IDEAS, SETUP GREAT HOSPITAL TANK !

427HISS

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I realize there's been many writings on setting up a hospital tanks, but I would like your thoughts, ideas, photo's and reccomndations on setting up a long term tank, not just a quick setup and tear down tank.

I will no longer trust any of the shipped or local stores practicies as far as quarantining, as almost every fish we buy get's sick.

We've lost four new fish the last six months (and two clams) due to sickness, but saved two. We treat all like family, so these loss's are heavy.

So, lets discuss a great hospital tank for all,.......new arrivials.

Some people call them quarrantine tanks, but I don't want any rock or sand, I call them transition tanks, before adding them to the main display. Others set up a 10-20 gallon tank for already sick fish, add copper, and treat for a few days, them move back to their display.

Here's my thoughts.

Tank #1- Hospital tank-

Small 10 to 20g tank as a hospital tank for all,......new fish. Small enough tank, to keep down the cost of medications, water changes and equipment.

Paint/vinyl black, the back, bottom and sides of the tank for the ease of mind of the fish.

Low lighting if the tank is not close to a light source.
Use pvc pipe and/or fresh water plastic plants for hiding.
No skimmer.
Heater.

(I have a filter few sponges in other tanks that I can use to start a biological filter)

Question's.

For the hospital tank, should I attach just a foam sponge to a power head as the bio-filter and water movement, use the tried & true bio-wheel, or something you suggest, for a better/larger biofiltration ?

If not the biowheel, what other mechanical filtration brands do you like ?

Do I need a full time fish,.... in this tank to keep an active bioload going continuiously ?

Tank #2- Quarantine tank. 20 to 40g.

Again, no live rock or sand, just more fake plants etc, as hiding places. I don't want any parisites to anchor to any type of substraight.

Use a skimmer.
Use chemical filtration, carbon ect.
More light.
Larger mechanical filtration, maybe a wet/dry ?
Possible a UV sterilizer ?

Transition tank-

A small tank, maybe one of my two 40g's, for a few medium size fish or several smaller fish.
Live rock and sand or gravel.
Typical saltwater aquarium.

If these fish are cleared as healthy after 4 to 6 months, they graduate to the main display !


I currently have a 14g BioCube and a drilled 40g tank available, but I'm willing to buy different tanks if needed.

So, please help me in setting up a great system for new family members !
Kevin
 
I have QT'n alot of fish in my time. When I order with friends, I will often times QT their fish alongside of mine.

While copper works, I do not personally like it and avoid it as much as possible. I don't like the copper test kits, they are hard to read. Some fish also do not do well at all in copper.

Since I was QT'n so much I invested in 4 of everything... While you really only need 2 of everything.

Rubbermaid tub
Heater
Air Stone
Filter floss
PVC pieces

I keep these item stored and put away. When new fish arrive, I will do the tank transfer method and Prazi treatments on all of the fish. This will essentially protect you from ich, flukes and internal parasites which are the most common. While Prazi treatment can be problematic for some fish, the tank transfer method is a sure fire way to ensure you keep ich out of your system. Tank transfer takes less than 2 weeks while copper treatment requires 30 days.

After my new fish go through TT and Prazi, they go into a observation tank for awhile.. Since the fish will be in this system for awhile, you could go with a skimmer / HOB filter of some sort to ensure water quality. Should you need to treat the tank with a medication, you can turn off the skimmer and the equipment is easy to clean / dry out if it becomes contaminated.
 
So, do you mean one tank for the Prazi treatment for a apx period of 2 weeks, then transfer them to the second tank ,which is your observation tank ?
If all goes well, how long do you normally have them in the observation tank before placing them in your display ?

What is TT, so I can order them ?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12098
 
TT - Tank Transfer or TTM Tank Transfer Method

Search online for "Tank transfer method"- This is a method focused on handling ich.

It is a little more hands on than copper or hyposalinity but it definately works. It is faster and easier on the fish long-term although people will argue that catching new fish every 3 days for a couple of weeks puts too much stress on them. I hand catch everything so fast I have never seen a problem. While you are doing the tank transfer method you can also do Prazi Pro treatment so by the end of your 2 weeks you will have treated your fish for both ich, flukes, internal worms etc...

At this point for me, I am usually pretty confident things are ok and I will put them into an observation tank that has better filtration to ensure good water quality, power heads etc... I will then start trying to feed various foods, get them fat and aggressviely eating. I'll watch for any other problems the fish could have. Sometimes 2 Prazi treatments aren't enough and you go 3 or 4... I will in the observation tank do another 1-2 rounds of Prazi as well.. Prazi is ok to do like this. Not safe for inverts etc but fine for fish. I will warn you that Prazi can have ill effects on some wrasses and you just need to watch that for yourself and make the judgement call on how to treat.

That is also something worth elaborating on... There is a difference between a fish eating and a fish aggressively eating.

I'll watch the fish usually around 45 days and based on eating habits and behavior determine if they should go into the isplay or not. So with the TTM and observation, my fish are QT'd for around 60 days in total.

So in the end, you have 1 QT tank set-up permenantly like you want and then you have your tank transfer method equipment which should be rubbermaid totes (easy to clean, store) with all the equipment needed for that stored in there. If you do this and use the air stones (which you should because of the Prazi), I always use fresh air stones and hoses on each tank during TTM. The bins, heaters, pvc gets washed with hot water / vinegar and dries for atleast 24 hours before using it again.

When it comes to QT methods there are alot of different options. Based on what I am comfortable with, this is how I choose to do things.
 
TT - Tank Transfer or TTM Tank Transfer Method

Search online for "Tank transfer method"- This is a method focused on handling ich.

