Instant Ocean ICP Test Results, click to see

It’s been years honestly since I even bothered with them after the initial instance where I actually sent the same sample in twice and got different results. I’m not sure who it was, I just don’t trust those machines

I sent two tests in for my display tank and my frag tank and they were pretty close as far as the major elements that we can test for (can't test for trace elements). My basement refractometer was out of calibration which is why the make up water in the 30 gallon Brute was 32 ppt instead of 35ppt. I just calibrated it with new Brightwell seawater calibration fluid.
 
Who specifically when you say ICP? I've used ATI and Triton with very consistent results. I wouldn't trust icp-analysis.com any further than I could throw 'em though.

I tried ICP Analysis in the past as well as MarinLab (Aquaforest) and ICP Analysis was bogus. That was also two years ago so things may have changes. I am very happy with ATI which is why I have stayed with them.
 
I submitted a new ICP test and recalibrated my refractometer with new solution from Brightwell. ATI is saying my salinity is 33 versus 35. How accurate is their result? I know Triton does not test salinity as I assume the ICP machine cannot test for salinity only total sodium and chloride. What is frustrating is the new results with a higher salinity show lower values of sodium, sulfur and potassium. I did let this new batch mix longer than my first test which could be why the alkalinity dropped but still it is making me question the validity of their test.
 

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Have you thought about changing to Red Sea Pro salt? It has the higher levels, so that way you won't have to initially add Ca to it. I've been using it for a long time now and am very happy with it. I get good growth with it and Aquaforest Component 1-2-3
 
Have you thought about changing to Red Sea Pro salt? It has the higher levels, so that way you won't have to initially add Ca to it. I've been using it for a long time now and am very happy with it. I get good growth with it and Aquaforest Component 1-2-3

Ideally I would use TM Pro Reef. I use IO because it is cheap ($32.99 for a 200 gallon box at my LFS) and allows me to perform more water changes per month than TM Pro. I don't mind adding 1 tsp. of calcium chloride to bump up my calcium in the mixing tub as all salts seem to be missing something.
 
Using the attached calculator, your salinity works out to 33.31. If your target is 35, you're definitely lower.
 

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Ideally I would use TM Pro Reef. I use IO because it is cheap ($32.99 for a 200 gallon box at my LFS) and allows me to perform more water changes per month than TM Pro. I don't mind adding 1 tsp. of calcium chloride to bump up my calcium in the mixing tub as all salts seem to be missing something.
personally i just like TM (pro or regular) because they are much cleaner and don't precipitate out
 
And I'll keep looking at my tank, enjoying it, watching my corals grow, and not spending 70$ more for salt.

Not sure what thats suppose to show us, but I'll continue to use IO regardless.
 
I sent two tests in for my display tank and my frag tank and they were pretty close as far as the major elements that we can test for (can't test for trace elements). My basement refractometer was out of calibration which is why the make up water in the 30 gallon Brute was 32 ppt instead of 35ppt. I just calibrated it with new Brightwell seawater calibration fluid.

I stopped keeping one in my basement, as I had similar issues. Refractometers are supposed to kept in a temperature close to the water temp you are testing. Where as in my case, my basement can be anywhere from 45-65 degrees. Ryan talked about that on a BRS video, and said it was due to the temperature calibration. Don't know if he's right or not, but I stopped doing it. Also my lighting down there is not good. And I have learned that lighting is important with refractometers.
 
I stopped keeping one in my basement, as I had similar issues. Refractometers are supposed to kept in a temperature close to the water temp you are testing. Where as in my case, my basement can be anywhere from 45-65 degrees. Ryan talked about that on a BRS video, and said it was due to the temperature calibration. Don't know if he's right or not, but I stopped doing it. Also my lighting down there is not good. And I have learned that lighting is important with refractometers.

Good tips, I will use the one I keep in my fish stand and not the one in my basement.
 
Interesting, is that how ATI ICP calculates their salinity results?

I doubt it but it's a good way to get a sanity check if something isn't adding up. I dont recall who created the calculator now but it was a trusted source.
 
For what it's worth, I've used Instant Ocean (roughly 3 years in the 75g) and switched to Tropic Marin Pro (roughly 6 months in the 75g) and noticed no difference at all in an acropora dominant system that had nothing added other than 2- part. For the money, the Instant Ocean is hands down the obvious choice with results being equal. With that said, I've continued to use Tropic Marin Pro even in the 150g now because I'm lazy (I used muriatic acid to lower the alkalinity of the Instant Ocean which took all of 10 seconds) and the cost isn't much of a factor for me. I have nothing bad to say about Instant Ocean and other than the cost premium for Tropic Marin, have nothing bad to say about them either.
 
I submitted a new ICP test and recalibrated my refractometer with new solution from Brightwell. ATI is saying my salinity is 33 versus 35. How accurate is their result? I know Triton does not test salinity as I assume the ICP machine cannot test for salinity only total sodium and chloride. What is frustrating is the new results with a higher salinity show lower values of sodium, sulfur and potassium. I did let this new batch mix longer than my first test which could be why the alkalinity dropped but still it is making me question the validity of their test.

Salinity is the summation of all the major and minor elements (trace elements do not matter because they are so low). ICP can detect them, and adding them together can give salinity.
 
Maybe you could mix your next batch at 36 ppt with your refractometer and get closer to 35 ppt. Or get a Hanna salinity checker. Through conductivity, I got lower measurements of salinity, and my refractometers read higher. Maybe that explains why you're getting low salinity.
 
Maybe you could mix your next batch at 36 ppt with your refractometer and get closer to 35 ppt. Or get a Hanna salinity checker. Through conductivity, I got lower measurements of salinity, and my refractometers read higher. Maybe that explains why you're getting low salinity.

I just want to clarify, there's not an inherent reason that one method will give a lower salinity reading than another when measuring seawater

I do agree that all methods need calibration or at least a calibration check, and trying soem different methods and devices can reduce concerns about inaccuracy. :)
 
I noticed that your tin issue resolved. Did you do anything different on your recent batch of salt? Same batch of I.O.? What kind of container do you use to mix the salt? I'm asking because I have been trouble-shooting a frustrating tin problem (18-22) for a couple of months now.
Thank you.
 

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