That makes sense with the QT. Here’s my problem with the current lumber. On the build. I went and got another piece just in case I decided to swap them out. But it turns out my new piece has a split in it. It’s been hard to find good lumber. So do we think the current is okay, or should I go ahead and swap?
Information on stand building
- Thread starter K-Philly
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Instead of plywood top And the base of inside cabinet I would suggest using a sheet of pvc. Called azec where I live. That way it doesn’t rot from getting wet all the time. I used plywood on the inside of my cabinet and after 2 years the plywood has rotted. And that bottom piece looks structurally fine. That chip should be a problem
Hey, all looks good except for the two cross pieces at the bottom- instead of putting 1/4" at the bottom remove the two cross pieces and install 3/4" on underside of the bottom 2"X 4" This will secure the two cross pieces in place in turn give you more room within cabinet. Also seal underside (the part hitting floor) seal the interior bottom ply within 2"X 4" rim with like a pond coating (protect from water spills) The extra room will be appreciated once you start loading equipment within cabinet. Reefer/ carpenter (Gorilla glue best)I am currently building a stand for my 100G reef-ready tank(72x18x17), for those of you who might be unaware of my thread build. I was hoping that some of you gracious carpenters and woodworkers might be able to chime in on some thoughts or advice.
I designed everything to be put together with Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, along with pocket hold joinery with the use of 2 1/2” coarse thread Kreg screws.
I plan to put 3/4” plywood on top. I will use 1/4” plywood for the flooring and to wrap it in. I appreciate any advice or help!
Ahhhh, I see what you're saying! I was planning to look for some wheels that could be installed in the bottom of the frame. That way they could fold in and out, for easier moving of the stand when there is not a tank on it. I was going to cut the door openings to be flush with the bottom of the top frame and the top of the bottom frame. I was thinking that three doors would be the best bet, maybe in like 2ft sections. Or maybe two slightly larger doors. I was going to put 3/4" plywood as the flooring in the bottom and on the top to help the tanks weight level out. I was actually going to look into that PVC material.
Also, at this point I may consider swapping or selling my 55G sump to build another one out of a 40G breeder. I originally did not anticipate how big this sump actually was. Although I do like having a massive refugium, I can probably design one that is just as efficient in a 40G. I may be able to actually trade this one for a brand new 40G.
Question though, if I installed 3/4" flooring which would be sawed to sit flush in the bottom of the frame, wouldn't this accomplish the same the goal as putting it on the bottom? That may be a silly question, but I actually ran into another problem last night. The stand wouldn't sit completely level on the floor in my apartment. It would rock back and forth when you pushed on it. But when I was selecting my lumber I never did see a bow in it or crowns. But if I am being honest, it was hard to catch on 8ft pieces. I think there may be a possibility of a small crown in either the front 2x4" rail or the back one. It did this is my buddy's shop, but I just thought it might be his flooring. The floor of his shop is up off the ground, and his shop is the only place I had available to work. However, when we got the tank on top of the stand everything seemed to settle out more. My level reads that everything is also in fact level. When you push on the stand now, there's no way to move it without completely pushing the tank off. I'm assuming that the weight will just help it naturally level. I just don't want any screws to tear out, haha.
I also found a gap between the wood in the back right corner. I can insert another pocket hole here, but slightly closer to try and pull the wood flush.
Also had a question about silicon. I wanted y'all to be able to get a look at what kind of bracing I am working with. Everything looks like it has been siliconed and structured just fine. There were just a few gaps I wanted to touch up. I know the silicon needs to be aquarium safe. But do I need to call the manufacturer to match their brand? Or as long as it is aquarium safe will other silicons bond to the silicon already used? The trim looks fine, but I will post pictures if someone would like to see it. The trim bows out towards the middle, but it's not extreme. Maybe at an 1/8" on all four panes on the bottom. Would you suggest that I maybe silicon the top of the trim? I will be using the Comline Wavebox for my flow. I just want to make sure the silicon and stand will hold up to the rocking of the waves. I definitely won't be getting crazy with the waves, but I like having that uniform flow. It might be hard to see but there is 1/2" glass trim that is siliconed in along the interior of the tank.
As far sealing the inside of the stand, what would you recommend using? I am not to familiar with the different applications.
As far as the rest of the stand goes, I hope to finish up next weekend. If I do not build a new sump, I will probably screw my front panel on to remove it. I thought about gluing all of it because I felt like that would be a tighter bond between wood. I will definitely be gluing the top, just to be sure that I can keep the tank off of the screws. I may actually end up screwing in all panels excluding the top and flooring so it can be taken apart in a way that makes it lighter to move. I may go with half a panel on the back just mount things down the road such as maybe reactors or controllers. I was hoping that someone could chime in on how much light or noise gets out from the back of the tank when there is no panel. The tank will be kept in my bedroom because my two buddies who will be living with me don't want it in the living room. Which I don't know why because I can see it as a resource for potential girlfriends? I mean, imagine being downtown and saying "Yo, wanna come to my place and see a live coral reef?" I'm just saying, haha.
But other than that, I plan to do a cheap LED wiring inside the stand so I can see. Want to see if I can hook it up to the doors or a door to make it cut on and off.
Like always, thank you for the help and thank you to everyone who has been helping me!
