I'm using Vibrant, where do I go from here......?

[Jubei2006]

Thanks! Refugiums was the first thing that came up when I first started researching this issue. I feel limited by my biocube in that regard. I plan on trying chaeto in the middle chamber, if I cant get this under control. But I have heard mix reviews about whether or not I can grow enough chaeto in the limited space to make a difference with my nutrients export.

You can harvest GHA just like any other algae. It grows well, pulls nutrients. It's only problem is it's ugly. But then again.....it's in a sump which is usually hidden. I have both growing in my sump area.

 

[Jubei2006]

Thanks! Refugiums was the first thing that came up when I first started researching this issue. I feel limited by my biocube in that regard. I plan on trying chaeto in the middle chamber, if I cant get this under control. But I have heard mix reviews about whether or not I can grow enough chaeto in the limited space to make a difference with my nutrients export.

You can see the mat of sea lettuce on top, its on some the rock under as well. The the rest is GHA. The display stays clean. I just grab handfuls of GHA weekly.

 

[rmorris_14]

3% from any retailer (DG, Walmart, Publix, Etc.) is fine and all you need.

Phosphate X is LC, I believe. If it is, you would need lower micron filter socks and a skimmer to ensure the precipitate is collected, so it can be exported out of the tank. Also, being as you are using the Fluval test kit, your PO4 could be anywhere from 0 to .25 before it indicates any present. I would steer away from dosing LC until you can get an actual reading.

In regards to the fluval test kit, I wonder if you could reduce the amount of sample water to half, do the test and then divide by 2 to get a reading. Or at least see if any amount is actually present. I know you can do this with other test kits, but not sure on that.

In regards to the reduce sample water amount, I would have to ask @Randy Holmes-Farley if this is even possible.

Here are the directions, so maybe this will help to answer that.

https://fluvalaquatics.com/manuals/A7872_Manual_Map.pdf

Will the perioxide and/or sitting out of water kill the little bit of coraline algae on my rocks that has started to spread?

 

[Wtyson254]

I think fluconazole can be helpful.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Will the perioxide and/or sitting out of water kill the little bit of coraline algae on my rocks that has started to spread?

Some may be bleached a little, but should be fine. Just keep h2o2 off it as best you can. My tanks used to get large monthly waterchanges before doing AWC and there were times it was 10-15 minutes out of the water and no issues.

 

[twelvefive]

I just tackled an insane GHA outbreak in my bc32. I went 7 weeks with vibrant with no changes. I then took my rocks out individually, scrubbed in hydrogen peroxide (3%) with a toothbrush, dipped in RODI, removed and replaced sand, thoroughly vacuumed every crevice, and a 50%ish wc, then 3 days of no lights. I added a bag with phosguard and matrix carbon in 2nd chamber. I haven't seen any hair since.

 

[rmorris_14]

I just tackled an insane GHA outbreak in my bc32. I went 7 weeks with vibrant with no changes. I then took my rocks out individually, scrubbed in hydrogen peroxide (3%) with a toothbrush, dipped in RODI, removed and replaced sand, thoroughly vacuumed every crevice, and a 50%ish wc, then 3 days of no lights. I added a bag with phosguard and matrix carbon in 2nd chamber. I haven't seen any hair since.

I how long has it been since you did all that that you haven’t seen it?

 

[twelvefive]

1 month

 

[rmorris_14]

3% from any retailer (DG, Walmart, Publix, Etc.) is fine and all you need.

Phosphate X is LC, I believe. If it is, you would need lower micron filter socks and a skimmer to ensure the precipitate is collected, so it can be exported out of the tank. Also, being as you are using the Fluval test kit, your PO4 could be anywhere from 0 to .25 before it indicates any present. I would steer away from dosing LC until you can get an actual reading.

In regards to the fluval test kit, I wonder if you could reduce the amount of sample water to half, do the test and then divide by 2 to get a reading. Or at least see if any amount is actually present. I know you can do this with other test kits, but not sure on that.

In regards to the reduce sample water amount, I would have to ask @Randy Holmes-Farley if this is even possible.

