Information overload on chemical filtration -please help me decide.

[Reefer Dan]

I have a 28g aquarium only have 1 fish, no corals, 2 nassarius, 2 nerite, and 1 Trochus. I’m starting to have a what I believe to be hair algae growing on my glass (early stages)— in response, I have reduced feeding my clownfish to every other day and reduce my light intensity to 5% for the whole day.

I’m planning to get more clean up crew probably on Saturday and been trying to locate some chaeto to give it a competitor.

My next step is looking at filter media— this is where I have been overloaded with information. I need something that can be used in a media bag so that I can put it in the back sump area of my nanocube.

It appears BRS Rox0.8 is the highest recommended activated carbon and can be used in a 180 micron filter bag? That one seems to be the most forward answer I’ve found.

Purigen seems to be effective at removing proteins, nitrates, etc. to help control food for the algae. (Also hoping this would help with surface scum)

GFO vs phosguard seems to be my problem.
Both seem to leach things, the pros to the phosguard is the size of the beads and it doesn’t tend to “clump” if not tumbled but there seems to be more favor towards GFO. Any advice here would be helpful. Again, it needs to be in a filter bag.

So my first option is to buy all three which is cheaper in the long run or to buy chemipure blue which has all three but I’ve heard people not very impressed with.

I’m looking at a long term solution, not just until the problem is resolved.

Thanks!

 

[xxkenny90xx]

So first thing, your clown needs to eat everyday.

I don't think you really have a problem. I personally do not use any chemical filtration. Live rock, chaeto, and a skimmer are all I use on my big reef and just live rock on my 2 small tanks. A little filter floss works too if you have a spot for it and clean it regularly.

What is making you want to buy a bunch of chemicals?

 

[Oscar47f]

So yeah I wouldn’t starve your fish just to control algae.. that said I feed my fish every other day and they’re fine they don’t need to eat everyday just compensate by feeding a little more throughout the days you feed... anyways you need to test your levels, nutrients that grow algae can be quantified into numbers and from there we can figure out what numbers to try and target and how to get there... I’ve used chemi pure blue and it’s worked great for me, I use carbon and have used GFO but I run that way less often because I have a low bio load and don’t want to strip my nutrients... it’s all about balance and finding it, definitely get your water tested and give us numbers to go off of... many times things will get ugly before they get pretty, it’s preventable but sometimes it happens

 

[xxkenny90xx]

So yeah I wouldn’t starve your fish just to control algae.. that said I feed my fish every other day and they’re fine they don’t need to eat everyday just compensate by feeding a little more throughout the days you feed... anyways you need to test your levels, nutrients that grow algae can be quantified into numbers and from there we can figure out what numbers to try and target and how to get there... I’ve used chemi pure blue and it’s worked great for me, I use carbon and have used GFO but I run that way less often because I have a low bio load and don’t want to strip my nutrients... it’s all about balance and finding it, definitely get your water tested and give us numbers to go off of... many times things will get ugly before they get pretty, it’s preventable but sometimes it happens

I agree with all of this except the feeding part. I feed my fish twice a day and feel bad because it should be 3 times. Sure your fish will survive being fed every other day but that is not natural for reef fish and isn't great husbandry (in my personal opinion anyways)

 

[magicwhistle]

Feed your fish every day.

How old is this tank? Hair algae is a common part of the ugly phase of tanks so the fact you think it’s hair algae, implying you’ve never seen it before, makes me think the tank is newly cycled.

Just clean what you can manually and suck it up during a water change will be the best bet. I wouldn’t go crazy on chemical filtration just yet. Some people don’t run any chemical filtration at all it’s not needed really. However I’m a big fan of chemipure blue. Used it in my prior tank and using it currently (for other reasons though... potential contamination situation) Keeps the water looking pristine but I wouldn’t use it to combat hair algae on a freshly cycled tank.

If you wanted to try that you could set up a refugium. Chaeto will keep nutrients down and it’s easy to export.

I wouldn’t be too worried though. It’ll pass.

 

[Oscar47f]

I agree with all of this except the feeding part. I feed my fish twice a day and feel bad because it should be 3 times. Sure your fish will survive being fed every other day but that is not natural for reef fish and isn't great husbandry (in my personal opinion anyways)

Not entirely true reef fish don’t eat everyday and often not 3 times a day, they eat when they can and as much as they can when available.. that’s why fish are always “hungry” No matter what time they’ll eat... they’re perfectly fine unless they’re high energy chromis or anthias or even tangs (though you want them to be picking algae from your rocks more often than not )... also with the nutrient dense foods we feed they’re getting their nutrition in a lot better than they would in the wild, also depends on what you feed... while I’m not an expert because I haven’t studied this or have a degree on it I wouldn’t say what I say is like concrete or 100% true just what I’ve seen from diving back home and working in aquarium stores..

 

[Oscar47f]

Definitely not trying to steer anyone wrong though and if you feed everyday it’s never a bad things unless you overfeed... just works for my specific purposes and some clients I’ve had over the years definitely not a must and definitely be open to creating your Own proper feeding schedules

 

[SPR1968]

The GHA is probably using phosphate as a food source, and I personally use rowaphos for phosphate control and I use it ‘heavy’ to keep them locked down very low and it’s run 24/7. It doesn’t leach anything, but I’m not sure the others you mention do either.

It works best in a reactor and isn’t as effective just in a media bag

Provided you have adequate systems in place for nutrient removal, you can feed what you want within reason, otherwise nutrients will just keep increasing and you will get issues.

If you can keep phosphate locked down very low at around 0.03 ppm or less, you will avoid many of the problems we read about.

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Not entirely true reef fish don’t eat everyday and often not 3 times a day, they eat when they can and as much as they can when available.. that’s why fish are always “hungry” No matter what time they’ll eat... they’re perfectly fine unless they’re high energy chromis or anthias or even tangs (though you want them to be picking algae from your rocks more often than not )... also with the nutrient dense foods we feed they’re getting their nutrition in a lot better than they would in the wild, also depends on what you feed... while I’m not an expert because I haven’t studied this or have a degree on it I wouldn’t say what I say is like concrete or 100% true just what I’ve seen from diving back home and working in aquarium stores..

I agree, some fish can eat once a week (mostly predators) others eat all day (tangs), but most eat everyday. Do what whatever works for you, but I wouldn't want to steer a new reefer towards less feedings to reduce nutrients (as you mentioned earlier). I do disagree that we have nutrient rich foods that are better than they eat in the wild. I only feed blended seafood made for human consumption and that still isn't as fresh as what they eat in the wild. None of the mass produced foods (especially flakes and pellets) can compare to the food they're eating in the ocean.

OK, sorry for the thread hijack, happy reefing!