Inherited Tank...Failing Miserably

Jeff Shaw

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Hi everyone. First post here so apologies if I make a newby mistake.

We bought our home a little over a year ago and it came with a salwater aquarium. I've been trying to maintain but I'm failing miserably. Fish are dying, these dang anemone have invaded and I'm pretty sure I'm the last thing these little guys want to see every morning.

What I got:
  • 60 gallon tank
  • 5 fish (clown, puffer...others?)
  • Dozens of anemone (Grr)
What I'm doing:

1) Feeding brine shrimp (frozen is flats) in the morning
2) Feeding Spectrum, Marine Formula once in the evenings
3) Irregularly changing the carbon / media (once or twice a month)
4) Irregularly cleaning protein skimmer (once or twice a month)
5) Irregularly changing out saltwater (once or twice every 2-3 months)
6) Adding fresh water as needed (once a week at most)

What I need:

1) To know the best way to get rid of these anemone!
2) A regular schedule on maintenance
3) To know what I need to know...what am I not doing and what am I doing wrong?

I'll be going through the "new guy" section of the forums looking for help but wanted to introduce myself and also maybe get some pointers on my situation. Thanks in advance for the help.

Terrible, terrible anemone (Aiptasia I think)
Dropbox Link Image 1: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ab33h6p815voqxr/anemone1.jpg?dl=0
Dropbox Link Image 2: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7mgmkz05xhb307s/anemone2.jpg?dl=0
 
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CH7vMBEwk12JBaAtteZNLwnuK7rhTuaMIDXAgZ_qewM



^^^ so the people dont have to click the links..

What would you lose if you started from scratch?? Sell the fish, clean the tank out, fresh sand, fresh rock, and start with a clean slate?
 
Your pride didn't make this mess. If you haven't added anything like rock work or corals to the tank since you've had it, chances are it was an inherited problem. If the person who had it before you knew much of anything about saltwater and knew about these there's probably a reason they left it for you :P

I tend to specialize in the anemones people want in the tank, not ones they don't want but I'm sure [HASHTAG]#reefsquad[/HASHTAG] can help you with this mess.

Also, I shamefully have to admit I laughed out loud when I saw that many of those things. I'm sorry man, but that's a nightmare.
 
Forgot, Search the forum for Aiptasia removal to get you started.
 
Water changes need to be 10% of the tank volume once a week, or 20% every other week as a general guideline, sometimes larger changes are necessary. The skimmer should be dumped as often as needed and the slimmer neck and collection cup should be wiped out ( I use a tooth brush) like once every week or every other week. Carbon should probably be changed once a month I think, depends on your water quality and what kind of carbon you use. And if you're having any kind of algae problem I would suggest only feeding once a day and make sure you don't feed more than the fish can eat in just a few moments. Adding freshwater would be great if you could do it daily, if not I suggest doing it a bit more than once a week. As far as aptasia goes, I got a coral with some on the rock and I pulled the coral off and junked the rock... No idea how to successfully get rid of them.
 
I agree with the maintenance schedule above. Also I would invest in an auto top off system, they are fairly cheap and will keep your salinity much mor stable. As far as the aptasia goes there are many methods from peppermint shrimp to Kalk paste to lasers. Take a search around the forum and decide on which method you think best suits you. For occasional aptasia I use Kalk paste but with so many in not sure it would be safe. If you go that route I would do a few small areas at a time. With some time and patience you should be able to turn things around. Best of luck!!
 
The puffer and peppermint shrimp are probably not going to work, the puffer would probably appreciate the hors d'oeuvres though. Depending on the puffer type you might consider re-homing it, they need big tanks an adult puffer in a 60 gallon is going to prove to be a challenge in the water quality department.

You're absolutely going to have to top off with fresh water on a more regular bases and as suggested invest in an ATO(auto top off), for $106 it's well worth the investment.

http://www.marinedepot.com/Tunze_Os...f_Plug_In_Units-Tunze-TZ4114-FIDPETPU-vi.html

You might consider having an aquarium service come out and look at the system. Do not buy anything or sign on, report back with their recommendations and create a plan of action.

Welcome to a wonderful hobby. :-)
 
What are the dimensions on the tank? Is it the 24"x24"x24 cube?

A simple float switch for top off may be an even simpler solution than an electronic auto top off.

Can you get pics of the fish? That may affect the method for aiptasia removal.

A regular maintenance routine will do wonders for the well being and aesthetic enjoyment of the tank. For simplicity sake weekly remove algae, shut off pumps and use an aiptasia removal solution and "zap" 25-33% of the aiptasia, wait 10min, siphon the solution and melted anemones out, and do a 5g water change, clean the skimmer cup, and every other week change the carbon. It should only take about a half an hr. Results won't be immediate, but in about 6-8 weeks you should be in a good spot.
 
