Mainly just sucking fish poop/uneaten food off the bottom because it looks unsightly (I use airline tubing.) You can also scoop it out with a fine mesh net (ex. brine shrimp net).
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I personally am not a fan of copper. The survival rate of fish in hypo is much higher. It is unlikely that anyone would have hypo resistant cryptocaryon pathogens in their tank. As for maintaining parameters, it does take everyday maintenance. I would change 50% of the water everyday in the qt, also make sure you stay at 1.008 and no higher than that, or lower than 1.0075. It is likely that you're fish will get post cryptocaryon infections, so I suggest treating the water with antibiotics in conjuction with hypo. Most copper instructions don't recommend mixing any medication with it, which is why I love hypo. I had saved many of fish this way. Every fish in my tank has had hypo for a minimum of 14 days at 1.008 SG, never a casualty and no sign of cryptocaryon in my display. Fish tend not to eat very well in copper, it's bad news.
Not sure why you think you need bacteria in the water. He can leave the DT fish less for the 78 days and put his one little fish in a small 5.5g bare bottom tank with a small heater and a small powerhead/filter unit. This can be done under $40. Hypo that fish and change 50% of the water a day, that way you never give a chance for the tank to cycle. Have 5g buckets pre mixed for changing water. Once you get the system down its easy. All fish in my system have had success with this. I have treated an outbreak with 100% success.
I would recommend not using bacteria, and never let the qt a chance to cycle. Very large water changes daily will allow for a healthy environment, and there will never be a question of ammonia, and N02 in the tank. Use a small 5.5 gal, that way water changes are affordable and antibiotics which you will need to cure the infections your fish will get from post ich (cryptocaryon).
