Inherited new tank does it look healthy ?

[Spare time]

there's a poster named Orion here who's an anemone gifted jedi

and on a very standout work thread he made on the matter, guess how he regenerated his bleached anemones over and over? (he'd purposefully buy bleached ones from the store on the cheap, come home, do the trick, then re sell or have them shine in his reef quickly)


he takes one snip of a healthy anemone's tentacle and feeds it the the bleached one. not a joke, search him out. amazing.

good luck finding a snip donor but maybe you can among circles if you'll show them the post/search it out

its that zooxanthellae transfer working the magic, I don't even think speciation mattered much we'd need to re discover the post. its on here somewhere.

You can also buy zooxanthellae from phycopure. That might be easier.

 

[chrisdlc11827]

Is that the anemone, in the center of that first pic? It looks way smaller, though the better color is good.

Watch out for aggression. Most long-polyped stony corals have long sweeper tentacles they can use to attack anything they decide is too close to them, so they need to be kept apart.

Be sure the phosphates don't get too low, that will kill corals. You generally want to shoot for at least 0.03ppm phosphates, and 5-10ppm nitrates. Higher levels of both is often fine for most tanks.

Sorry I reapplied to a different thread I purchased a rose bubble tip anemone a few months back and he bleached out and had a gapeing mouth went completely white and disappeared for 2 weeks and showed up again in the pictures I posted earlier
Here is a photo I had when he was starting to get sick
Phosphates are currently .50-1.00 on my api test kit and nitrates are showing between 20 and 50 on my red sea test kit

 

[Spare time]

Sorry I reapplied to a different thread I purchased a rose bubble tip anemone a few months back and he bleached out and had a gapeing mouth went completely white and disappeared for 2 weeks and showed up again in the pictures I posted earlier
Here is a photo I had when he was starting to get sick
Phosphates are currently .50-1.00 on my api test kit and nitrates are showing between 20 and 50 on my red sea test kit

You need a different phosphate test kit. The API phosphate test does not have the precision needed. The lowest it reads is 0.25 and 0.02-0.1 is preferred. I also think the API phosphate test is too difficult for anyone to accurately read.

 

[chrisdlc11827]

Is that the anemone, in the center of that first pic? It looks way smaller, though the better color is good.

Watch out for aggression. Most long-polyped stony corals have long sweeper tentacles they can use to attack anything they decide is too close to them, so they need to be kept apart.

Be sure the phosphates don't get too low, that will kill corals. You generally want to shoot for at least 0.03ppm phosphates, and 5-10ppm nitrates. Higher levels of both is often fine for most tanks.

Currently things in take are looking The best they have ever been since I inherited it

 

[chrisdlc11827]

You need a different phosphate test kit. The API phosphate test does not have the precision needed. The lowest it reads is 0.25 and 0.02-0.1 is preferred. I also think the API phosphate test is too difficult for anyone to accurately read.

Actually just ordered

You need a different phosphate test kit. The API phosphate test does not have the precision needed. The lowest it reads is 0.25 and 0.02-0.1 is preferred. I also think the API phosphate test is too difficult for anyone to accurately read.

actually just orders ati test kit and am thinking about trying the reef moonshiners program have you herd of it ?

 

[Spare time]

Actually just ordered

actually just orders ati test kit and am thinking about trying the reef moonshiners program have you herd of it ?

ati test kit? The icp one?

I have heard of reef moonshiners. ICP is handy, particularly in low frequency water change tanks (or 0 water change tanks) or when an issue is suspected (such as rust from a magnet). I wouldn't go all out on dosiong individual trace elements unless you had reason to believe one has a known function that will benefit your tank (i.e. I would not dose something like tin, rubidium, tungsten, and such, but would dose iron, manganese, molybdenum, etc.). Most of the time, water changes are likely enough to supplement trace elements unless your tank has a huge sink for some element.

 

[chrisdlc11827]

Actually just ordered

actually just orders ati test kit and am thinking about trying the reef moonshiners program have you herd of it ?

Sorry I meant icp the $45 test that goes to a lab

 

[chrisdlc11827]

ati test kit? The icp one?