After several years of testing and research fenbendazol will rid aiptasia :-)
 
Thanks all for the replies!

You've given me some good ideas....I'm wondering what kind of impact taking the rocks out (which have a lot of aiptasia) until I get the anemone under control would have on the fish? That would reduce the number of aiptasia by a lot and give me better access to those that are left. If that's a possibility, I presume I wouldn't want to put the same rock back in? Even if I did some sort of anemone exorcism routine?

Alternatively, I might be able to find a temporary home for the fish while I get all Ender Wiggins on the anemone....I don't want to get rid of them though....family's a bit attached.

Someone asked about the tank dimensions. It is ~36x25x18; I haven't done the math to find out if 60 gallons is accurate, I was taking the previous owners word for it.

I have thought about an ATO kit but the one I was considering came with a 3 stage filter and, installed, was gonna run like $400 so I haven't invested yet. I'll take at look at the linked version. Sounds much more reasonable.

On the water changes...to this point, I've been going to my fish guy to get the water that he filters and salts...haven't done that myself yet. Being ignorant, I'm afraid of introducing tap/unfiltered water into the tank. Generally, do you guys make your own water? I presume you do. I was kind of thinking once I installed that ATO with filters that I could just use it to make my salt water changes....going to the store for water every time (I have 4 x 5gallon tanks I lug around) makes it more a chore than I like.

Someone else mentioned a picture of the fish. Here you go (sorry, haven't figured out the neat way to embed into the post):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/apk5ly88gbm6x0q/Photo Jul 30, 9 12 54 PM.jpg?dl=0 (I attached it to though...or tried)

There is a second clown fish that's not in this picture and also, I bought 2 peppermint shrimp at the fish guy's recommendation. I haven't seen them since the 2 seconds it took them to swim under the rocks after turning them loose though...unsure if they are around or not but they haven't put a dent in the tribbles, as I like to call them.
 

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Oh...and the red algae...I know that's not good....I'm hoping the routines you guys are recommending will help me with my water balance.
 
I have my own RO/DI Filtration system because you really never want to use tap water. And I'm sure making your own water and buying salt mix would be cheaper than buying it from your LFS. Also if your water quality is pretty poor you may want to do like weekly 20% changes until you get it under control. Or maybe even a 50% change and then 20% weekly. And your red algae should go away with more water changes and less feeding as well.
 
I actually expected much worse, I would not classify that as failing miserably by along shot.

It does however looks like two of your fish have Lateral Line Disease. I suspect it's a nutritional issue and the syndrome/disease can be reversed. Most Tangs require some form of marine algae in their diets. Brine Shrimp unless gut loading is basically just potato chips for fish, no significant nutritional benefit. Replace the Brine with one of the more popular frozen foods like Rod's, introduce some nori sheets and the LLD will fade.

The spotted puffer will be fine in that size tank.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+39+260&pcatid=260

The Chromis and Powder Brown Tang need some supplemental nutrition, as mentioned above.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+43+367&pcatid=367

Rather than deal with that head ache of aiptasia I would just remove the rock and give it a Muriatic Acid bath and be done with it. Below is a link for that too.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/muriatic-acid.87487/
 
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I actually expected much worse, I would not classify that as failing miserably by along shot.

It does however looks like two of your fish have Lateral Line Disease. I suspect it a nutritional issue and the syndrome/disease can be reversed. Most Tangs require some form of marine algae in their diets. Brine Shrimp unless gut loading is basically just potato chips for fish, no significant nutritional benefit. Replace the Brine with one of the more popular frozen foods like Rod's, introduce some nori sheets and the LLD will fade.

The spotted puffer will be fine in that size tank.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+39+260&pcatid=260

The Chromis and Powder Brown Tang need some supplemental nutrition, as mentioned above.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+43+367&pcatid=367

Rather than deal with that head ache of aiptasia I would just remove the rock and give it a Muriatic Acid bath and be done with it. Below is a link for that too.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/muriatic-acid.87487/

Well, there you have it. Couldn't have said it better meself.
Soaking a good nutrient dense food in a supplement, like Selcon can do wonders for HLLD.
 
Ok Jeff, there does seem to be some confusion here, so I'm going to see if we can help you get down to business.

