Installing RO Faucet in sink

[BlueWorldJeff]

Looks like they cut the 7/8" piece of the dishwasher drain to have it fit the air gap. It eating go on the end of the disposal inlet. Do I need an adapter now?

 

[theMeat]

Might be able to wiggle it on. Leave end in very hot water for a few minutes, then wiggle it on.
If that no workie get an adapter, or better yet new hose.

 

[theMeat]

Look at the faucets at the link I provided - there's an air gap version as well as a non air gap version there.

Thanks for the pointers . I've built and sold and maintained and repaired thousands of residential and commercial RO systems over the last 20+ years. I've taught seminars on their configuration and function. I'm pretty familiar with their proper configuration. I'm ok with you having a different opinion on the topic .

Yeah hmm look at that. An air gap on ro faucet. Ro unit functionality seminar sounds fun lol

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Could I find a 7/8" FPT to 5/8" MPT PVC? Or should I go rubber?

 

[theMeat]

Would think you could find a barbed plastic adapter

 

[KJAG]

I live in california. Is it still code?

Nope. I live in CA and did a full remodel. (If you’re referring to the countertop air gap hardware)

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Could i fit the hoses on a 3/4" to 1" hose barb adapter? They might be easier to find

 

[theMeat]

Think so, would also think you could get the end of hose, the way it is now, onto the disposal, with a little effort

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

I try the latter first, then get an adapter if it won't go with some heat and effort

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

The dishwasher drain as is, didn't fit on the disposal inlet, but I did get a 3/4" x 3/4" barbed wire that it fit in after submersing in hot water. The other end to the disposal I had to tighten with hose clamp, but didn't see any leaks when running dishwasher, so far so good.

I am noticing, now that I leave the source water on for the RO unit, that one the tank fills up, it makes the same whining noise like the pressure is subsiding, just to have it kick on again. I would hear the whining noise for a little bit when I turned off serve water before, when I just turned on source water to make RODI on demand. I have a check valve right before the pressurized tank but shouldn't the backflow valve on the RODI filter turn off the floor completely until water is used? It did the on and off whining for about 4 hours before I just cut off the source water to the filter. Will it eventually be either on or off? Or will it always have that slow for from the filter unit? Just don't want to run the RO membranes

 

[theMeat]

It’s the hi/low valve that’s making the noise.
When product water is shut off, or when tank is full, the hi/low should take a minute or three to turn off the water coming in, and waste water will shut off as well
Sounds like you need a new valve, cheap fix. You should replace valve whenever you change membrane, as a matter of maintenance

Do you have a tee or water coming from ro going anywhere else?

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

The source water goes thru sediment filter and two carbon blocks, then two 75 gpd RO membranes. From there there is a T to the DI chamber with ball valve and the other side of the T goes to the pressurized tank passing thru a check valve first. The length from T on the DI chamber to the pressurized tank is about 30 feet.

I have a ball valve on the source line and used to use that as on and off for the RODI water, but now I leave it on since it should be filling up the RO tank and once full the back pressure should shut everything off, right?

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Is this the valve that ia causing the noise and needs replaced?

 

[theMeat]

Yes, that’s the noise/valve

Are the 2 x 75gpd membranes set up as 150gpd ?

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Yes, the waste from the first one runs into the second.its the BRS 150 Gpd water saver setup

 

[BlueWorldJeff]

Does the pressurized tank work the same as a float valve? I have a float valve for my ATO canister and it shuts the system off completely when full. No on and off like the tank

 

[theMeat]

Not sure if sink faucet/tank/reservoir has a shut off , think it works on pressure that the hi/low valve senses. Would also think that if it takes a few minutes for hi/low to work on one membrane, it probably takes twice as long on two. Plus the tee and 30’ of tubing is playing into what aso needs to sense

If it were me, i’d take a tds reading before membrane. If lower than 35-40 i’d put tee for fridge and sink there