Ich
- Thread starter Nathan Aubin
- Start date
- Tagged users None
There isn't much you can do but feed it well if you won't consider quarantine.
What size is your tank? Current parameters? Other inhabitants? Feeding schedule?
Hopefully @HotRocks @4FordFamily and @Humblefish can help you out.
What size is your tank? Current parameters? Other inhabitants? Feeding schedule?
Hopefully @HotRocks @4FordFamily and @Humblefish can help you out.
There is no reef safe treatment options. I don't see any corals. If you are FOWLR you could try hyposalinity though there are hypo resistant strains.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
Sorry but it’s remove the fish and treat with copper in quarantine to do it right. Otherwise, you risk losing many fish, that’s a pretty bad ich infestation.
jsvand5
Valuable Member
If you don’t have inverts you can do hypo. Need a good refractometer and an auto too off. Best bet is to pull all fish though. More than any other fish, not running tangs through QT before going into the display is very likely to introduce ich.
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Nathan Aubin
Community Member
90 gallon my return is a ecotech vector m1 I run a tunze 6095 for current I have 2 frost bite clowns a solar wrasse yellow tang 2 orange spotted gobies a yellow pistol shrimp 2 emerald crabs and a conch
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Nathan Aubin
Community Member
So we are moving to setting up a hospital tank. 40 gallons. Seeing that I am only putting fish in with no substrate or live rock do I need to cycle it. Also should I treat the entire tank all fish or just a the ones showing signs of ich. And is it difficult to use copper.
You need to do some serious reading up on the fish disease forum found here https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/fish-disease-treatment-and-diagnosis.771/
Especially the stickies at the top of the page.
If your goal is to eliminate ich from your display tank, you’ll need to remove and treat all fish, then let the display tank remain fallow for 76 days.
Also, you’ll probably want to cycle the tank or use bottled bacteria to jump start it given the length of qt needed.
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Nathan Aubin
Community Member
I’ve read lots on the subject and it seems like there are lots of different schools when it comes to treating ich. However I’m trying to find a method that will work. I’ve never dealt with it in the past and I’m sure it’s a result of stress on my fish. I put in a very small hippo tang and my solar wrasse has been bullying it. The ich is here so before the hippo dies I’d like to treat it. I’ve read that setting up a Hospital tank is my best bet. Do you have any suggestions into how I go about it. I’d like to get this set up sooner than later and use it for quarantine before I add and as a treatment tank now.
4FordFamily
Tang, Angel, and Wrasse Nerd!
Copper is not difficult to use, I recommend the Hanna copper checker and copper power. BioSpira is how we handle the lack of a cycle, it is a miracle in a bottle!
Auquanut
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My Tank Thread
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'll soon be taking down a 53 gal FW tank that I intend to use as a hospital tank for FW or SW. Since it won't be filled until needed, just wondering how long the copper power and BioSpira can be stored in the bottle so it can be on hand when needed.
miyags
Valuable Member
Do you have any type of filter on display tank?or a filter sock thats been in there for a month?Or a LFS that my use a hang on back type filter,you can ask to buy them a new filter floss for their old one thats been seeded?Thats why I always have 2 foam filters floating in my sump.They are only about 4$ each.
miyags
Valuable Member
Move all fish to hospital tank,you can use tank water. treat all fish with copper.Get an ammonia badge from SeaChem.Ammonia is what kills most fish in a hospital tank,not the copper.leave main display fishless for 76 days,thats the hard part.Have plenty of salt and saltwater on hand for quick water changes.
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Nathan Aubin
Community Member
Are you referring to cycling the hospital tank
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Nathan Aubin
Community Member
I keep 25 gallons of salt on hand at all times and 50 gallons of ro water. What about using both methods. Isolate the fish displaying serious symptoms and then using my AWC system institute hyposalinity on my DT
