If I could start over...

[FlyPenFly]

Just some thoughts on what I would do:

• Don't waste money on frags, save for colonies
• I've spent a large amount of money going through different lights. Now that I know I just prefer the 20k radium MH look, I would have just gone with MH + T5 from the start and keep my AC on during the day in the summer.
• An ATO is a must have and the first thing I should have purchased.
• I should have gotten a bigger RODI from Spectra
• I should have used ESV salt solution from the start
• MP10 and MP40 from the start
• Cobalt Neotherm from the start
• Aquaclears with a inTank basket are incredibly effective BUT it seems the basket can cause a bit more noise at least on the AC70.
• Don't overdose GFO, it caused an alkalinity crash which killed a few SPS for me and made a huge precipitation mess. Now I just use phosguard and I can use any amount I like. The aluminum problem is a myth. I have tons of open brain coral and other LPS and they're all very happy despite the large amount I use.
• Algae scrubbers > Chaeto. Even though the chaeto grows and what not, it's hard to tell if it's even making a dent over a good skimmer or not.
• BRS dosers are crap - eventually. Use something really cheap like Aqualifters on timers or save up for a proper Vertex dosing setup
• Don't buy used skimmers. They're probably the most temperamental items in reefing and whether it's skim generation, size, or just noise level, it's best to buy new in case it doesn't work out for you.
• Really plan ahead with the overflows. Big overflows in my Deep Blue Edge tank are kind of crap. The Elos overflows are very nice and so are the new Reef Octo Luxury tanks. An overflow is an area that can just gather a lot of dirt so having it be small as possible isn't just for aesthetics but for cleaning. Lifereef overflows are fantastic, easily cleaned and I just don't see it could cause a flood unless your pump sucks. You can make it almost fool proof by elevating your return pump.
• If your light is strong enough, egg crate for a top is probably the best compromise. You're going to lose about 10-20% in ultimate power but screen tops look ghetto horrible. Glass tops look the nicest but once salt creep and just crap gets on it, good bye PARs. Custom cut acrylic is best especially if you do a custom cut for your light but there's bowing on most sized tanks which is another pain to deal with.
• Of the carbon I tried, Seachem matrix is the only one that let me test near 0 on my Hanna checker for phosphates.
• Keep small bags of bio media in your sump, just in case. They're very handy for emergencies or starting a new tank.
• Scrubbing live rock was the worst most time consuming and labor intensive thing I did in this hobby. I wish I used aqua-tecture rocks from the start like I do now.
• Kalkwasser is fantastic but you really need a reactor. I prefer just two part dosing and keep Mg in my ato reserve.
• Get as many Hanna checkers as you can. Telling colors apart in test kits is ****** BS.
• Invest in a great level. Make sure your tank is perfectly level before getting it wet. Check half way filled to make sure the weight didn't unlevel something.

The biggest thing I wish I did was just went with two Elos Midis and only did very high end SPS with rare smaller fish. I've been through at least a dozen tanks at this point. Maintaining a 75 gallon and 60 gallon tank in a manhattan apartment was perhaps a bit too ambitious.

 

[bmac16]

Oh man I have sooo many to add! 0_o

My main one is I wish I wouldn't have tried all the new "hip" products and dosing regimens when they weren't needed.

 

[mike007]

Why don't you do this? Amazing how much we learn through experience.

 

[Joker79]

Very good info! Thanks for this!

 

[FlyPenFly]

Why don't you do this? Amazing how much we learn through experience.

Experience and $$$$$$$

 

[cdness]

If it was me, There are many things up there that I wouldn't do if I could start over... Here's what I would change if I had the chance:

* Get dosers from the beginning. Manual dosing is a pain in the rear and it tends to be forgotten if your life is complicated. I have been running the same BRS dosers for awhile now and to be honest I like them.
* I would research decisions better before making them with ALL equipment. I had a skimmer that was WAY too small and crap return pumps on my 75G tank. They survived for 6 months then had issues... Researching to make a better decision will save money in the long run.
* Stock with less rock with a more open aquascape. Lower the number of fish as well to make sure bio-load is manageable...

Now just some opinion comments related to your post above:


