Initial fill up: Tap or RO water?

[AZDesertRat]

Really nothing complicated about them. You hook it to a faucet using a faucet adapter or better yet a more permanent installation using a garden hose wye on the washing machine cold water supply or a feed water adapter on a faucet's cold water supply valve. You run the waste line to a drain or sink or even store it in a barrel to water landscape and plants. Many of us store the treated water in buckets, jugs or Rubbermaid Brute trashcans and/or hook it up to an ATO reservoir of some sort using a float valve or float switches and a solenoid valve to keep our reef system water level and salinity more stable. Lots of ways to do things and lots of ideas out there I'm sure.

 

[120reefkeeper]

[

OVERVIEW:
SpectraPure[emoji768] 6-Stage Chloramine Removal Super-DI System w/ ChlorKiller Reverse Osmosis followed by SilicaBuster[emoji769] & MaxCap[emoji768] Dual DI stages
Includes SpectraSelect-Plus 90-gpd 99% Rejection RO membrane, 3-stage ChlorKiller Pre-Filtration, 2 Stages of High-Capacity DI, Dual-Point TDS monitoring, Pressure Gauge, & Automatic Shutoff Valve w/ Float Switch

This 2-Part system consists of a 4-Stage "ChlorKiller" RO System w/ Manual Membrane Flush, coupled with a 2-Stage SilicaBuster[emoji769]/MaxCap[emoji768] High-Capacity Deionization System. Together, these component systems create an exceptional 6-Stage RO/DI-System that will provide the end user with an endless supply of ultra-pure deionized water.

FEATURES:
- Suitable for areas with high levels of chloramines or chlorine in the tapwater
- Manual Membrane Flush increases membrane life & 3:1 Waste Ratio produces 33% less waste water
- 4-Stage RO System w/ Superior Prefiltration & 99% Rejection SpectraSelect-Plus RO Membrane - 2-Stage Deionization System w/ SilicaBuster[emoji769] & MaxCap[emoji768] High-Capacity DI Cartridges
- Multi-Point TDS Monitoring
- 0.2 Micron (Absolute) ZetaZorb Sediment Cartridge works in the worst sediment-challenged areas
- High-capacity 0.5 micron carbon block pre-filter eliminates chlorine, herbicides and other organic pollutants
- 1.0 micron Pentek Chlor-Plus carbon block filter cartridge especially designed for chlorine and chloramine removal
- 90-GPD SpectraSelect-Plus RO Membrane 99% Rejection RO Membrane - RO System Pressure Gauge measures membrane pressure level and helps indicate when to change prefilters
- Clear filter housings & durable, no rust mounting brackets
- Housing wrench for easy filter removal
- Tubing, Fittings, and Garden Hose Adapter included



This is what I have and use . It's awesome!

 

[11cmortarman]

thanks for helping me out...placed my order about 10 min. ago

 

[sirmixa]

I use tap, used RO/DI water once, lost color in hammers and leathers in a week, used tap ever since

 

[LIreefguy106]

This may sound like a stupid question: do I make the water and store it or do I make it as I need it. And if so, how do I turn the water off so that it doesn't overflow the bin (I know you said float switch and solenoid). I can't run the line to my tank as an ATO fashion bc the tank and RODI would be on 2 different floors.

 

[LIreefguy106]

thanks for helping me out...placed my order about 10 min. ago

Glad the post helped out!

 

[120reefkeeper]

This may sound like a stupid question: do I make the water and store it or do I make it as I need it. And if so, how do I turn the water off so that it doesn't overflow the bin (I know you said float switch and solenoid). I can't run the line to my tank as an ATO fashion bc the tank and RODI would be on 2 different floors.

I make water and store it in a brute garbage can which is totally safe. I have a float shutoff on it the shuts off when it's full. I also have a small pump and heater inside. I have a separate container that I fill every few days that holds about 10 gallons.

So this is the type of container I use to hold my bulk rodi water . You always want to run larger batches of water through your rodi. The filters will run much more efficiently and will last much longer.

This is the float shutoff.

This is my ATO container that I fill every couple of days from the larger brute can. This is the best way to set up an ATO. Having a separate container for the ATO will prevent your tank from being totally flooded in the event something bad happens. The largest amount of water in my case, won't flood my tank at all.


Hope some of this helps.

"In this hobby no question is stupid but are you willing to except an answer you didn't want to hear? "

QUOTE" M.Schrader

 

[shoelaceike]

I would recommend the Aquatic life RO buddie. With the DI I get 0 TDS and it's like $50-$75.

 

[AZDesertRat]

My RO/DI and ATO storage are in my climate controlled garage. The reef and ATO pump/controller are 35+ feet away in my family room. I ran a 1/4" line through the common wall, under the kitchen base cabinets, around a 6' arcadia door and to the ATO peristaltic pump in the stand. With the Spectrapure UPLC-II ATO system you can be about as remote as you could imagine, it will pump up vertically like 50-60 feet or suck from above slightly less with no issues. One or two floors up or horizontal distances are a piece of cake.

The ATO storage is a 23 gallon Rubbermaid recycling can with float switches mounted 12" apart so the RO/DI must make at least 11 measured gallons at a time to eliminate TDS creep. The UPLC uses a small clear tube in the sump which is connected to a digital sensor so is very unobtrusive and it programs at the touch of a button with many levels of safety built in. In 8+ years I have replaced exactly one surgical grade silicone peristaltic tube which is a normal wear item on any peristaltic pump.

