Ick

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Other fish are fine and he doesn’t look like he has any type of slime on him.
 
Avast
I do see some white dots on him maby flukes as well. Keep us updated and good luck!
 
Nutramar Foods
Okay well I’m going to go buy a small tank, heater and filter. Going to qt this guy but what’s the best way to start a qt tank for him.
 
Small tank heater and a hob filter with a sponge. Use bio spira and keep an eye on ammonia like others have stated. I never had an issue with ammonia in my qt when using bacteria in a bottle. I also use a sea chem ammonia badge. You can do a freshwater dip to look for flukes they will fall off and also help provide relief. I’m pretty sure there is a broad spectrum qt treatment guide posted in the disease forums I’ll see if I can find it for ya!

I use chloroquine phosphate for itch/velvet
 
WWC
I have noticed that the fish that have survived my ick invasion no longer show signs of it however any new fish added is doomed any reason why? Is it possible they built up an immunity to it?
 
Justsomedude said:
I have noticed that the fish that have survived my ick invasion no longer show signs of it however any new fish added is doomed any reason why? Is it possible they built up an immunity to it?
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Your tank has the ick parasite present and your current fish are fighting it off through their immune system. New fish are stressed and weaker allowing it to take over. The tank has to become fish less for a length of time to allow the parasite to die off. If you read through the stickies on the disease forum section it will teach you all ya need to know about identification and treatment routes. Good luck!
 
I just don’t know how to go fishless with over 3k worth of fish in the system I have nowhere to put them
 
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Justsomedude said:
I just don’t know how to go fishless with over 3k worth of fish in the system I have nowhere to put them
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Yea that sounds like a tough one. In that case may the strongest survive. Got a pic of your tank? 3k worth of fish sounds like a very nice collection!
 
Also I use tap water with dechlorinator that way it’s easier to do water changes but with a tank so small and only two clowns to qt it should be easy. Always QT! lol
 
I personally don't try to cure fish against Ich anymore. I tried in the past, succeeded, but recently was able to see my own fish catching ich and getting rid of it by themselves. Maybe the evolution of reef aquaria? Not sure...
 
AS
Yeah but all it takes is that one stressor event to cause another outbreak. I see what you’re saying but IMO it’s best to work up stream and prevent any disease. I’ve learned that the hard way
kiMxD said:
I personally don't try to cure fish against Ich anymore. I tried in the past, succeeded, but recently was able to see my own fish catching ich and getting rid of it by themselves. Maybe the evolution of reef aquaria? Not sure...
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Jurgen Frenz said:
Yeah but all it takes is that one stressor event to cause another outbreak. I see what you’re saying but IMO it’s best to work up stream and prevent any disease. I’ve learned that the hard way
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That´s true, any new additions to the tank will cause a small outbreak. I guess I just don´t care anymore cause I know they can fight it off. But you´re right, if you want to be on the safe side, quarantine and treat them all.
 
mraysberg said:
I have a fluval evo 13.5 tank right now. I have a bunch of different corals. I have 2 clowns, 2 firefish, and a cleaner shrimp. 1 of my clowns seems to have ick. What’s the best way to get rid of it without having a quarantine tank. My tank is running at 78 degrees at the moment
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Are you sure it's ich? Clowns generally don't exhibit symptoms of ich even if they are a carrier. Early Brook can appear to be ich as well.
 
Deltec
tmcca said:
You have to take the sick fish out and use the transfer method:

Remember that tank should just have an air stone no sand; etc..

You can also try lowering salinity but has to be done slowly and don't have experience in that. I do with the transfer method.

Using the transfer method
The transfer method is perhaps one of the oldest and still remains one of the best ways to treat marine ich.

The basic premise with the transfer method is that you move the infected fish to a clean, disinfected tank every few days. After the move, you clean and dry the old tank, removing any cysts and after a few more days, move the fish back to the first tank. When you do this, the parasites that fall off the fish never get a chance to reproduce and reattach to the fish, so after a few cycles of this, once all the parasites fall off and get removed, the fish have been cured.

In 1987, Colorni wrote about this. If you want to use his method of saltwater ich treatment, simply transfer your fish to a clean tank on days 1, 4, 7 and 10, cleaning and drying the alternate tank for at least 24 hours in between uses.

The reason I consider this to still be one of the oldest and best methods for saltwater ich treatment is that even if your fish are infected with a persistent strain of the parasite, like the parasites in the studies that survived as a cyst for 72 days and 5 months, respectively, the saltwater ich will all be removed and either cleaned out or killed during the 24 hour dry period. This mitigates the advantages that even the most persistent strains would have.
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You have to remove all the fish - from the tank - and leave the tank fallow for 76 days to eliminate CI/etc. Just removing the sick fish is not enough.
 
AS
Could be anything relating to prevention of parasites and disease so it could also be turned into an Oxydator thread [emoji848]
I tried a bath sponge in my tank once, it made no noticeable difference apart from the fact my fish looked super clean. [emoji41]
 
MnFish1 said:
You have to remove all the fish - from the tank - and leave the tank fallow for 76 days to eliminate CI/etc. Just removing the sick fish is not enough.
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By the way - I meant - if you think its CI - just removing the sick fish might not be enough (i.e. doing the TTM method won't help)/.
 

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