Here are the directions, so maybe this will help to answer that.

https://fluvalaquatics.com/manuals/A7872_Manual_Map.pdf

What’s the ideal phosphate goal here? I ran the fluval test again tonight on the tank water. it definitely seems to match the first .25. I guess it could be a little higher. But it definitely isn’t .5. At what point is phosphates considered too high?

 

[Eagle_Steve]

What’s the ideal phosphate goal here? I ran the fluval test again tonight on the tank water. it definitely seems to match the first .25. I guess it could be a little higher. But it definitely isn’t .5. At what point is phosphates considered too high?

That is a hard one, as no two tanks are the same.

I prefer po4 around .08-.10, but others have no issues and grow awesome SPS tanks with .25, .5 and some with even 1.0 for PO4.

The trick when doing anything that removes is, is to watch it closely. Once you start to get the stuff in the rocks unbound, it will go down quicker and quicker.

For now, until you get the RODI situation resolved, I suggest you try to aim for stability and do things very slowly. Nothing good happens fast. The fact you have put so much work into manual removal is awesome. Most give up and quit, but you did not and that is very respectable.

You can work to reduce PO4, but I would aim for a better tester before doing so. Even a redsea test kit would suffice. They get a little more into the lower ranges, but Hanna is going to be the best one, from my experience. I use the normal one and not ULR one. The margin of error still falls into my preferred range, so never went to the ULR one.

 

[a.t.t.r]

2

thank you! Im working on it. When I got the tank. the Nitrate were off the charts. The solution turned bright red instantly. I take pride in my 25 to 30 range . But I do know it needs improvement.

20-30 is fine and phosphates you want low but not 0.

Just ride out the ugly phase. It’s part of reef keeping and getting a balanced tank established.

 

[rmorris_14]

That is a hard one, as no two tanks are the same.

I prefer po4 around .08-.10, but others have no issues and grow awesome SPS tanks with .25, .5 and some with even 1.0 for PO4.

The trick when doing anything that removes is, is to watch it closely. Once you start to get the stuff in the rocks unbound, it will go down quicker and quicker.

For now, until you get the RODI situation resolved, I suggest you try to aim for stability and do things very slowly. Nothing good happens fast. The fact you have put so much work into manual removal is awesome. Most give up and quit, but you did not and that is very respectable.

You can work to reduce PO4, but I would aim for a better tester before doing so. Even a redsea test kit would suffice. They get a little more into the lower ranges, but Hanna is going to be the best one, from my experience. I use the normal one and not ULR one. The margin of error still falls into my preferred range, so never went to the ULR one.

Ok thanks! I’m definitely going to get the Hanna test for phosphate if that’s the only Hanna I get.

 

[rmorris_14]

2

20-30 is fine and phosphates you want low but not 0.

Just ride out the ugly phase. It’s part of reef keeping and getting a balanced tank established.

Thanks.. it’s not an ugly phase at this point. I’m trying to recover a tank that had little to no maintenance done for who know how long and was covered with GHA when I got it. Tank is over a year old at this point.

 

[a.t.t.r]

Thanks.. it’s not an ugly phase at this point. I’m trying to recover a tank that had little to no maintenance done for who know how long and was covered with GHA when I got it. Tank is over a year old at this point.

Get some good clean up crew going. Check out reefcleaners.org they have good variety and prices.

 

[rmorris_14]

That is a hard one, as no two tanks are the same.

I prefer po4 around .08-.10, but others have no issues and grow awesome SPS tanks with .25, .5 and some with even 1.0 for PO4.

The trick when doing anything that removes is, is to watch it closely. Once you start to get the stuff in the rocks unbound, it will go down quicker and quicker.

For now, until you get the RODI situation resolved, I suggest you try to aim for stability and do things very slowly. Nothing good happens fast. The fact you have put so much work into manual removal is awesome. Most give up and quit, but you did not and that is very respectable.

You can work to reduce PO4, but I would aim for a better tester before doing so. Even a redsea test kit would suffice. They get a little more into the lower ranges, but Hanna is going to be the best one, from my experience. I use the normal one and not ULR one. The margin of error still falls into my preferred range, so never went to the ULR one.