20 years ago I started with a Watts Premier RO drinking water system that was modified with an add on DI canister. I later went to a AWI Typhoon III but was not happy with its performance and DI life. 15 years ago I purchased this:
http://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/RODI-SYSTEMS/MaxCap®-Standard-90-GPD-RO-DI-System
Which was later modified with a piggyback membrane to double production. 8+ years ago I sold that system and bought this to reduce my waste:
http://spectrapure.com/RO-RODI/RODI-SYSTEMS/MaxCap®-1-1-Ultra-High-Efficiency-100-GPD-RO-DI-System
Best thing I have ever done in this hobby, it paid for itself in the second year of operation. It comes with the dual float switches and controller for the ATO storage since it uses stored DI water to flush the system via a microprocessor controller.

My ATO is this:
http://spectrapure.com/DOSING-TOP-O...op-Off-System-UPLC-II-Liquid-Level-Controller

 

[Reef2zach]

My buddies tank. Filled with tap water from the start and ran nothing but tap water and prime ever since. Been up for over year I think

 

[van7271]

I have done it both ways and have seen no difference. Check with your water source. If you contact them they are usually more than happy to give you more information than you need. If the source is good it should be ok.

 

[AZDesertRat]

It is much more than the source. Did you happen to look at the photos of what can and does happen once it leaves the plant or well? Just normal water qualitt degradation in the distribution system should be enough to discourage you. That's the whole reason chloramines were developed.

 

[Jahalu]

I ran my first tank with tap water. I definitely fought hair algae much more with tap. I kept more tolerant corals, so everything did ok, but it was a lot of hair algae maintenance. I currently gave a 75 and use rodi. I see a huge difference. I always thought gaving an ro unit was a big deal and hassle. It isn't. Mine is very simple. I have it hooked to my laundry room faucet and fill 5g jugs. There is a simple float switch to turn it off, but for extra peace of mind, I leave the bucket in the sink. I wish I had used one for my first tank. Anyway, here's my very basic setup.

 

[Tautog]

Hello fellow reefers,

I'm starting up a 90g but don't have a RODI system (and being that I can't swing the additional costs right now, don't have any plans of getting one anytime soon). So the question is can I run tap water to fill up the tank and then let it cycle through my sterilizer and gfo reactor? Or do I need to go back and forth to my lfs and get RO. Any thoughts or personal experience in this conundrum?

Thanks for the advice in advance.

I did this years ago, but don't put right from the tap water as your photo shows. Fill some large garbage cans with water, wait 36 hours, then most of the crap in your water will evaporate off. Treat with conditioner, add salt, never add salt to DT. I did this 30 yrs ago, and it worked fine for fish. For corals don't do it, too fragile. Dump that tap water from your tank, and start over. Tap water = Algae
This time around, I did my research, buy the biggest tank you can afford, a bigger protein skimmer than you need, Reef Octopus 2000, then the R/O, 4-5 gal. per hour, and of course lights, I went with LEDS. My thoughts were to spend the money there, and try not to use a chiller, if you do the Electric Company will love you. Remember, you still need to get live rock, cured from your LPS. Now, there's rock, and better rock, get the better rock. My 180 has 86 lbs of rock, 160 lbs sand, 60 lbs live. My DT never cycled. I'm in since May 1,2015. Stuff has been reproducing for the last 6 months.
Don't get frustrated, if you don't have the money, wait till you do. If not, you will spend more money changing water. I wouldn't start before I had everything. It hurts, because the tanks there. Let it hurt now, or your nickname will be Reef-Killer.

 

[Tautog]

Wow. I was not expecting this kind of response from the reefing community. Thank you everyone! Amongst the myriad of experiences and responses, it looks like I'll be hiking to my LFS and get the RO water. I'll ask if they have a maintenance truck with a hose and reservoir that I can hire and have them fill up the tank for me. But I may have to get an RODI unit if I have any expectation to be in this for the long haul (which I do plan on). The RODI unit seems to be a mainstay in the hobby just like a sump and a skimmer. I had a feeling that was going to be the direction I was headed towards. This may sound like a stupid request, but does anyone have a picture they can share where they have their RODI unit hooked up in their basement? My tank is going to be on the first floor of my home and the only spot I would consider hooking up an RO unit is my basement. What would be the best way to do this. Main water line to RODI to a Brute bin? Any help is appreciated. Thanks again for stopping in on this post, seems like a lot of years of experience here and want to gather as much knowledge as I can. Kudos reefers, kudos.

When I started, my LPS gave me 20 Nutri water, I had made the rest from R/O. R/O needs to be near a sink to drain waste water from R/O. Save those containers, you will need lots of water, I replace fresh water everyday, about a gal or so, from evaporation, no salt added. I make water for a change each month. I pail it to the next room where my DT is, fill a 35 gal brute, and continue to fill my empty Nutri containers. I do everything manually. No float, but a very clean floor, those timers from ACE suck. Lol

 

[LIreefguy106]

Great, I'm looking for RODI units now. So many to pick from. Can't decide [emoji28]

 

[jdemarco]

I would never start a reef without consistent access to rodi. It would be like buying a car without knowing where u can get gas...

 

[Lynn52]

I have mine under my kitchen sink on my first floor with a drinking water kit so I have RO on tap and just turn a valve and I goes through my DI. I ran tubing under the floor to the opposite side of the house in the basement where I have it going to my salt water mixing station, I have a float valve as well as a manual shut off for good measure. I also have the tubing running under my floor to both my ATOs on the first floor also with float switches. I have a total of 4 places my RODI branches off too and pretty much has ended me hauling any water. Each place I run the water I have a float switch as well as a manual shut off.

This is the ATO plumbed to the RODI

 

[Crystalsreef]

I did my initial fill up with treated tap water. Now I use ro/did water from my local grocery store. When I switched I did notice an algae bloom. But I also think that some of that is because I heavy feed. But even with a few algae issue everything in my tank seems very happy and healthy

 

[Dj smith]

My tap water is filtered so I just use it. Haven't had any issues thus far.