ID request, just showed up and going Hard

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LRT said:
What are your nutrient levels in frag tank? It may help nail down whether its algae at all. Ive dealt with all kinds of stuff. Thought I had algae but turned out to be dinos. The slime part may be a clue.
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This was my first thought too
 
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It looks exactly like what I have been dealing with in my 32g since about a week and a half after I finished the "Rip-Clean". Popped up one day and ran with a vengeance!!! You could almost see the strands getting longer hour by hour.

Took drastic steps this morning. Basically rip-cleaned the tank again. Rehomed a couple of the fish into larger tanks (which I wanted to do anyway). Drained it completely, finished cleaning the sand which had been sitting in a bucket since the original rip-clean, and refilled with 100% new clean SW.

Incidentally, the pencil urchin I have had in that tank for some time is absolutely COVERED in that stuff. I almost don't want to put him back in there and reintroduce the problem. Unfortunately, I do not have anywhere else to put him.

Has anyone ever had to, or tried to, clean an urchin before?
 
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Not sure if this works but try blowing it off with little power head.
 
Lost in the Sauce said:
Wondering how best to do that..
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Black plastic bag over one of the ends of the tank, enough to shade the area. If you see sign of die off after a few days you could go for full black out
 
NO3 and PO4 elevated. ChemiPure blue or elite will bring it down and control it. Looks more bacterial like cyano than flagellates. Dino will be more slimy and brown representing snot with imbedded bubbles.
These blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 
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vetteguy53081 said:
NO3 and PO4 elevated. ChemiPure blue or elite will bring it down and control it. Looks more bacterial like cyano than flagellates. Dino will be more slimy and brown representing snot with imbedded bubbles.
Click to expand...

Brown snot with little bubbles is Exactly what it looks like.
vetteguy53081 said:
These blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reacti
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom



- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
Click to expand...

Thanks Vette. I'm about to go ape on this thing.
 
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Lost in the Sauce said:
Brown snot with little bubbles is Exactly what it looks like.


Thanks Vette. I'm about to go ape on this thing.
Click to expand...
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
 
vetteguy53081 said:
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15%) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
Click to expand...
Just picked up some MB7 today, planning to attack it hard in the morning while I'm supposed to be working from home. This is a 37g self-contained system so I can start with hydrogen peroxide tonight.
 
Get snails they said:
Screenshot_20211019-192723~2.png

Roger.
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar
Lost in the Sauce said:
My screen lid only has 1/4" clearance all around!
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Oh ye I have no top lol fun fact nerites live in both salt and fresh ! Really good snail selection should have it all cleaned up
 
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