Don't waste money on frags, save for colonies - Personally I like buying frags and letting them grow in the tank. It gives the aquarist a sense of achievement when their tank grows in nicely while allowing cheaper purchase prices in case there are issues along the way. This however assumes patience and avoidance of the societal norm of instant gratification...
An ATO is a must have and the first thing I should have purchased. - Agreed 100%
MP10 and MP40 from the start & Cobalt Neotherm from the start - These products were not around when I started... I agree the Neotherm heaters look great, but I probably would still stay away from the MPxx as they are noisy and are a high initial cost to get started.
Aquaclears with a inTank basket are incredibly effective BUT it seems the basket can cause a bit more noise at least on the AC70. - Just drill the tank and this is no more worry. I will never own a non-drilled tank. Either purchase reef ready or be prepared to custom drill.
BRS dosers are crap - eventually. Use something really cheap like Aqualifters on timers or save up for a proper Vertex dosing setup - Aqualifters are not predictable. They are close but when you want to have precise control, a doser peristaltic pump is the only way to go. Many manufacturers use the same intermal motors and different heads or head covers. They are all based on the same design and personally never had an issue with my BRS (Drew's) dosers.
Don't buy used skimmers. They're probably the most temperamental items in reefing and whether it's skim generation, size, or just noise level, it's best to buy new in case it doesn't work out for you. - Used equipment is one of the best ways to get started in this hobby. While you may end up replacing it in the future, it is a lower startup investment and you can get quality equipment for the price of cheap junk by looking at the used market. I would hate to see someone pass over a used SWC or BK skimmer for a new seaclone based solely on the one being new at the same price point.
Really plan ahead with the overflows. Big overflows in my Deep Blue Edge tank are kind of crap. The Elos overflows are very nice and so are the new Reef Octo Luxury tanks. An overflow is an area that can just gather a lot of dirt so having it be small as possible isn't just for aesthetics but for cleaning. Lifereef overflows are fantastic, easily cleaned and I just don't see it could cause a flood unless your pump sucks. You can make it almost fool proof by elevating your return pump. - Drilling the tank is the only fool-proof overflow design. Even then snails can cause issues, but there is no issue of lost siphon and tank overflow as it is all based on gravity. As long as your tank is bound by the laws of gravity, a gravity based overflow drain will never fail.
If your light is strong enough, egg crate for a top is probably the best compromise. You're going to lose about 10-20% in ultimate power but screen tops look ghetto horrible. Glass tops look the nicest but once salt creep and just crap gets on it, good bye PARs. Custom cut acrylic is best especially if you do a custom cut for your light but there's bowing on most sized tanks which is another pain to deal with. - Going topless is the best way to keep air exchange high and have zero effect on your light penetration. While not perfect for everyone, a canopy is a great way to prevent jumpers while keeping air exchange high. If the screen top is done right, it can be hidden so well that the average person will not even know it is there.
Keep small bags of bio media in your sump, just in case. They're very handy for emergencies or starting a new tank. - This is a really good idea that all of us should do. Personally I keep a nice amount of live rock in my sump for emergency QT purposes, not bio-media. However the bio-media will have the same effect as the live rock. Some also float a sponge in their sump until it is needed.
Scrubbing live rock was the worst most time consuming and labor intensive thing I did in this hobby. I wish I used aqua-tecture rocks from the start like I do now. - Been there, done that... Scrubbing rock is not fun and honestly can be dangerous if it has zoas or palys on the rock. However true live rock is great for a reef system and has unpredictable patterns, caves, structure, and hitchikers. The ceramic sculptures can really add an interesting focal point to the tank though as the majority of what they do is hard to accomplish with live rock.
Invest in a great level. Make sure your tank is perfectly level before getting it wet. Check half way filled to make sure the weight didn't unlevel something. - Yeah this is tricky. My first tank was level until I filled it. After filling it was off a little but I left it the way it was. Later I found out the floor joists were parallel to the tank causing the front to sink a little. Keep checking it as you fill and be sure to shim under the stand if needed, not between the tank and stand.

 

[Squishie89]

I just wish I had gone bigger =P

 

[Mcreefer]

1. Go bigger from the start.
2. Go straight to LEDs.
3. Get a glass top for tank.
4. Mix own salt from the start.
5. Don't give so much away.

 

[c_healy]

Would have picked a few different fish and would have gone bigger.

Sent Via the R2R Forum APP

 

[FlyPenFly]

snipped

MP10s and MP40s are definitely noisier than my Koralia Evos but not very noisy at all once I've perfected the positioning. It's very tricky but doable.

The BRS dosers are notorious for failing right around the year mark for their slower dosers.

I agree with you on used equipment in general but I would avoid used skimmers at least from my experience.

A drilled tank can also fail in fact there are several failure points. People often don't drill these properly, bulkheads are prone to leaking, and the snail risk is essentially almost equal to a high quality hang over back overflow. The siphon tube overflow is the way to go for hang on back units. I think people using the CPR overflows are insane and just asking for it. The only way a Lifereef overflow can fail is if siphon is lost due to air buildup from a weak return pump. This takes a while and anyone would notice the air gap build up.

When I go on vacation, I like to add a Aquaclear to the filtration just in case the main pump fails or stops for some reason while I'm away for a long time, at least the Aquaclear will provide some filtration and ripple the water for gas exchange. If you can find a way to fit them without too much splashing in the sump, they make Excellent pseudo media reactors for non-tumbling media. So much easier to do.

I haven't seen a screen top that looks great, link?

 

[FlyPenFly]

Oh I also forgot the mention, another GREAT thing about Mp10/40 is that they don't add any more heat to the tank which multiple large powerheads will. They also take up SIGNIFICANTLY less room inside the tank for their flow potential. Their programmability and built in syncing is also invaluable. Honestly, it should cost more than it does.

 

[Zack]

Cool thread. I bet the "wish i had gone bigger" will be a common one.

 

[Zero Nitrates]

Great advice!
For me I would:
Go big to start with. I'm on my third up grade.
Start with Led's and an oversized skimmer.
I really like my mp10s, much better than the powerheads that I started with.
Start with an oversized sump, the bigger the better.
Most importantly, make friends with reefers in your area. They have a wealth of knowledge you are not going to learn about anywhere else.
I have a great friend that has teamed up with me and taught me everything about reefing. We buy the same equipment and supplies so if one of us runs out or has a mechanical failure we can help each other. It is also useful when one of us goes out of town, we can take care of each others tanks and be familiar with the other person's setup.

 

[Paul C.]

All great, and all VERY true.

For me it would be bigger.. Was scared to jump right into a six footer as a first tank. Now im petrified of moving my collection to a new tank.

 

[Isoprene]

I would have gone rimless cube. Thats not the biggest change though.

I am one year in and I would have:

1. GOT A ATO IMMEDIATLEY!
2. Checked my PAR before adding ANY coral and getting a aqua scape prior to adding ANY coral.
3. Only cheap fish that are extremely beneficial, and one tang to keep algae under control.
4. NO SAND!
5. Reflective film on bottom underneath of tank.
6. ALL SPS!!!!!!!!!!!! with crazy amounts of light.