I have heard of reef moonshiners. ICP is handy, particularly in low frequency water change tanks (or 0 water change tanks) or when an issue is suspected (such as rust from a magnet). I wouldn't go all out on dosiong individual trace elements unless you had reason to believe one has a known function that will benefit your tank (i.e. I would not dose something like tin, rubidium, tungsten, and such, but would dose iron, manganese, molybdenum, etc.). Most of the time, water changes are likely enough to supplement trace elements unless your tank has a huge sink for some element.

Thank you for the info I’m still getting use to the hobby an testing
All the tests are a real pain to reed with little info on them about what numbers are desired and whats too far out of hand I’ve noticed everything much more happy with 10 gallon once a week but I’m having consistent problems with skimmer not pulling any dirty water out or just overflowing clean water
Not seeing the brown water everyone usually shows in there pictures

 

[Spare time]

Thank you for the info I’m still getting use to the hobby an testing
All the tests are a real pain to reed with little info on them about what numbers are desired and whats too far out of hand I’ve noticed everything much more happy with 10 gallon once a week but I’m having consistent problems with skimmer not pulling any dirty water out or just overflowing clean water
Not seeing the brown water everyone usually shows in there pictures

Which numbers are you confused about? There are very common ranges recommended on this site to keep most major things tested for.

 

[MoreReef]

Do you think it would be safe to purchase a healthy one and try that ? Also do you happen to know what kind of alage this is and what to get to eat it ?

I believe these are sponges... not algae...

 

[chrisdlc11827]

Which numbers are you confused about? There are very common ranges recommended on this site to keep most major things tested for.

Safe nitrates number and phosphates desired dkh for optimal coral growth and when you need to dose magnesium and calcium

 

[Spare time]

Safe nitrates number and phosphates desired dkh for optimal coral growth and when you need to dose magnesium and calcium

I can help with that. I'll type out my response later on today but it's much simpler than you might think.

 

[Spare time]

Safe nitrates number and phosphates desired dkh for optimal coral growth and when you need to dose magnesium and calcium

Nitrate

Safe nitrates number and phosphates desired dkh for optimal coral growth and when you need to dose magnesium and calcium

Alk: 7-13 (13 can be pushing it unless you have a high nitrogen and phosphorus input to avoid burnt tips in sps). 8-11 KH is my preferred range these days but I used to run 12.5ish. Higher values in that range may speed up growth (when combined with high flow and proper lighting)

Calcium: 380-500ppm (I have had it higher and currently do and the only main concern is precipitation)


Magnesium: 1280-1500ppm (higher and you might have issues with inverts).


Nitrate: >2ppm when feeding heavily with a lot of fish or coral food. >5ppm in other scenarios. The error range on test kits is why I say 2ppm minemum on high input tanks.

Phosphate: 0.02-0.1ppm (make sure to understand the error range on your kit to adjust accordingly). The lower range is better in most cases.

pH 7.8-8.3 (8.3 is best)

 

[Tired]

Definitely be sure to keep your nutrients present. Lack of nitrates will hinder photosynthetic life, and lack of phosphates can readily kill it. Plus, low nutrients means little to no healthy algae growth, which can lead to dinoflagellates. Dinos, depending on species, are arguably the worst pest you can have in a reef tank.

Aiming for lower nutrients can boost coral color, but someone who's focusing on tank health and learning the ropes doesn't need to worry too much about keeping them low. Just keeping them present, and not completely ridiculous. Particularly phosphate- some people have healthy reefs with something in the realm of 1-2ppm phosphates. (Granted, that's usually soft corals and other hardy species.)

 

[JPM San Diego]

When you say, "Never had a saltwater fish or anemone..."are you saying the tank itself has never had fish or anemone or are you say you yourself have never had salt water fish before? If the latter, you need to find a local reefer who can mentor you. This forum is great, but nothing beats a friend coming over to lay eyeballs on your tank and help you. Also, there are many youtube channels that have a wealth of information. When I first started I bing watched about a 100 hours of Bulk Reef Supply videos. They are not the only ones. I have also watched a lot of beginner how to videos from CoralFish12g, Prestige Reef, Reef Dork, Mad Hatter's Reef, ReefDudes, Reef Builders, SaltwaterAquarium, and a few others. You could sample a few from each site, see which style of YouTube you find most appealing and then watch all of their beginner how to videos.