Ich?

  • Thread starter Thread starter RandU
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Thanks that’s a good read. So this will help until I can set up and do a proper QT
 
Is there a way I can safely move the Coral from my infected tank to my new tank? Does Coral rx kill ich? If I could safely move the Coral then I could knock the rocks down catch all the fish and QT them and once they are done in QT I could put them in my new tank. Meanwhile I can take down the ich tank and house the live rock in a barrel for 76 days.
 
Is there a way I can safely move the Coral from my infected tank to my new tank? Does Coral rx kill ich? If I could safely move the Coral then I could knock the rocks down catch all the fish and QT them and once they are done in QT I could put them in my new tank. Meanwhile I can take down the ich tank and house the live rock in a barrel for 76 days.

I would not move anything into new display. Leave it where it is at until the 76 day fallow period is complete. There is nothing that can succesfully remove parasites from corals other than time. You basically have to let anything that is encysted upon coral, hatch and become free swimming. The fishless part is what allows the free swimming stage of the parasite to die off since it has no fish to attach to and breaks the cycle.
 
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Another option would be to put it all in rubbermaid tote to catch the fish, just keep a heater/powerhead/light on the tote. Use the tote as your coral QT. Or move it back to the tank once fish are caught and let it be fallow.
 
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I do have a 150g Rubbermaid stock tank I could put 10” of water in that and keep them there for 76 days. Then move them to my new 220g tank. And while that is going on I can QT the fish in another tank then move them to the 220 and break the ich tank down.
 
I do have a 150g Rubbermaid stock tank I could put 10” of water in that and keep them there for 76 days. Then move them to my new 220g tank. And while that is going on I can QT the fish in another tank then move them to the 220 and break the ich tank down.
That would definitely work.
Things to keep in mind when you have a "Clean" DT, and QT's running.
You have to be careful of cross contamination. Make sure you keep your RO water source/coral QT/Fish Qt/and DT all at least 10' from each other to prevent aerosol transmission. I keep mine in separate rooms on separate floors, which I know is not always an option for everyone. The other thing is anytime you are topping off water, make sure you use a sterile dry bucket. I dip RO water from a brute can, with a designated bucket I only use for that purpose. Then transfer it to another bucket that is dry, to make sure no splash back can ever contaminate my supply. I am probably a bit over cautious, but It takes so much work keeping a "clean" DT, and one little slip puts you back to square 1.
Feeding, always start with clean tank then move to QT. Especially with nori on a clip. May not be an issue for you this round, but when you get to the point that you have fish in a DT and a new batch of QT its much more critical. I again am overly cautious, and keep separate food containers for my DT and QT.
 
Should I QT my 6 line wrasse with everything else and hope for the best?
 
Here is way to catch your fish in DT. Cut a piece of egg create that will be able to seal off a third of your tank. Move all rocks and corals to other two third of tank. Lay egg create in tank so it could raised to section off tank. Herd fish to open area, raise egg create. If fish hides in a rock or coral move piece to open area raise egg create and wait till fish comes out, remove hiding place. Good luck
 
So I must have transferred ich to my new 220g before I knew I had ich. Now I have a whole new dilemma. Now I need to get the fish out of both tanks and into QT. There are 2 chromis and an algae blenny in the 220 I have no idea how I am going to catch. My plan is to put all of the fish (4 tangs, foxface, flame angle, royal gramma, 2 clowns, 2 chromis and blenny) into a 150gallon rubbermaid stock tub. I will qt them in there for 76 day while the tank sits fallow. My 220 has been up and running for 3 months and my 90 I was planning to break down to move everything to the 220 has been running around 2 years. I would like to move all of the coral to the 220 but im nervous that the tank is not mature enough yet. If I moved all of the rock from the 90 to the 220 would that make the tank established enough to handle all of the corals? Thanks
 
If I moved all of the rock from the 90 to the 220 would that make the tank established enough to handle all of the corals?

You’ll probably be fine, although a mini-cycle is not unheard of when moving LR from one tank to another. I would put a Seachem ammonia alert badge on the 220 and have a bottle of ammonia reducer handy just in case.
 

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