insight
- Thread starter glacierdiver
- Start date
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Russellaqua
Coral Junkie
I agree. One of my first corals was a colony of Ricordia yuma. Most mushrooms don't want really bright light; they'll curl up to shade themselves and will stretch upward if they aren't getting enough. You don't need to feed them either.
Start em low, especially if you have halide or t5, big lighting increase will melt shrooms.
Rics can be sensitive, especially yumas, and dont let the different species touch each other. I have had rhodactis, discosoma, and actinodiscus get along somtimes and not so well other times, and rics dont get along with other species at all.
I would start with discosoma or rhodactis and if they do well you should be fine.
Rics can be sensitive, especially yumas, and dont let the different species touch each other. I have had rhodactis, discosoma, and actinodiscus get along somtimes and not so well other times, and rics dont get along with other species at all.
I would start with discosoma or rhodactis and if they do well you should be fine.
Alpha Aquaculture
Designer Clownfish Hatchery
I would suggest that you don't buy yumas that look unhealthy. Ime they are not as hardy in the general sense as some would have you believe. Yes there will be many specimens that are super healthy and hardy but not nearly all. First issue is the light thing, too much will kill them, especially initially (first few months) and while acclimating (first few days). The next issue is the health of many of the ones being sold by the vendors. You wouldn't even believe the stories I could tell you about yumas dying after only a few weeks waiting in a vendors tank, some of the best vendors! Imagine if these same yumas were shipped, they would have def died from that stress considering they can't survive in the vendors tanks who are supposed to have the best systems. The thing to look for is the oral cone... is it cone shaped or is it gaping real bad... is it just a hole... is it just flat... if the mouth is a cone sticking out and its closed thats a good sign. Ask the vendor if the yuma is wild or aquacultured. Aquacultured yumas do well. Ime a large percentage of wild yumas die, like maybe 30 percent or more. Some of the color combinations do better, some worst. And remember thats not just in my tank I believe its the skeleton in the closet with that species and I will open the door on it.
I do have many many yumas that are crazy cool and I can't kill if I tried, but the larger wild ones that look the coolest have a lower survivability and I would stay away from them if your a newbie because its not fair on the species and this lesson will cost you a ton of money, just get some floridas they are all super hardy!
hope this helps
I do have many many yumas that are crazy cool and I can't kill if I tried, but the larger wild ones that look the coolest have a lower survivability and I would stay away from them if your a newbie because its not fair on the species and this lesson will cost you a ton of money, just get some floridas they are all super hardy!
hope this helps
I agree with these post......Yumas need to be photoacclimation over long periods of time especially the rare color morphs.....I have one right now that just started to come in the brighter light. This is after almost 4 months in shaded/in-direct lighting. Florida ricordea out of all that you listed can handle the most light and flow without the major threat of melting. They can also handle more flow then the others.....The rest are pretty straight forward as the others said.
Alpha Aquaculture
Designer Clownfish Hatchery
Azurel: I have always seen your collection of yumas around. Very nice! If I could ask you a question to something few are willing to answer. What do you think is the survivability of the big old wild yumas upon importation. I fear from experience that it is comparatively lower than most would think. Maybe 30 to 50 percent I would guess.
I would say your right about 30-50% and that might actually be high.....I have some right now but all of the hot pink I have had all have melted, the longest one I have had was a year and that started to melt after my timer on my lights went haywire......I honestly think that some research needs to be done on them much like E. Borneman did with Elegance....Other wise in all honesty they maybe better left in the ocean. I have spent in 10 years of trying to get one to survive long term easily $1,500-$2,000 on just hot yumas of high end colors.
Alpha Aquaculture
Designer Clownfish Hatchery
Same here man. Thousands for sure! Yumas are my first love and I just can't collect them anymore because I feel so bad for the species being imported. I can't contribute to that anymore. The suppliers don't like to talk about it. They post pictues of yumas that will obviously die in their systems days after the photo. They sell these yumas probably knowing they will die during shipping. I mean how could they not know, really. And then the worst part of it is they are not cool about it when you ask them to hold if for a while to let it recover, they just want to push it out the door. There needs to be a regulation on yumas forcing the importers to hold them for an extended period of time increasing survivability, and maybe even a block on importing certain specimens. Its sooo complicated but such a beautiful species, I fear for them.
Thanks for joining the convo here, its a breath of fresh air
Thanks for joining the convo here, its a breath of fresh air
byeung
Active Member
Im still a newbie i'd say. I fed an NLS pellet to one of my yumas bc i thought it was cool watching my shrooms eat and then one day a hermit crab minutes later ripped open the yuma's mouth to retrieve it. I haven't fed a pellet to any of my mushrooms since. But, since my yumas were aquaculture i think they recover from my abuse a lot easier. In fact they're growing really well, and i might start propagating one day.
tampasnooker
Active Member
Tongas aren't very difficult. Mine all seem to prefer indirect light. The happiest ones are growing on the sides of rocks.
Just bought a wild red yuma colony last week. Started it in partial shade and all polyps started shrinking. Moved it to the corner, under a ledge where it only gets reflected light (depending on how clean the glass is...) Every polyp opened up 2" the next day.
I would recommend that if you can't buy riccordea mounted on substrate that you read up on settling and mounting techniques before buying any loose ones. Rics and Tongas seem to like slightly higher flow rates than Rhodactis and Discosoma but Rics can blow away in the current if their foot isn't firmly attached.
Just bought a wild red yuma colony last week. Started it in partial shade and all polyps started shrinking. Moved it to the corner, under a ledge where it only gets reflected light (depending on how clean the glass is...) Every polyp opened up 2" the next day.
I would recommend that if you can't buy riccordea mounted on substrate that you read up on settling and mounting techniques before buying any loose ones. Rics and Tongas seem to like slightly higher flow rates than Rhodactis and Discosoma but Rics can blow away in the current if their foot isn't firmly attached.