It is a little more hands on than copper or hyposalinity but it definately works. It is faster and easier on the fish long-term although people will argue that catching new fish every 3 days for a couple of weeks puts too much stress on them. I hand catch everything so fast I have never seen a problem. While you are doing the tank transfer method you can also do Prazi Pro treatment so by the end of your 2 weeks you will have treated your fish for both ich, flukes, internal worms etc...

At this point for me, I am usually pretty confident things are ok and I will put them into an observation tank that has better filtration to ensure good water quality, power heads etc... I will then start trying to feed various foods, get them fat and aggressviely eating. I'll watch for any other problems the fish could have. Sometimes 2 Prazi treatments aren't enough and you go 3 or 4... I will in the observation tank do another 1-2 rounds of Prazi as well.. Prazi is ok to do like this. Not safe for inverts etc but fine for fish. I will warn you that Prazi can have ill effects on some wrasses and you just need to watch that for yourself and make the judgement call on how to treat.

That is also something worth elaborating on... There is a difference between a fish eating and a fish aggressively eating.

I'll watch the fish usually around 45 days and based on eating habits and behavior determine if they should go into the isplay or not. So with the TTM and observation, my fish are QT'd for around 60 days in total.

So in the end, you have 1 QT tank set-up permenantly like you want and then you have your tank transfer method equipment which should be rubbermaid totes (easy to clean, store) with all the equipment needed for that stored in there. If you do this and use the air stones (which you should because of the Prazi), I always use fresh air stones and hoses on each tank during TTM. The bins, heaters, pvc gets washed with hot water / vinegar and dries for atleast 24 hours before using it again.

When it comes to QT methods there are alot of different options. Based on what I am comfortable with, this is how I choose to do things.

I know i am super late reading this. But Had to follow along. I lost 13 fish in a matter of 2 months because of ich. Lost approximately $1300 of Tangs, Anthias, Designer Clowns and the only thing left are 3 Wrasse in my DT. (1 of them a cleaner wrasse). I really like this method you are using. Do you mind posting pics of your Rubber mate Tote? I have a 10g tank for QT i am still trying to set up but i also need to set up the TTM.
 
Been away for a while, so just asking for other's to chime in on their setup's.
Looking into Kurkis493's Tank Transfer Method.

I do not want a HOB filter that we must use the company's filter pad as it gets expensive etc....

HOB or a sump system ?

What size tanks and filters are other guys using ?
Using UV's ?

Please look at my questions and answer as many as you can. I'm wanting another Clown Trigger !!!....(and other fish), so I need to
set up a system.
 
I ttm and dose Prazipro, then observe another 2-3 weeks.

My permanent 1 has been setup a year, has a hob (just provides flow and oxygen, no filters), and I prefer a piece of live rock (I moved over what you see from dt to rid aiptasia, typically only have 1 large piece).

1459715383829-1030148810.jpg
 
@Humblefish and @melypr1985 for this. They seem to have it handled well. I went with humble fish plan and did a two tier system. One for fish and one for coral. Currently awaiting my tank to be ready after reset it up, so the fish QT has become the holding tank.

While TTM seems to be all the rage now, I prefer to keep it simple with one tank for fish QT. So far so good.

I wouldn't keep a fish in there full time, just reseed after each use with a filter pad from the DT. Remember to clean and dry the tank after each use.
 
I may also do what you do, and have one tank for corals, as a dang aiptasia must have come on a new coral and now have spread in my wife's 29g reef. Now I'm trying the nudi method of killing them.

What's your tank and products used ?

I'll start reading the posted TTM tomorrow.
 
QT tanks?
For corals...20l with a job filter and a rw-15 for flow. Looking into a nano skimmer for it, not sure if I really need it though. Lighting I have a hydra 26 hd above the tank. I can quickly do up to a 75% water change if needed.
For fish I have a 40b. It has a hob remmora skimmer and as it currently does have corals a mp40 and mp10 running in anti-sync. I am also using phosguard in a reactor to help keep phosphate in check. Running a cheap ebay led light.

All tests are Red Sea. All dosing is BRS. I do dose vit C from brightwell aquatics weekly. Any new addition, in either tank, I dose with seachem stability per bottle.


image.jpg


You can see my two QT tanks in the back there. Sorry, thought I had a better pic.
 
Hi! I like TTM as well. I'll be running two Blue star leopards through TTM with prazi starting tomorrow! What I have is two 10 gallon tanks for TTM and if the fish are small enough they just stay in one of the 10 gallons for the observation period. I have a 40 breeder as well, for larger fish or a large amount of fish. Now I dont keep these running all the time. I break them down, clean and store in the garage. I dont have room for a permanant one. If you were to set up just one QT to keep up all the time, then I would pick a 20 long, assuming you wont be getting any very large fish. This would be fine for most fish for the short period of time they have to be in there. You can use any power filter that is large enough to handle a 20 gallon tank. Adding a small powerhead or air stone is a plus as well. The heater and hiding places are all you need after that. Just keep sponges in the main tank so you can always reseed the bacteria in the QT when you need to use it. You'll have to top it up every day even if your not using it so you dont get the SG all outa whack. It's also a good idea to make sure you can break this tank down and disinfect it if you need to.
 
Pics of my 29 gal fish QT

100_2019_zps64a98b27.jpg

101_9814_zps4538788b.jpg


My 29 gal "fishless" frag tank. I place all corals/inverts in here for 76 days before they go into my DT. Just cheap T5 lighting, Koralia powerhead, HOB powerfilter, heater, rock/sand and a frag rack gets the job done. ;)



Or how to perform TTM if you like: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-transfer-method.192655/
 

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