So I run a Varios 6 in my tank and its DC and sits on silicone feet none the less I run a 10 inch length of silicone from my return to my manifold. Now the loudest thing on my tank is my skimmer air draw. Does it make a whole lotta difference honestly I have no idea. Maybe a couple decibel difference it also makes it a bit more forgiving to move my return pump around but my under cabinet space is >tiny<.
Re fuge vs reactor. I have an MBR 157. While it serves it's purpose (my water is "too clean" at this point, whoops) if I had the space I would have opted for a traditional fuge. One it pulls every last bubble into it, not sure if it's actually a problem but I find myself burping every other day. I'm also pretty positive it doesn't contribute to the pod growth a traditional fuge does. That being said I recommend macro reactors to anyone who has limited fuge space such as myself. I have about double macro capacity than I would if I were running Chaeto loose in my sump. Plus it reduces clogging since my macro and skimmer occupy the same space.
The sled is an interesting concept. I don't use UHMW in my tank applications but I use it in a number of places in my home gym to protect my barbells and powder coat on my gear.
I'm fascinated with the idea of the return pump being a support. I'm curious if it puts any increase of pressure on your bulkheads when you pull the pump for service. I found out the hard way when I failed to clip my manifold into place and I pulled the pump. It pulled on my bulkhead and created a slow drip that almost flooded my sump because I took a break mid pump service. Mind you, again, tiny sump vs tank volume. I have my plumbing supports spaced from the stand with rubber stand offs for vibration reduction.
I'm curious what are your stocking plans? I've not seen the light you're using in real life. How's the spread/distribution?
This is the first time that I have run return plumbing like this. I usually do run soft tubing to connect the return pump. I do think that it helps with service for sure. Because I have unions at the pump and at the three way valve, I can just remove the "down pipe" and access or remove the pump just as easily as removing a few hose clamps.
My previous setup had a remote sump in the basement. This spoiled me as far as noise goes. Noise was a huge factor for me on this build since I could not do a remote sump this time around.
Too clean of water? This is the world we now live in. Imagine telling someone ten years ago that you were dosing No3 and Po4 into your tank. I like the idea of algae reactors, especially if you do not have room or are not able to run a traditional refugium. I do not understand why they need to be so expensive though.
As for your bubble problem, I may have a solution that you could use. My sulfur reactor has a de-gasing port on the top of it that you are supposed to open as needed to bleed off the nitrogen gas that collects at the top of it. I added a Y fitting to the de-gasing line and tied it back into the effluent line. This allows the gas to escape from the top and flow into the effluent. I no longer need to bleed the reactor.
Perhaps you could add de-gasing port to the top of your MBR 157.
The piping is very ridged even when the "down pipe" is removed from the return pump. It only makes sense that it would add some pressure to the bulkheads if not supported like you mentioned.
To get around this, I sandwiched my clamps in-between two fittings, the reducer and the elbow that turns up. The clamp is secured to the stand and can not move. This locks the pipe in-place and does not allow for any deflection of the return line going up to the bulkheads. I also mounted the clamps so that they are sitting on top of the the stand rather than hanging from it (knowing that the load would be different than the drains).
Here is an example
And installed. Left to right is return, drain, drain, drain, return.
Top down on one of the return clamps
I was going to install additional clamps, but found that it was not necessary.
For the light spread, all I will say right now is that it is very good. I do plan on posting a PAR map and all things lighting later on. I have used these lights in the past and have had good results. I was going to get the "Latest, greatist" thing; however, I do not think that the new lights are 40% better than the slightly older lights that use to be the latest and greatist. So I saved some money here and went with earlier model.
Stocking plans: Not a lot of fish, lots and lots of SPS and LPS, NO PALLYS. They take over everything. I am going for color and growth diversity and want to stay away from most things green.
I only have a few test coral in the tank at the moment. Mostly hardy frags from my other system. You can't see them but there are six fish in there too. I'll post some glamour shots of everyone later.
