Innovative Marine UV flow rate

[Nick Steele]

Okay I am finally caving in a buying a deskto uv for my nuvo20 to help me rid my Dino problem. It will be here Thursday and I am just trying to figure things out.

About what GPH should I look at running through this thing? I can go from 174-326 (cut in half I believe cause of dual overflows) so 87-163gph.

I have about 16G of water and have a pretty bad Dino and cyano problem going on. Have been leaving cyano alone to try and out compete the Dino’s but I don’t think it’s working.


Any help is appreciated!!

 

[EvanDeVita]

It’s important to make sure that the dinos actually get into the UV. I have a cheap one - called the Green Killing Machine or something. It didn’t work and I thought the pump was the problem, but I was wrong. Some dinos aren’t waterborn, and UVs are essentially useless. Make sure your dinos can be pushed into the water column, and then push them into the water column near the UV.

 

[Nick Steele]

It’s important to make sure that the dinos actually get into the UV. I have a cheap one - called the Green Killing Machine or something. It didn’t work and I thought the pump was the problem, but I was wrong. Some dinos aren’t waterborn, and UVs are essentially useless. Make sure your dinos can be pushed into the water column, and then push them into the water column near the UV.

They are totally waterborn as I am cleaning my filter floss once a day and it is riddled with Dino’s. Plus I witness the Dino’s go into the water column at night as they disappear but reappear during lights on.

 

[PR_nano]

Hey Nick, like Evan suggested try to see if your Dino can be treated by the UV but with that said there are additional benefits to the UV. I got the UV Desktop in my Nuvo20 when I first saw what appeared to be itch on one of the fish for itch management. It's recommended to run the return pump in a slow setting so there is more contact time with the water. I have a Sicce 1.5 max about 357 and run it a little over half speed and the UV 24 hours. I started dosing P and N to get detectable levels but in my case I stopped since I have some bubble algae which exploded with the addition of Nitrates. Lately I been dosing Vibrant and Microbater7 and seen some good results. My tank still looks like crap but it's in a much better place than 2 months ago. Best of luck.

 

[Nick Steele]

Hey Nick, like Evan suggested try to see if your Dino can be treated by the UV but with that said there are additional benefits to the UV. I got the UV Desktop in my Nuvo20 when I first saw what appeared to be itch on one of the fish for itch management. It's recommended to run the return pump in a slow setting so there is more contact time with the water. I have a Sicce 1.5 max about 357 and run it a little over half speed and the UV 24 hours. I started dosing P and N to get detectable levels but in my case I stopped since I have some bubble algae which exploded with the addition of Nitrates. Lately I been dosing Vibrant and Microbater7 and seen some good results. My tank still looks like crap but it's in a much better place than 2 months ago. Best of luck.

Thanks! I’m pretty sure I have osteoporosis which is very susceptible to UV I’ve just been holding off as I was seeing good results but not so much now and corals are looking much worse. I have detectable N and P at 5 and .03 respectively still trying to raise p to about .1 but not much luck even with dosing. I’m hoping UV will put me over the edge and I can get back to reefing with joy haha.

Below is what I can run with my pump. If slower is better maybe I’ll drop it down to 174gph for a week and slowly increase it if I’m seeing results

Controllable Flow Rates:

• 1.1: 8W 174 GPH
• 1.2: 9W 196 GPH
• 1.3: 10W 217 GPH
• 1.4: 11W 239 GPH
• 1.5: 12W 261 GPH
• 1.6: 13W 283 GPH
• 1.7: 14W 304 GPH
• 1.8: 15W 317 GPH
• 1.9: 15W 326 GPH

 

[PR_nano]

I think you added a second wavemaker so you could probably turn the return down to the lowest and still have good flow in the display. I only have 1 wavemaker and started to see detritus on a corner when I lower the return pump. I don't think it would be a problem on your setup but you can bump the speed on the wavemakers to compensate.

 

[EvanDeVita]

I think you added a second wavemaker so you could probably turn the return down to the lowest and still have good flow in the display. I only have 1 wavemaker and started to see detritus on a corner when I lower the return pump. I don't think it would be a problem on your setup but you can bump the speed on the wavemakers to compensate.

Agreed. I have a 30 Long without an adjustable return pump. I put my UV filter (also not adjustable) in the back of my AIO, and it worked. I’m sure what @PR_nano is true and will have a better success rate, but my way was semi cheap and without chemicals! Also you’re nitrates are really low at 5.

I would take @PR_nano s advice over my own - he’s much more knowledgeable than me!
BTW PR_nano, I have a new Dino in my tank, and I was wondering if my current plan of raising nitrates and not cleaning my tank will help. The dinos are not waterborn (unfortunately) and I am holding back on a blackout as a lift ditch effort. Any thoughts?

 

[PR_nano]

@EvanDeVita I did limit my water changes. I notice that after performing water changes the Dino were more apparent and it makes sense since you're replacing trace elements that will fuel them. I stopped water changes initially and now do smaller water changes 1-2 gallons every 2 to 3 weeks.

I have Amphidinium which are not waterborne and did a blackout and while it appear to reduce them it was only temporary (1-2 day). On day 2-3 they were back from hiding. I tried peroxide and some other recommendation but have seen the best results from getting detectable N/P, Vibrant and bacteria. I will say that I seen some Cyano which I read could be caused by dosing Vibrant but very small amounts and I been removing it as quick as I see it. Hope it helps

 

[Nick Steele]

Also you’re nitrates are really low at 5.

Interesting I’ve always have had 0 nitrates but detectable phosphates so I figured 5 was a good starting point. What would you suggest I do? I have read 10 is okay but I didn’t want to go too high and shock things in my tank.

 

[EvanDeVita]

Interesting I’ve always have had 0 nitrates but detectable phosphates so I figured 5 was a good starting point. What would you suggest I do? I have read 10 is okay but I didn’t want to go too high and shock things in my tank.

To increase nitrates, stop doing water changes, and feed the tank a little more.

 

[EvanDeVita]

@EvanDeVita I did limit my water changes. I notice that after performing water changes the Dino were more apparent and it makes sense since you're replacing trace elements that will fuel them. I stopped water changes initially and now do smaller water changes 1-2 gallons every 2 to 3 weeks.

I have Amphidinium which are not waterborne and did a blackout and while it appear to reduce them it was only temporary (1-2 day). On day 2-3 they were back from hiding. I tried peroxide and some other recommendation but have seen the best results from getting detectable N/P, Vibrant and bacteria. I will say that I seen some Cyano which I read could be caused by dosing Vibrant but very small amounts and I been removing it as quick as I see it. Hope it helps

It does. I’m actually growing out my cyano as a competitor. It is much easier to remove cyano then to kill dinos IMO