Ick or?

He actually looks to have less spots than he did before. Your probably dealing with ick and that's why he's still alive. The white spots will mostly be gone in another day or so and the life cycle continues from there. We weren't sure at the beginning which one it was, but it could be that it was ick which is good news really.
 
It does seem that way.

Ttm will prove difficult for me but i shall read up on it.

I suppose i should look into all of my options and find the most suitable one.
 
It does seem that way.

Ttm will prove difficult for me but i shall read up on it.

I suppose i should look into all of my options and find the most suitable one.

That's best. There is more than one good way to do it, it's more about picking the one you can pull off the best.
 
Velvet trophonts remain on a fish for as little as 12 hours or as long as 4 days (dependent upon strain). Ich trophonts have a 3-7 day lifespan. So, if the spots are still there after 4 days it must be ich.
 
Velvet trophonts remain on a fish for as little as 12 hours or as long as 4 days (dependent upon strain). Ich trophonts have a 3-7 day lifespan. So, if the spots are still there after 4 days it must be ich.
I see so many opinions on ich. Some would point to the stress of the new home caused an outbreak and as it destresses in its new environment the ich will go dormant and to leave it. As they feel all tanks are potentially infected with ich...


Others would say treat one way or another.

I will let some time to cool off go and monitor my DT fish as well as the tang for a while before the reintrodction. As the difficult part of going fallow in my tank would be catching the bi color blenny lol.

If you guys have any input on this idea im open to it. I definantly do not wish any fish to lose their lives. Not even bully blue damsel
 
If you guys have any input on this idea im open to it

I can't tell you exactly what to do. I'll say what I would do (and have done) and that's take them all out, go fallow and treat the existing fish. It's well worth it to me for the peace of mind. While your looking into the treatment options for ick, make sure to check out the thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/ to give some insight into just riding it out vs. actually treating the fish. It may help you with your decision.
 
Get a cleaner shrimp. I used to run into problems with my fish with ich and ever since I got two cleaner shrimp I haven't had any issues. They eat the parasites
 
Get a cleaner shrimp. I used to run into problems with my fish with ich and ever since I got two cleaner shrimp I haven't had any issues. They eat the parasites

Cleaner shrimp cannot eat ich, because trophonts burrow in under the epithelium (outer skin layer). What you are seeing them pick at is dead skin tissue.
 
Cleaner shrimp cannot eat ich, because trophonts burrow in under the epithelium (outer skin layer). What you are seeing them pick at is dead skin tissue.
Ive done alot of reading on this and it has alot of....controversy, lol. But the general concensus is it is possible for them to pick them of before they burrow into the skin, however it is unlikley. I read a study where they ran a test and checked the stomach contents of several cleaner shrimp in a tank with ich infected fish to find no trace of them digesting it. So i agree here.

Also side note i stopped at home for lunch and the white spots are nearly gone. Im debating using ick managment for a short while. I have some light and hood work to do in the near future and since i will have the top fully off then i will start my qt, treatment and fallow. I have work ahead of me to catch the blenny in a 90gal.

Update pic
1466091553026-1577831934.jpg
 
I will do, this is only short term untill i fund the finialle of my lightsysten. So a few months. Then i will irradicate it. I dont want it in my tank. Thanks for the good info
 

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