ID Alage

ajremington68

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Got a problem with some algae, trying to figure out what type it is to find the best thing to get it gone. Looks to be reddish algae and I tried scrubbing off the rock during the water change last night and it did not wanna budge... pictures dull it down with the blues but its like a red/orange sand color. Any ideas?
IMG_2340.jpg
IMG_2343.jpg
 
Got a problem with some algae, trying to figure out what type it is to find the best thing to get it gone. Looks to be reddish algae and I tried scrubbing off the rock during the water change last night and it did not wanna budge... pictures dull it down with the blues but its like a red/orange sand color. Any ideas?
IMG_2340.jpg
IMG_2343.jpg
Suspect is cyano but really need these pics under white light intensity for clear identification
 
IMG_2345.jpg
IMG_2346.jpg
IMG_2347.jpg

What a difference white light makes, umm any help with ID and assistance on what to do to get rid of it? Also not sure why on the upper 1/3 of the back wall I have bubbles on the algae too.
 
IMG_2345.jpg
IMG_2346.jpg
IMG_2347.jpg

What a difference white light makes, umm any help with ID and assistance on what to do to get rid of it? Also not sure why on the upper 1/3 of the back wall I have bubbles on the algae too.
Yes- appears to be cyano.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
Yes- appears to be cyano.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
Now with turning off the whites, do I keep the blues on for the coral? Also, i have about 4 astral snails and 2 turbos, and do i add how much water i have in the sump too for the dosing of the stuff?
 
Now with turning off the whites, do I keep the blues on for the coral? Also, i have about 4 astral snails and 2 turbos, and do i add how much water i have in the sump too for the dosing of the stuff?
Also do i throw the chem pure puch in my sump or where, and do i add the bacteria and the hydrogen peroxide to the sump or tank?
 
Now with turning off the whites, do I keep the blues on for the coral? Also, i have about 4 astral snails and 2 turbos, and do i add how much water i have in the sump too for the dosing of the stuff?
If no SPS, you can leave lights off. You can siphon surface before starting this. No need to add water
 
Also do i throw the chem pure puch in my sump or where, and do i add the bacteria and the hydrogen peroxide to the sump or tank?
Sump- yes
Bacteria and peroxide to tank
 
so like turn over the sand and add the water back? just turn over the sand? also no sps just lps and softys.
I only ask to add back water so I can keep the sump running. I have a royal gramma, two clowns, a yellow goby, a blue damsel, pistol peppermint and cleaner shrimp, and some snails. I feed twice a day with some mysis shrimp and pellets, should I cut the feedings in half or just change to feeding once a day? Also, will the peroxide hurt any of my corals? I got a BTA, Hammer, Favia, and xenia, but the most important is BTA and hammer.
 
One more thing, would you recommend feeding reef roids to the corals once or twice a week?
No reef roids which will raise phosphate even more. Don’t be concerned with coral feeding- you will see progressive improvement daily
Bacteria- micro bacter 7 or XLM
 
No reef roids which will raise phosphate even more. Don’t be concerned with coral feeding- you will see progressive improvement daily
Bacteria- micro bacter 7 or XLM
Alright thank you so much for all the information, I will post updates and tag you and also tag you if I need more help.
 

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