Ideal ppm of nitrates

[Plunder]

I've been testing my water frequently and my phosphate and nitrate levels are undetectable (API master reef). I know API isn't the greatest for accuracy but I test a lot and always get the same results. I've watched a lot of videos on successful reef tanks with 5-10 ppm of nitrates. My question is what is actually the ideal level to have? For a mixed reef system.

Fluval 13.5g 2 clowns, 1 firedart, 6 microhermits, 12 snails, peppermint shrimp, red shrimp I have about corals right now, too.

Sal 1.025
Cal 400
Alk 9.5
Mag 1400
Phos 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Ammo 0
pH 8.2-8.4

 

[Copingwithpods]

Acceptable ranges are far greater than what is considered norminal ranges.

Acceptable

PO4 0.02-0.20
NO3. 1-40+

Most often suggested
PO4. 0.02-0.08
NO3. 5-20

 

[Plunder]

Thanks for the info. I was thinking of getting another fish to help create more of a bio-load so I can get my nitrates up. What do you think?
I was looking at starry goby or yellow watchman.

 

[Nano sapiens]

IME, that is already quite a lot of fish and invert bio mass (unless they are still quite small and young) for a 13.5 g. Some tanks process nutrients very quickly, while others tend to accumulate them (subtle differences in how systems are set up and run can make a substantial difference).

You can think of having excess NO3 and PO4 in the water column as a 'nutrient insurance policy' for the corals as this is one of three main sources of nutrition that they can utilize. IMO, for most a consistent PO4 of 0.02 - 0.03 ppm and NO3 of 1-3 ppm is fine for running a 'clean' reef system (minimal nuisance algae). Some like to run a bit higher, which is fine as long as algae blooms aren't triggered. Some run lower levels (often 'undetectable' with quality test kits), which is how my system has run most of it's life.

Since this is close to your system's size and fish compliment, here is my 12g AIO system 6 years ago with just two adult Ocellaris Clownfish (that were fed once or twice a day) and a few hermits:

Even when the Clowns reached 3 and 4 inches, respectively, I still had 'undetectable' PO4 and ~ 0.5 ppm NO3. As you can see, the coral had rich coloration and health because nutrients were consistently available and utilized (yay for fish poop!).

IME, the key is to regularly observe how the animals look more so than dogmatically trying to chase specific parameter numbers. If the corals have rich coloration, are plump and are growing, then you're 'in the zone' for your particular system.

 

[Plunder]

IME, that is already quite a lot of fish and invert bio mass (unless they are still quite small and young) for a 13.5 g. Some tanks process nutrients very quickly, while others tend to accumulate them (subtle differences in how systems are set up and run can make a substantial difference).

You can think of having excess NO3 and PO4 in the water column as a 'nutrient insurance policy' for the corals as this is one of three main sources of nutrition that they can utilize. IMO, for most a consistent PO4 of 0.02 - 0.03 ppm and NO3 of 1-3 ppm is fine for running a 'clean' reef system (minimal nuisance algae). Some like to run a bit higher, which is fine as long as algae blooms aren't triggered. Some run lower levels (often 'undetectable' with quality test kits), which is how my system has run most of it's life.

Since this is close to your system's size and fish compliment, here is my 12g AIO system 6 years ago with just two adult Ocellaris Clownfish (that were fed once or twice a day) and a few hermits:

Even when the Clowns reached 3 and 4 inches, respectively, I still had 'undetectable' PO4 and ~ 0.5 ppm NO3. As you can see, the coral had rich coloration and health because nutrients were consistently available and utilized (yay for fish poop!).

IME, the key is to regularly observe how the animals look more so than dogmatically trying to chase specific parameter numbers. If the corals have rich coloration, are plump and are growing, then you're 'in the zone' for your particular system.

Thanks for that great response. The tank looks really nice BTW. I never even took into account that they will get bigger and create bigger poops.

 

[Nano sapiens]

Thanks for that great response. The tank looks really nice BTW. I never even took into account that they will get bigger and create bigger poops.

Thanks. The photo you see is when the clownfish were still small (~ 2 - 1/2"). Even the smallest of the clownfish species (Ocellaris, Percula) can grow to their full size of 4" (or even more) over a few years, even in a 10g. I consider them to be similar to goldfish in that they are heavy bodied fish that will eat like little piggies producing a lot of waste. After a few years, I decided to find a new and bigger home for mine as my 12g cube had become too small for them to comfortably live in as evidenced by more frequent injuries from scraping on my projecting hard coral (in retrospect, a soft coral tank would have been a better option for their long-term care).

 

[ShepherdReefer]

We have a clownfish for about 16 years now and she is approximately 5+", they can get large.