An ATO is an automatic topoff unit. It's job is to monitor the level of the water in your tank. When level gets below a certain point it moves clean (0 TDS) water from some type of storage container to the tank until it returns to normal level. Something like this is what folks are talking about http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/tunze-osmolator-nano-3152-auto-top-off.html

An RO/DI unit is something completely different. An RO/DI unit filters your tap water producing both clean RO/DI water as it has filters/membranes for both processes, and it produces waste water which gets discarded. So if you look at the basic picture here, you plug your common garden hose into the red line, the blue line runs to your RO/DI container and the black would run to a nearby sink or out a nearby window. Something like this http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-75gpd-2.html

As was mentioned already you're really going to want to feed some kind of "greens" aka algae to a few of your fish on a daily basis. If you have a local oriental market you can get some there. It's basically the seaweed wrap stuff that goes inside sushi. If you don't have it local or can't find it, you will probably overpay of you get it from a fish store sold as algae. FOllow this link for some examples http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=nori+sheets

You'll also need a way to feed said Nori. You have a couple of options here. A rubber band to a small rock works for some people. I personally prefer these. they come with a magnet and just hand inside your tank. There is a version with a suction cup as well that is much cheaper, but to be honest they are kind of a pain as they seem to constantly dislodge themselves. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/veggiemag-magnetic-floating-seaveggies-clip.html

For water changes many of us use the good old Brute trash cans as they are food safe. The Grey, yellow and White are USDA Meat safe as well. http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Co...sim_328_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NAQSN8CARY7MJ1F75K9 Lid Sold Separate http://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Co...sim_328_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E97GQBX37G0K94MWSZN

So the whole water process goes something like this.

1. Figure out what level you like to keep the tank at and install an ATO to keep it there. As water evaporates, you will automatically refill to that level with the ATO to maintain salinity. One of those 5 gallon jugs you have may be useful here as an ATO container.

2. Whenever you go through 1 ATO container or 7-10 days, do a water change. You might have to use two ATO jugs in a 7-10 day time period, but I wouldn't think you would get too much evaporation.

3. For water change, the day before you plan to do the water change, mix up some fresh salt water. I would start by taking your 5 gallon jugs with regular tap water, 2 of them to be exact. then dump those inside the trash can. Take a Sharpie and mark on the outside of the can the water level. Do this 3 times, marking level every time. Now take that water out of one trash can and mark the same levels on your second. Now you're set. Discard the tap water and begin filling one can with RO/DI to the top fill line.

4. Now you'll need some salt and a way to mix said salt. The tradoff in price here is the buckets is convenient, which the box has more in it. If you already have a 5 gallon bucket with sealing lid, just get the boxes. Also keep an eye out as you can frequently find them on sale on different websites including Amazon http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/instant-ocean-reef-crystals-salt-mix.html . Now you also need something to mix said salt. I personally use larger one but something like this will suffice. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/eheim-compact-pump-1000.html . Any decent pump will do, but I will explain why I use a larger pump later.

5. So you mix your salt and bring it up to a salinity reading of 1.022 (fish only you can mix less) - 1.026 (if you have corals and such). You measure this with a refractometer. These work great http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/refractometer-for-reading-salinity-with-calibration-fluid.html and make sure you calibrate it about once a month with http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-craft-refractometer-calibration-fluid.html . As long as your water change bucket of clean salt water lives inside the house within 10 degrees of your tank water you don't need to worry about having a heater inside.

6. So it's now water change day and you've been mixing your saltwater for around 24 hours. Take any only gravel vac and gently vacuum the sand careful not to remove the sand. Fill your second trash can to the first 10g mark. Make sure you have turned off your ATO before starting or it will try to replace the water as fast as you're taking it out. Saltwater out + freshwater in means salinity is going down, which is bad,

7. Now the easy part and the reason we got that larger pump with the 5/8" outlet connection. http://www.amazon.com/Watts-SVKI20-...TF8&qid=1438339977&sr=8-3&keywords=5/8+tubing . Have one person hold one end of the tubing into the tank, while the second person connects the other end to the pump. Drop the pump back into the water, plug in and drain to your first marked line on your can.

8. Once done filling, swap the pump to the other trash can and drain outside/sink/shower...etc.

And you're done. So if you go every 10 days or there about this would have you changing 30 gallons a month. You can fill the can for SW once a month and only need to fill your top offs in between. The idea here is two fold. It's always a good idea to have some ready made water on hand in case of emergency. This also allows you to simplify your water changes, taking a lot of the headache and time out which usually means you're more likely to do them.

I'll stop talking now, because I may have just lost you and I don't think you asked for a novel but I just woke up and was waiting on coffee to finish. Keep in mind you don't need these exact components as everybody does this differently, but a system like this would give you a good start.
 
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