Hey so one more question.
I just tested the RO water pure and then after I mixed in the salt to see if either had a phosphate reading. Both appear to be 0. However, I get they can really be anywhere from 0 to .25. You had said that my phosphates would try to equalize with all the water changes I’m doing . So in theory, if the water I am adding is reading less phosphates than the tank water, which was clearly .25 or a little higher, would it be safe to assume that the water is not contributing to elevated phosphates?
am I understanding correctly?
I’m not justifying putting off the rodi with my questions. I’m just thinking out loud and wanted to know if my thought process had any validity behind it.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Hey so one more question.
I just tested the RO water pure and then after I mixed in the salt to see if either had a phosphate reading. Both appear to be 0. However, I get they can really be anywhere from 0 to .25. You had said that my phosphates would try to equalize with all the water changes I’m doing . So in theory, if the water I am adding is reading less phosphates than the tank water, which was clearly .25 or a little higher, would it be safe to assume that the water is not contributing to elevated phosphates?
am I understanding correctly?
I’m not justifying putting off the rodi with my questions. I’m just thinking out loud and wanted to know if my thought process had any validity behind it.

That is true and you may have no phospahte in the water, as previously mentioned, just know it is 17 tds of something.

At least with the kit not giving a hint of color, that is good in the sense, it should be less than the tank.

So the thought process is correct.

Another thing to look into is food you are feeding. Some pellet food contain a ton of phosphate. Some frozen foods do as well. I make my own food for my fish, as with my tanks and fish, it is cheaper. But at times where I have to buy frozen, I rinse my food in a fine flour strainer and rodi water. This just removes all the stuff and juices fish cannot eat and can help to lower phosphate going into the tank. It will not remove it all, but lowers the amount not consumed and just left to build up on its own and not in poop lol.

With that said, water changes with your water may still be perfectly OK to lower PO4 and nitrate.

 

[a.t.t.r]

Hey so one more question.
I just tested the RO water pure and then after I mixed in the salt to see if either had a phosphate reading. Both appear to be 0. However, I get they can really be anywhere from 0 to .25. You had said that my phosphates would try to equalize with all the water changes I’m doing . So in theory, if the water I am adding is reading less phosphates than the tank water, which was clearly .25 or a little higher, would it be safe to assume that the water is not contributing to elevated phosphates?
am I understanding correctly?
I’m not justifying putting off the rodi with my questions. I’m just thinking out loud and wanted to know if my thought process had any validity behind it.

I would say that is a semi safe assessment but remember water is not your only source you also add food ontop of it AND top off water (which concentrates over time). I actually add phosphate and silicate back to my water change water to boost them slightly and have no pest algae anymore. I’m on mobile so it’s hard to hop around The post but did you say you have a skimmer?

 

[Eagle_Steve]

I would say that is a semi safe assessment but remember water is not your only source you also add food ontop of it AND top off water (which concentrates over time). I actually add phosphate and silicate back to my water change water to boost them slightly and have no pest algae anymore. I’m on mobile so it’s hard to hop around The post but did you say you have a skimmer?

Yup. She has a v2 Coralife one.

 

[a.t.t.r]

Yup. She has a v2 Coralife one.

In that case is it pulling dark colored or even tinted water? If so that’s going to be a huge help in the fight on the algae. Can also reduce the white light and use mostly blue if possible. Hair algae doesn’t use the blue side of the spectrum as well as coral does.

 

[rmorris_14]

That is true and you may have no phospahte in the water, as previously mentioned, just know it is 17 tds of something.

At least with the kit not giving a hint of color, that is good in the sense, it should be less than the tank.

So the thought process is correct.

Another thing to look into is food you are feeding. Some pellet food contain a ton of phosphate. Some frozen foods do as well. I make my own food for my fish, as with my tanks and fish, it is cheaper. But at times where I have to buy frozen, I rinse my food in a fine flour strainer and rodi water. This just removes all the stuff and juices fish cannot eat and can help to lower phosphate going into the tank. It will not remove it all, but lowers the amount not consumed and just left to build up on its own and not in poop lol.

With that said, water changes with your water may still be perfectly OK to lower PO4 and nitrate.

I feed LRS reef frenzy or rods reef complete. Occasion I throw in a couple seaweed extreme pellets but only one clown fish eats them out of all the fish so it’s mostly just a treat for her. For the LRS and RODS, I heard you should not rinse those because you would be rinsing out the additives that are beneficial for the coral etc... is that true?