Installation question on check valve

[PedroYoung]

I'm planning on installing a true union check valve on my 1.5" return line from my basement sump. I'm also planning on placing a ball valve above it to allow me to isolate and remove the check valve for cleaning/ replacement. The reason for the check valve is to minimize the backflow into the sump during feeding/ power outages. Seems like I should be able to shut off the return pump, close the ball valve and loosen the lower union on the check valve allowing the water below the valve to drain into the sump. Any thoughts on this arrangement?

 

[Crabs McJones]

I'm planning on installing a true union check valve on my 1.5" return line from my basement sump. I'm also planning on placing a ball valve above it to allow me to isolate and remove the check valve for cleaning/ replacement. The reason for the check valve is to minimize the backflow into the sump during feeding/ power outages. Seems like I should be able to shut off the return pump, close the ball valve and loosen the lower union on the check valve allowing the water below the valve to drain into the sump. Any thoughts on this arrangement?

Should work out. Close the ball valve to remove the check valve for cleaning sounds like a good setup to me

 

[jrwiechman]

Or you could save money on a valve and drill a hole for a siphon break just below the water surface in your return?

 

[Crabs McJones]

Or you could save money on a valve and drill a hole for a siphon break just below the water surface in your return?

The only problem with that is you'll have all the water still in the line above the check valve. what OP wants to do is put a ball valve in there to shut the water off because as soon as he undoes that check valve all that water is going to come flowing out from above the valve to the tank. Edit : got it. Misunderstood

 

[Brew12]

The only problem with that is you'll have all the water still in the line above the check valve. what OP wants to do is put a ball valve in there to shut the water off because as soon as he undoes that check valve all that water is going to come flowing out from above the valve to the tank.

The concept of the drilled hole is to not need the check valve.

When power is lost, water starts flowing into the sump because of suction. When the drilled hole is exposed to air it breaks the siphon and no more water flows back to the sump.

 

[Brew12]

I'm planning on installing a true union check valve on my 1.5" return line from my basement sump. I'm also planning on placing a ball valve above it to allow me to isolate and remove the check valve for cleaning/ replacement. The reason for the check valve is to minimize the backflow into the sump during feeding/ power outages. Seems like I should be able to shut off the return pump, close the ball valve and loosen the lower union on the check valve allowing the water below the valve to drain into the sump. Any thoughts on this arrangement?

Should work. You will trap water between the check valve and ball valve. This can be drained by using something along the lines of an acrylic rod to push up on the check valve flapper to release the trapped water.

 

[Crabs McJones]

The concept of the drilled hole is to not need the check valve.

When power is lost, water starts flowing into the sump because of suction. When the drilled hole is exposed to air it breaks the siphon and no more water flows back to the sump.

Got it. Misread the original post. Change out the ball valve for the drilled hole. It's been a long day lol

 

[PedroYoung]

Actually I'm trying to avoid the draining of the water in the return line with the check valve, not concerned with draining the tank as much (return nozzles will be near the surface). My return lines are external, entering through bulkheads in the back. My sump is going to be in the basement so I'll have 12' of 1.5" pipe full of water I'm trying to not drain into the sump every time the return pump shuts off.