ID and suggestion please

[zack801]

This is a tank I’ve set up for some coral growout so it’s pretty basic.
Tank has been set up for a few months and just recently I started noticing this algae on the glass and some slimy green stuff on my frag plugs. There is also this nasty black stuff that I thought might be cyano that was under my egg crate racks.
I’ve moved the racks and siphoned out all of that nasty black stuff; as well as put an mp10 at the bottom of the tank as I think low flow has allowed it to accumulate. I’ve reduced my photo period as well to see if that helps.
The whole system is about 130g I don’t have live or sand rock just a brightwell aquatic brick and a chunk of dry rock. Not sure if I’ve missed any other important info but I can get additional pics if needed.
Livestock:
Sailfin tang
Purple tAng
Six line wrasse

Cuc:
Turbos -12
astrea - 10
Parameters:
Phos: 0
No3: 2ppm
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Sounds like you need more bio filter. Rock or brick.
With low to no bio filter other organisms have readily available food sources and no competition.

 

[zack801]

I moved over my other brightwells brick so I have 2 now as well as a few lbs of live rock from a tank I’ve had running for a year and a half. Has some good sponge growth but I’ll keep adding some more rock over the next while. According to brighttwells these bricks should filter 1000g depending on bioload. I don’t think I have a big bio load do you think the two bricks are enough? @saltyfilmfolks

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Keep in mind , bio load = how much food you put in.
Clearly there is a lot of something in there.

 

[zack801]

I have been feeding more flake to up the phosphates but it’s still nearly undetectable on Hanna. Would this bacteria/algae be feeding on it and keeping the phosphates down?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

It’s possible yes. But , two thing here, I beive Po4 needs “processing” by fish and flake and most foods don’t really contain more or less Po4. You'd be better served by direct dosing of Po4.
Food rots makes ammoina =nitrates. I’d wager your no4 is fine to high
Second , nutrient limitation is a thing (not the mythical balance thing but ) if there is a lack of one or the other (usually Po4 it seems)many beneficial organisms die (including nitrifying bacteria ) allowing other no3 preferring organisms to thrive , like cyano and several types of dinoflagellates.
Thus the nutrient dosing methods of the giant stop battling dino thread my friends here started.

 

[zack801]

Thanks again for your reply! I've ordered some TriSodium Phosphate to bring my levels up to something i can detect on my hanna Checker. The tank is still cloud however. One more I forgot to mention and wonder if it could have been part of the bloom is I just added a reefbrite strip about a week ago. Could the LED supplementation/change in light have caused this? My Nitrates measured yesterday at < 2ppm and still no phoshphates, ammonia or nitrites. Everything seems to be doing well despite the cloudiness of the water.

 

[zack801]

Ended up trying a UV sterilizer. Relatively cheap one called the Green Killing machine. Have had it running since Thursday and the water is looking much better. My acros look good despite the ULR checker claiming 0 phosphates. I ordered trisodium phosphate but may hold off on dosing that since I’m fairly certain there is at least some amount of everything is looking healthy. @saltyfilmfolks thanks again for your responses

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Glad it’s workong out for you !
Good luck!